Front passenger brake problems

[irishkev90]

If anyone remembers me talking about replacing the passenger's side CV axle about a year ago, my dad and I also replace the front brake pads. Less than a year, and a few thousand miles, later, the passenger's side pads were virtually gone. The inside pad was, well there was no pad, and the outside had maybe a millimeter or 2 left. The driver's side? Looked brand new. So I replaced both sets of front pads, but the passenger's side was always way hotter after driving and also stank like, well, burning pads. Turns out the spring came loose somehow and rubbed on the edge of the disc until it snapped. Got new springs and pins from Pepboys, hoping to solve my problem. Changed both sides. Didn't solve the problem. Still nothing wrong with the driver's side, but passenger's side still stank and was way hotter. So I took out 2 shims from behind the inside pad, hoping this would work somehow. The only change was an increase in squeaking. The inside of the passenger rotor is slightly grooved, probably from when there was no pad, but my dad said it wasn't in immediate need of replacing. He owned an auto body/mechanic shop way back when, so I trust most everything he says.

I've never disconnected the brake lines so I never had to bleed the system, so there shouldn't be any air in the lines. Thinking maybe I should replace the rotors. If that doesn't work I'll change the calipers. I still have the spring from the driver's side which I'm going to stick on the passenger's side tomorrow, maybe two springs will hold the pads away from the rotor better than one? Not sure really, just brainstorming/thinking out loud.

Has anyone else had a similar problem or know of a solution? Throw out any ideas you have, and thanks.

[irishkev90]

Bump for help. I can roast marshmallows over this thing, it gets so hot.

[3ni_tricksta]

are your sure your caliper isn't seized?

[MazdaNoob]

caliper isnt releasing fullydragging the pad on the rotor 24/7. that + i wonder if all the heat is doing wonders to the wheel bearing on that side as well

[irishkev90]

Yeah, my dad messed with it yesterday and said I need a new caliper. Thanks for checking in though guys.

[1Mazda323Fan]

Since you'll have to disconnect the brake line to replace that caliper, now would be a good time to replace the brake fluid, especially since you've been roasting the FR pads. You should really be replacing it every 2-3 years anyway. Best bet is to just crack the bleed screws on all 4 corners and let it drip out. Do NOT let the master cylinder go empty. Turn a bottle of brake fluid (DOT 3 or 4, doesn't matter) over the M/C and let it bleed through, while keeping an eye on the level in the M/C. When it comes out clear(-ish, depending on the fluid you buy) from the screws, you have new fluid in your lines. Close the screws back up and bleed one corner at a time to get any air out.

[irishkev90]

Easier said than done I think, lol. My dad wanted to bleed the system the other day, but everythings so rusted the bleed screw wouldn't come loose. He didn't want to snap it so he basically just said screw it and get a new caliper. I get paid Friday, should be around $300, So I plan on changing the calipers, rotors and rear brake shoes along with the fluid. Way past due for an oil change also, any suggestions on what oil to use? The engine has a little over 120,000 miles, and I'll be putting another 400-500 on it this weekend, going out to western New York for a wrestling show.

[1Mazda323Fan]

Check the other bleed screws. If they come loose, change the fluid. If not, it shouldn't be an issue. Just make sure the new caliper gets bled properly. Otherwise, many fun things will happen. As for the oil, I'd say use what you've been using. If you're looking to change, I suggest Castrol. There are other good ones out there, like Valvoline, but I've always used Castrol (until my current car, which gets Mobil 1 synthetic). For the miles you have on your car, a 10W-40 would be my choice, as it's thicker and can slow down leaks. For the winter time, thin it out to at least a 10W-30, probably 5W-30 where you live. If you go to thick in the winter, the oil can actually get too thick to where the car won't start.

[irishkev90]

I think the manual says 5W30 in winter and 10W40 the rest of the year, something like that. My dad had the oil changed when he took it to get it inspected (I was working) so I have no idea what's in it right now.

[3ni_tricksta]

don't run 5w30 in your car; it's mostly for fairly new cars.
it'll burn way to quickly .. it's recommended for winter cause it's alot thinner.

just run 10w30 all year round and shud be fine..

[irishkev90]

I know the differences, I was just restating what the manual said. Any suggestions on what brand?

[3ni_tricksta]

whatevers on sale!
ahaha;

i usually put castrol gtx high mileage;
mobil1 is pretty good as welll

and some say it's all the same ****

[irishkev90]

lol, sale stuff would be nice, but I have a job now so I can afford a little bit of luxury here and there
And that's 2 for Castrol so far. I was thinking about using GTX anyway, thank you for concurring lol.

[1Mazda323Fan]

Unless you've been using synthetic since the car (or engine, at least) was new, don't start now. It'll just blow past everything in your engine and burn off/piss out everywhere. I'd just use a regular conventional oil like Castrol, Valvoline or Pennzoil (it's not that awful bad). I'd recommend against Quaker Sludge...I mean State. It got that nickname for a reason. Oh, and near as I can tell, high mileage oil is a waste of money. Near as I can tell it doesn't do anything more than regular oil. A better bet would be to sub out a quart of oil for a quart of Lucas at every oil change, since Lucas is thick enough to actually do something. Whatever you pick, though, stick with it. Engines tend to like it better when they get one type of oil consistently.

[irishkev90]

Good info, thanks for that. I'll keep it in mind.