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What did you do to your BH/CBA Today?

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    I replaced the fuel filter, distributor cap and rotor, put new tires on the rims I bought (195/55/15 instead of the 195/50/15), and replaced the fuel pump for the second time. The first Airtex pump I bought was faulty. Now the car is very dependable, and I'll be driving it until we get snow. Next project is to order a new wheel arch for the drivers side and fix some small rust issues. Has anyone here ever ordered from Klokkerholm USA?

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      Irishkey, I just drove it home the next day and parked it in my back yard. Its driving straight still and everything still works...I'll just make it my project for next summer because of school/work. It only has 108k miles so I would hate to part with it.
      R.I.P. 97 Proto LX> Car killed the deer, but the deer killed the car
      108,659 Mi.

      2003 Mazda Protégé> 140k miles

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        Only 108,000? That thing still has some life left in it. Mine's at 16x,000 and still.... running, haha.

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          Tore all the old stuff out of my front-passenger door. Anyone need any of this crap? The wiring harness is from a 1995 or 1996 (junkyard car, not sure on year, but it was pre-facelift) and all the connections and stuff works. I noted the year because pre-facelift and post-facelift had a different connector from car-to-door, just a heads up. Everything else is from my 1998. Window motor works great, weather stripping has some damage at the top, but still seals up, all the clips (19 purple, one white) are there, window seal has no damage. Any questions, let me know.

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            Does anyone know what size bulbs the JDM "city lights" use? The small ones that go in the headlights. I have an idea to use them in my current headlight setup.

            edit: Nevermind, they're the same as the center/high-mount brake light (921)
            Last edited by irishkev90; 11-08-2012, 07:49 AM.

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              I replaced my front motor mount today, which was shot and absolute garbage and am in the process of cleaning my EGR valve. This should cure the rough idle issue the car has had since I bought it earlier this year.

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                The EGR caused my rough idle, as well. Cleaned it up, lubricated and was good to go. Should probably take a look at it again soon since it's starting to get rough again. Also, clean the MAF with MAF sensor cleaner. I was very surprised by how much the vibration was reduced just from that simple process.

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                  Originally posted by irishkev90 View Post
                  The EGR caused my rough idle, as well. Cleaned it up, lubricated and was good to go. Should probably take a look at it again soon since it's starting to get rough again. Also, clean the MAF with MAF sensor cleaner. I was very surprised by how much the vibration was reduced just from that simple process.
                  I forgot all about the MAF sensor, I've been meaning to clean that too. Is CRC the best brand to use?

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                    I think that's what I used and it worked well for me. I sprayed the daylights out of that thing and wiped the screen and inner walls with a rag. Avoid touching the wire, though.

                    I can normally feel the engine's vibrations in the steering wheel when at idle and after spraying the MAF that vibration virtually disappeared. It was amazingly surprising. Not saying you'll have the same results, but it'll help with rough running and poor fuel economy, anyway.

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                      Over the past two days I had my front struts and strut mounts changed with KYB units, both front lower ball joints, spark plugs, drained the Pennzoil Conventional oil and bought some Pennzoil Platinum, and changed the garbage Walmart Ultimate-X wiper blades for some Anco Contour ones.

                      Next thing to do is get the car booked for an alignment.

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                        May have found a possible replacement for my current Protege after dropping my girlfriend off at school. Dark blue, 1997 LX, automatic, interior looks close to perfect. It does have some slight rust around the rear passenger wheel, seems to be a common problem with these, but easily fixable without having to replace the entire quarter panel like my current car. It also has some minor front bumper damage. Looks like it hit something and the license plate holder cracked the bumper. A few scrapes and scratches on the body, but nothing down to the metal and, again, easily repairable. Rocker panels are solid, new MAF, battery, brakes and tires. Only problem is the guy wants $3,250 where KBB lists it at around $2,500. I think $2,750 would be my max.



                        Anyone else have any thoughts on this? First day I've seen it for sale and I may have seen it driving around every now and then. Going to stop by later if it's still there and take some pics.

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                          Scratch that. It may have less rust, but almost every panel on the car looks like the middle of an ocean. Dents everywhere, even the roof, A-pillar and above the driver side doors. The grille, headlights and turn signal are held in place with screws and the bumper needs to be replaced. If it was less than $1,000 I'd make a cheap offer, but this thing needs a lot more work than I first thought.

                          *sigh* and the hunt continues.

                          HTC Droid DNA

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                            I wound up financing a 2003 Protege LX for the cheap. I wound up paying $4290 for the car with only 103k miles on it...
                            R.I.P. 97 Proto LX> Car killed the deer, but the deer killed the car
                            108,659 Mi.

                            2003 Mazda Protégé> 140k miles

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                              That doesn't sound bad for a 2003.

                              And the more I think about it, the more I'm tempted to call the guy selling the blue '97. The roof is the worst part, truthfully. Oh, and price.

                              HTC Droid DNA

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ID:	1235397 new paint job and mazdaspeed spoiler

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