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    95 1.5 manual no start issue

    2So, ill start with a list of things I have already done to the car;
    since 183,000 miles:
    Timing belt
    Serpentine belts
    Deleted A/C
    Deleted cruise control
    Tires
    All suspension parts including alligment
    Plugs
    Wire
    Cap
    Rotor
    Short ram installed
    Brakes all around
    Relocated battery to trunk
    Installed sound system
    Fuel filter
    radiator hoses with thermostat

    Im currently at 193,000 miles and the cars HAS been driving like new till now.

    So now the issue.
    I was diving and all of a sudden the car died. Since gas was low, but not on E. Tried starting the car, starter works but motor will not fire up. Tried like 5 times. So I figured that my fuel level reading could be off so I threw more gas in the tank filling it about half way. Let the car sit for a hour, just in case I flooded it, tried staring, same results, no motor firing up. So, being on a hill, tried poping the clutch a couple times and on the 2-3 attempt she fired up but sounded super bogged down and dies. Gave it another go and it started up with the same result but this time I tried giving it gas and it just sounded so bogged down then died while giving it gas. The car was driving perfect alll day.

    I know fuel is getting getting to the motor.
    I have not yet checked my spark, im inspecting cap, rotor, and plugs in the morning.

    Another thing that happened, yeterday I was having an odd idle issue where after acceleration, id let off the gas and the idle would drop to about 100rpm then get back to its usual idle speed.
    I replaced my fuel filter and did a throttle body cleaning. Started the car up and the idle issue got better but it threw a code (P1010) a mitsubishi V.V.T oil pressure code)
    The code later dissappeared.
    The battery, alt, and starter tested good.

    Can anyone help me figure this issue out?
    I will post my findings for my spark investigation.

    Thanks in advance.


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    Last edited by protoplay; 06-03-2014, 11:42 PM.

    #2
    UPDATE: I got spark going to the plugs. Cap and rotor are clean and still new. CKP sensor tested at 583 kohms which is in spec. The sensor was pretty dirty so im going to reinstall that and see if there is change.

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      #3
      UPDATE: CKP sensor cleaning had no affect. I removed the starter because it seemed like the bendix gear wasnt working and brought it to have it tested and it tested good and the bendix gear functions properly.
      Still scratching my head on this one. Any ideas?

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        #4
        UPDATE: I disassembled upper intake and cleaned it along with the egr valve. I will be testing some sensors in the morning and will post my results.

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          #5
          Sounds almost like the problem I had with my EGR sticking on my '98. Took it apart, cleaned it, lubed it, never had a problem. Could also check and clean the IAC valve. I'm currently having idle problems with my '97. Hasn't stalled out, but really rough and jumpy idle.

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            #6
            Irishkev90, thanks for the post!
            I dissasembled my whole intake system and attacked it with B-12 and made sure that sucker was clean haha! I also dissasembled my whole esystem and made sure there wher no clogs and cleaned my egr valve and made sure it was able to move up and down with no interruption. ì was not able to find testing specs for my EGR. Reassembled my intake system along with the EGR system. Tried starting my car.....nothing.

            I tested what sensors i could that would have any remote chance that it could be the culprit;
            Throttle position sensor Tested at terminals A & C (4.0 - 6.0 K ohms is spec); tested at 4.91

            Idle air control (7.7 - 9.3 ohms is spec); tested at 8.8 ohms

            My car had a two terminal connector añwas unable to find the specs for my egr

            Ambient temp semsor (2.2 - 2.7 K ohms is spec); tested at 2.27 k ohms

            Engine coolant temp sensor was pretty accurate via OBD2

            Adjusted airgap for crank shaft sensor (Specification: 0.5 - 1.5 mm (0.020 - 0.059 in) its about .75mm

            I pulled my fuel line thats connected to the inlet of the fuel filter, attemped start and got fuel to squirt out. I reconnected that, got fuel back in the line then pulled the hose at the rail before the fuel regulator and fuels getting there. While i was in all that i replaced my fuel filter.
            Connecting my OBD2 reader, with everything all connected, before a start attempt, the fuel trim bank 1 reads -50%. After an attempt start it reads 15%.

            The only things left on my table to try that i can think of:
            Fuel pressure regulator
            Distributor ( 2 reasons; camshaft sensor is internal and that may have failed or the distributor itself has failed?)
            Timing....
            Oh! I also replaced my oil pressure sensor and replaced spark plugs and cables

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              #7
              Try testing compression. It seems like a stretch at this point, but you know you already have air, fuel, and spark. Just missing compression.

              HTC Droid DNA

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                #8
                I will add that to my list irishkev90. I just replaced my fuel pressure regulator and........STILL Nothing. $76 gone. I mean, now, every once and a while, ill hear "put put put" at the tail pipe. Ill be renting the tool to check compression hopefully soon.

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                  #9
                  I was just going to add to check the clutch safety switch, but if the engine is turning over then that won't be an issue. What about fuses and relays? Bad connection or engine ground somewhere? Just trying to think of simple things that are usually overlooked.
                  Last edited by irishkev90; 06-06-2014, 11:24 PM.

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                    #10
                    Check the timing, I mean physically check it looking at the cam gears/gear+cog.

                    And if you're going the throwing parts at it path I'd do the disty before anything else.
                    Even with it giving spark doesn't mean it's working proper.
                    Beater=/= Sleeper

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                      #11
                      Yea I was planning to do that next. I was starting to look into the purge solenoid, It is clicking when I turn power on and sounds like it functions fine I gotta figure out how to test it. I do however have a question about two things, I have two relays on the back of my passenger side strut tower under the hood I dont know what those are for, and I have a sensor that is attached to my distributor that my buddies 98 doesnt have what is it?

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                        #12
                        timing belt is okay & hasn't skipped teeth?
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                        1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi




                        I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"
                        he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it

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                          #13
                          Reading from my OBD2 it says my timing is 7° while attempted a start. and spec is 6°-18°. I have to get a timing light sometime soon and make sure timing is fine


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                            #14
                            So..... did some poking around amd decided to see if my computer will thow any codes for me and I pulled the MAF connector and plugged in my odb2 reader and what I get was a P0010 code. This code is dealing with a camshaft sensor. *Currently pointing rifle at distributor*
                            Either the computer has failed or its the distributor. My knowledge about the computers my be different from many others so it has to be the distributor. $155 for the sucker and thats with my discount. Gatta come up with the cash then I will inform everyone the results.


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                              #15
                              I know one of the relays on the back of the strut tower should be for the air conditioner compressor. I think it's the inside one (closer to engine). Don't remember what the other one is.

                              HTC Droid DNA

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