Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

OBDII protocol

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    #16
    Nice! Yours looks very clean.
    I'm almost done. All I need is the connector, but I don't feel like paying $25 for it. BTW, which one do I need? Male or Female? I think female, but I'm not sure.

    Comment


      #17
      Originally posted by Intruder
      Nice! Yours looks very clean.
      I'm almost done. All I need is the connector, but I don't feel like paying $25 for it. BTW, which one do I need? Male or Female? I think female, but I'm not sure.
      You need a male connector.
      -Kevin
      -90 Miata 1- #80 CSP, '01 1.8L Swap w/ working VVT
      -90 Miata 2 - $2005/6/7 Turbocharged GRM Challenger
      -91 Tracer - $2008/9 AWD Converted Turbocharged Challenger
      -94 MX3 - #8 Hong Norrth LeMons/Chumpcar Racer
      -02.5 Protege5 - The Daily

      Comment


        #18
        okay, thanks!

        Comment


          #19
          Originally posted by Intruder
          okay, thanks!
          NP. Let me know how it all works out.
          -Kevin
          -90 Miata 1- #80 CSP, '01 1.8L Swap w/ working VVT
          -90 Miata 2 - $2005/6/7 Turbocharged GRM Challenger
          -91 Tracer - $2008/9 AWD Converted Turbocharged Challenger
          -94 MX3 - #8 Hong Norrth LeMons/Chumpcar Racer
          -02.5 Protege5 - The Daily

          Comment


            #20
            Originally posted by kcbhiw
            NP. Let me know how it all works out.
            Are you charging money for your software or is it for free? Can you send it to me?

            So far, so good. All I need now is the OBD connector and I'll be done. Once I get it I will drill two holes on the back of the enclosure - one for the OBD cable, the other for the computer cable - I plan on routing the computer cable to the glove box and that is where I will have a connector for the PC. The OBD cable will go straight to the OBD connector under the dash and I plan on keeping it connected at all times.

            I have some pics and a video for all to see.

            Here almost all the components are soldered, but some of the connecting wires are missing.


            This is what the enclosure looks like.


            And finally, the almost-finished product. The board is functional, but missing the connecting cables.
            Yeah, the LEDs are arranged differently on this pic - I f'ed up the first face plate so I had to make one from a CD case.

            Comment


              #21
              Oh, and here's the short video.
              You will see the board initialize and try to sync with the OBD/PC, but since it's not connected it just idles.

              The vid is a zipped .avi file. I had to zip it because the board won't let me upload an avi file.

              Heh... OOPS...
              OBDII_06.zip:
              File Too Large. Limit for this filetype is 100.0 KB. Your file is 741.5 KB.
              I'll have to host it on my own server.

              EDIT:
              Here's the video. Right click on the image and "Save Target As..."

              Last edited by Intruder; 01-08-2004, 12:57 AM.

              Comment


                #22
                For those following my progress...
                I finished the thing a few days ago, but I'm having trouble "talking" to the car.
                Here's what it looks like:



                I get this when I try to initialize the BUS:

                >
                atz
                ELM323 v1.1

                >0100
                BUS INIT: ...DATA ERROR

                >0101
                BUS INIT: ...DATA ERROR

                >03
                BUS INIT: ...DATA ERROR

                Comment


                  #23
                  Originally posted by Intruder
                  For those following my progress...
                  I finished the thing a few days ago, but I'm having trouble "talking" to the car.
                  Here's what it looks like:



                  I get this when I try to initialize the BUS:

                  >
                  atz
                  ELM323 v1.1

                  >0100
                  BUS INIT: ...DATA ERROR

                  >0101
                  BUS INIT: ...DATA ERROR

                  >03
                  BUS INIT: ...DATA ERROR

                  Where'd you end up getting the connector. Also, what year is your car? Are you sure you have the correct protocol?
                  -Kevin
                  -90 Miata 1- #80 CSP, '01 1.8L Swap w/ working VVT
                  -90 Miata 2 - $2005/6/7 Turbocharged GRM Challenger
                  -91 Tracer - $2008/9 AWD Converted Turbocharged Challenger
                  -94 MX3 - #8 Hong Norrth LeMons/Chumpcar Racer
                  -02.5 Protege5 - The Daily

                  Comment


                    #24
                    Yeah I'm sure it's ISO. I have pins 4,5,7 and 16. The car is 1997.
                    I got the connector from Power & Signal --> http://www.powerandsignal.com
                    These are the part numbers:
                    12110252 - connector housing
                    12047581 - individual pins
                    12110254 - holding clip

                    I didn't have to pay anything - just request them as samples and they will send them via UPS for free.

                    Comment


                      #25
                      That's weird that it won't init. The connector pins are in the proper place and you have the correct protocol, so the only think I can do to help you is to suggest to check your wiring.
                      -Kevin
                      -90 Miata 1- #80 CSP, '01 1.8L Swap w/ working VVT
                      -90 Miata 2 - $2005/6/7 Turbocharged GRM Challenger
                      -91 Tracer - $2008/9 AWD Converted Turbocharged Challenger
                      -94 MX3 - #8 Hong Norrth LeMons/Chumpcar Racer
                      -02.5 Protege5 - The Daily

                      Comment


                        #26
                        Originally posted by kcbhiw
                        That's weird that it won't init. The connector pins are in the proper place and you have the correct protocol, so the only think I can do to help you is to suggest to check your wiring.
                        I checked it already - seems fine.
                        I used an oscilloscope to see what's going on at the outputs (K and L lines) - everything seems normal. When I try to init. the bus the output goes high and low, and looks like it is transmitting data to the car. But then after a couple of seconds I get DATA ERROR. Damn... I hate this.

                        Comment


                          #27
                          You didn't by chance cook some of the semiconductors while soldering, did you? Overheating can kill them.
                          -Kevin
                          -90 Miata 1- #80 CSP, '01 1.8L Swap w/ working VVT
                          -90 Miata 2 - $2005/6/7 Turbocharged GRM Challenger
                          -91 Tracer - $2008/9 AWD Converted Turbocharged Challenger
                          -94 MX3 - #8 Hong Norrth LeMons/Chumpcar Racer
                          -02.5 Protege5 - The Daily

                          Comment


                            #28
                            Originally posted by kcbhiw
                            You didn't by chance cook some of the semiconductors while soldering, did you? Overheating can kill them.
                            I don't think I'd be able to observe data flowing through the K line if a transistor was fried. The IC can't be fried - I am using a socket and I checked the voltages before inserting it.

                            Did you try yours on a Protege? Also, there's a new version of the ELM323 now - v2.0. Some say it might fix the problem, but I don't feel like paying $20 more just to try and fail.

                            Comment


                              #29
                              Originally posted by Intruder
                              I don't think I'd be able to observe data flowing through the K line if a transistor was fried. The IC can't be fried - I am using a socket and I checked the voltages before inserting it.

                              Did you try yours on a Protege? Also, there's a new version of the ELM323 now - v2.0. Some say it might fix the problem, but I don't feel like paying $20 more just to try and fail.
                              Yeah, mine works on my P5. I originally built it for my '96 Escort which was said to have the ISO protocol. However, it didn't. It just happens that my P5 does and it works without a hitch.

                              If one of the transistors has failed on an input line (to the chip), it's possible that it could get erroneous data. Obviously, the x-tal is functional in that you get data through a command line. Hmm....


                              Hehe, everyone else is probably trying to figure out what the hell we're talking about.
                              -Kevin
                              -90 Miata 1- #80 CSP, '01 1.8L Swap w/ working VVT
                              -90 Miata 2 - $2005/6/7 Turbocharged GRM Challenger
                              -91 Tracer - $2008/9 AWD Converted Turbocharged Challenger
                              -94 MX3 - #8 Hong Norrth LeMons/Chumpcar Racer
                              -02.5 Protege5 - The Daily

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X