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How to replace '97 SE thermostat??

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    How to replace '97 SE thermostat??

    I've read that replacing the thermostat should be an easy fix for the engine that has been running hot these days. But the Distributer in my model seems to be in the way (if I'm looking in the right place)...can't find a diagram of it. Closest was a 98 but my layout is different. Anyone have A) a diagram and B) a procedure for DIY? Any help is much appreciated.

    #2
    If you have the z5, heres how i did it....

    take off out your airbox/intake, then unplug all the wiring right there by the upper radiator hose. Basically there's the thermostat. Unbolt the two bolts and it should pop off. Replace the gasket and install new thermostat. Hook everything up and fill coolant if needed. I used to have a pic of where it was, but i can't find it. Hope that helps.
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      #3
      Is it a 10mm wrench to unbolt the thermostat housing? (I'm in Canada).

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        #4
        I don't remember exactly, it was probably that. I know most of the other easy stuff i've done did use the 10mm. Either that or an 11mm.
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          #5
          Maybe not thermostat.....???

          Thanks for your help and I hope you can answer one more...

          my husband is the one doing the work on my car and he thinks now that it's not the thermostat but a malfunction in the "sending unit/sensor on the engine block"...

          after driving it and finding that the dash gauge rises to hot after a few miles, but then fluctuates to normal when going downhill or slowing down, then rises again on acceleration, he's now thinking that the gauge might be giving a false reading due to the sending unit malfunctioning...

          have you heard of this happening before, and if so what might the fix be??

          Thanks again.

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            #6
            I have not dealt with this problem before. While i was driving with a bad thermostat during the winter, the engine would run cold while coasting downhill and normal when under acceleration. That was because the thermostat was stuck open overcooling the engine. If your thermostat was stuck closed it could cause the opposite of my problem (i.e. your problem.) keeping your engine running hot. Maybe. Im assuming you've checked the level of coolant in your system.
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              #7
              i had a thermostat that was stuck closed, in town driving was fine, but when i was pulling a hill it would almost overheat. pretty easy replacement. Mine temp gauge didn't flucuate very quickly and would show differences in acceleration and deceleration. But thats just me, hope this helps
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              96 protege dx - gone :'(
              94 Mustang Gt - Became one with a deer
              02 dodge 1500 - CAI, random aftermarket exhaust
              95 protege dx - now derivable, my new project

              Originally posted by firelizard
              I'm going to go take a bath in $10 bills after my mom makes me a PB&J.
              Me: just wondering if that was a 2500 and if it was a diesel
              Class mate 1: it wasn't mine, but i think it mighta been a 1 ton and ya it was a diesel
              Class mate 2: no way, that truck was way to big to be a 1 ton...

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                #8
                Originally posted by Squeekster1 View Post
                I have not dealt with this problem before. While i was driving with a bad thermostat during the winter, the engine would run cold while coasting downhill and normal when under acceleration. That was because the thermostat was stuck open overcooling the engine. If your thermostat was stuck closed it could cause the opposite of my problem (i.e. your problem.) keeping your engine running hot. Maybe. Im assuming you've checked the level of coolant in your system.
                You were right on! Hubby put on the new themostat no problem, and the old one was sticking...took for a highway test drive and the needle was nicely sitting at just below midpoint without moving. THanks for your help.

                (he's now searching around for a new bolt for the AC line that attaches to the rad....thought it was the rad drain and tried to open but bolt head snapped right off leaving the broken bolt pretty much welded into the threads, God bless him,,,waiting for WD40 to do it's thing to figure out how to replace it before I can get the AC working again....if it's not one thing.......)

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                  #9
                  Confirms the problem

                  Originally posted by bloodyspirit058 View Post
                  i had a thermostat that was stuck closed, in town driving was fine, but when i was pulling a hill it would almost overheat. pretty easy replacement. Mine temp gauge didn't flucuate very quickly and would show differences in acceleration and deceleration. But thats just me, hope this helps
                  Thanks for confirming this...makes me feel a little more confident that we fixed the problem. The local Mazda service dept are idiots--couldn't even give us part numbers but very willing to charge big bucks. My DIY hubby was quoted upward of $300 to have the shop do it. The part was only $25! Now we have to replace an AC connector bolt that snapped off--the Mazda shop wanted $150 to do this one! So happy I married a hands-on guy

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                    #10
                    I do what i can. Your welcome.
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