how much for the oem replacement rotor for the lx 97? any estimated price? im thinking on getting just regular ones. Since ive notice PIGEON already had a experience with the two.
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ok, just re-reading this, i saw someone saying you needed new front spindles to do the swap, but midnightblue97, your saying i can just get a mounting peice? is this right?
Mods:
JDM Headlights + Corners
JDM Tailights
1st Gen LX Black Wheels
Shaved Side Mouldings
Second hand 'High-Flow' Muffler
Cone Filter
KYB GR-2's + Perf Lowering Springs
E-Bay front strut bar
Gauge cluster swap w/ Tach + Indiglo gauges
40% Tint on side windows, 20% on rear
and the best custom 3rd brake light overlay...'ZOOM'
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IIRC my rotors themselves were really cheap, like $15 or so each through Mazda Motorsports. (99 LX)Clint/1999 "Sport20"
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Originally posted by txmzdspd2genhow much for the oem replacement rotor for the lx 97? any estimated price? im thinking on getting just regular ones. Since ive notice PIGEON already had a experience with the two.
its pretty much settled though that they are unnecessary
non-cross drilled are cheaper and have more structural integrity and more surface area <-- better stopping power, better cooling ability
none of the racers here in ontario use cross drilled rotors or slotted rotors, they ALL use brembo blanks (what KVR uses BEFORE they drill them)
I did do over 20 laps with my cross drilled rotors and heated my brakes up to the point of having the fluid boil on me... however didnt crack a rotor
so I thought they were alright... however
everyone there was convinced that if I did a comparison test of the cross drilled rotors, vs the brembo blanks... that the cross drilled would crack first
and i trust their opinion because they've been racing for years and years, and that was my first time
the initial reason for cross drilled rotors was to prevent gases from the brake pads from creating a 'film' between the pad and rotor
but pads havent been made like that since the 80's, so really... they're just a trend right now
the ONLY thing that has not been answered yet, that im wondering...
is if cross drilled and slotted rotors are useless, why do porsches and motorcycles come with them from the factory?
Originally posted by JZProwlerok, just re-reading this, i saw someone saying you needed new front spindles to do the swap, but midnightblue97, your saying i can just get a mounting peice? is this right?
but from what i remember, i believe that the spindle is the mounting piece... its all one big hunk of metal
i dont know suspension terminology well at all, my apologies
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Originally posted by IntruderI was reading an article on light weight rims at tirerack.com and I remember something like this: Unsprung weight is generally the stuff that is not supported by the car's suspension.
it's the stuff that moves when the suspension moves.... all that weight, including half the weight of the spring is considered to be unsprung.
also, porsche sells them because it's "cool". there was an article by a porsche engineer confirming it.
another thing, cross-drilling does increase surface area, but it reduces mass, which cancels out the effect of more surface area."Never run out of real estate, traction & ideas at the same time"
-93 MR2, 129 ES
ClubProtege.com Tech Articles
Originally posted by WTFRemember low compression makes more space for AIR, HEEELLOOOO!
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Originally posted by JZProwlerok, just re-reading this, i saw someone saying you needed new front spindles to do the swap, but midnightblue97, your saying i can just get a mounting peice? is this right?
B
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ok, thanks. i didnt think there could be brackets, everything ive worked with mounted straight to the spindle, but you never know right? tomorrow ill be going out and checking prices and seeing how much this may cost me if i buy new
Mods:
JDM Headlights + Corners
JDM Tailights
1st Gen LX Black Wheels
Shaved Side Mouldings
Second hand 'High-Flow' Muffler
Cone Filter
KYB GR-2's + Perf Lowering Springs
E-Bay front strut bar
Gauge cluster swap w/ Tach + Indiglo gauges
40% Tint on side windows, 20% on rear
and the best custom 3rd brake light overlay...'ZOOM'
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i would like to make this thread active again. i read in the first page of this thread about what bruce said. it is not enough that you find a 1st gen LX but that LX has to have a DOHC engine so that it'll have rear disc brakes. i wasnt doing a lot today and decided to stop by a local JY and to my amazement it had a black 1st gen LX and since i read about this thread a long time ago looked immediately at the rear and had rear disc brakes and the vaunted BP DOHC engine.
if it is not too much to ask. can someone pls just list the parts i need to take from the 1st gen to make this swap work on our 2nd gen.
btw, if i do go ahead with this i will also get the front spindles, caliper, and rotor of the 1st gen.
i hope this thread could be a sticky as well.Last edited by beetle_orange; 04-13-2005, 11:55 PM.
1996 1.5L Mazda Protege DX MTX
Mods:
DX converted to an LX (F & R seats and All Power), 2" Exhaust from the Catback, EuroReverse Glow Gauges, JDM Clear Side Markers, 17" MB Motoring Rims, K&N air filter 33-2134, All Clear Lenses, Front Strut Bar, MS Sideskirts, JDM Taillights, JDM Turbo Diesel Hood Scoop, OEM Door Visors, and Ducktail.
http://www.cardomain.com/id/beetle_orange
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