Jeffs MSP GTR Build

[FE3-323]

i don't believe that any of the BP's really need a colder plug. MAYBE* and thats a big maybe- once you get into the 25+ psi range.
simply put. there are more effective ways to tune your spark system.
having a strong spark delivery is key. why not drop in COP's?
and i wasn't recommending .030 i was saying DO NOT go any smaller then that.
Im still using the stock coil & BP wires on my FE3 (11+:1 comp ratio) with iridium 6-range plugs @ .042 never have i ran into any spark issues.

[vtec-this]

first off let me apologize for the crappy video, I recorded it on my cell which was just hanging from my neck for most of the vids.

i ended up spending quite a bit more time on the dyno than I thought I would. (most of the morning in fact)



The guys at Steeda were a real pleasure to deal with and I would definitely recommend them to anyone looking to dyno their car. I can’t stand shady shops and these guys seemed more legit than any other shop ive been too.

GT500s, SVT Mustangs, all sorts of amazing cars there getting tuned that make my car seem like a turd lol














Before I went to the dyno I did several pulls around 16psi on the street and the clutch was just starting to slip.

I figured if I droppped the boost a bit on the dyno I would be in good shape.

In the first part of the vid we start off by trying to run 15.2psi and the clutch lets go right before 5000rpm. We confirmed 217whp before the clutch let go and the rpms jumped.

Luckily the steeda operator was smart enough to back off right away once the clutch slipped.

After that we dropped the boost .5 psi and tried again. First doing a pull to try and set the boost controller, then we would hit record and follow it up with another pull. the clutch would slip and we would repeat the process.
Running so many back to back pulls trying to find a boost level that wouldnt cause the clutch to slip was putting a toll on the cooling system, and more than once we had to stop and let it cool down a bit before starting again.

In the last part of the video you can actually see my overflow dumping its guts on the dyno right after my final pull.

It was a dumb idea to show up with my winter antifreeze 50/50 mix and only 1 cooling fan. Ill be running much more water with water wetter the rest of the summer.

Long story short we got tired of trying to get a 13+psi run in as the clutch just kept slipping(though the car was making more power below 5000rpm then I did on my best complete run at 10-12psi), so I set the boost controller to 12psi and we did the final 2 pulls.

According to my datalog the boost did not hold too well (it fluctuated from 10psi-12psi for most of the recorded run.) as we literally reset the controller, did a quick run through 3rd to try and get a quick setting before overheating, then i instructed the operator to just do the pull in 4th and try to get a good reading before the car overheated again.

AFRs were always safe in the 11.5-12.5 range under boost, but they can obviously still use some work.
You can see from the fluctuation of the dyno sheet the boost going up and down from 10-12psi.






Final number was 216whp on 91 octane running 10-12psi on the mustang dyno.

You can bet I will be going back with a fresh clutch looking to run over 1bar by the time summer hits.

Overall it was a great experience going to Steeda. They let ME do things the way I wanted them done, I felt like I was in control of everything the whole time I was on the rollers and their onsite operator/tuner was a really nice and knowledgeable guy.

All in all, disappointing that the clutch didnt hold well enough on the dyno to record a 15+psi run, but still satisfying to know Im on the right track with the tune.

[bogaut]

what clutch are you currently running?

[MazdaNoob]

sucks about the clutch!

you are running MS right ? Steeda didnt have any issues with it? familiar with it ?

[Mazda_Powered]

great numbers man!! any idea of the clutch kit you're going to run next? I might suggest one for the KL 2.5 engine, uses a larger friction disk (225mm) so it'll hold more power and take more heat.

[bomdoutscort]

Congrats on the numbers.

[vtec-this]

thanks guys

what clutch are you currently running?

clutchmaster stage 2 miata. i bought it about 3 years ago it is a 6 puck clutch.

you are running MS right ? Steeda didnt have any issues with it? familiar with it ?

the tuner there knew what it was and had seen it before, but I handled all tuning. They charge you extra if you want them to tune your car, and from what I understand they are mostly into SCT ford tuning, though the guy could probably tune anything if you showed him a target afr table, a fuel table and a spark table. he seemed really bright and spends his time tuning 500+hp musclecars so im sure he was probably doing his best not to laugh at me. after seeing some of the other cars in the shop my first question was "how low can your dyno measure?" lol

great numbers man!! any idea of the clutch kit you're going to run next? I might suggest one for the KL 2.5 engine, uses a larger friction disk (225mm) so it'll hold more power and take more heat.

ya this is where I screwed up. I bought the clutch at the same time as the E153 adaptor plate. The reason I picked this clutch is because the how-to for the E153 said that you need to use a BP clutch with a toyota disc. I figured this meant that I had to use only a BP clutch and didnt want to just guess and hope it would work with a KL clutch. years later and Im no closer to doing the E153 swap as my current EGT trans is still holding up good and realizing I probably should have gone the KL clutch route.

Which KL clutch do you guys recommend that could hold say 300-330ishwhp and not be terrible in traffic? Not that I expect this motor to ever produce 330whp on this egt motor, but I would want to transfer it onto the next motor with the gtr bottom when this one eventually wears out.

[vtec-this]

New house is almost done!

I have not had a place to do any serious wrenching since October so progress lately aside from hitting the dyno has been pretty much Nil.

Cannot wait to rip the entire car apart.

New clutch, tucked harness, revised crossmember, additional V bands for easily removing the exhaust, new suspension and all sorts of other stuff to do.

[Mazda_Powered]

hey sorry about not replying about the clutch info, I'd go with South Bend clutches, they have some serious hardware for serious numbers and full face friction disk too!

http://www.dxdracingclutches.com/html/626.html

[vtec-this]

any idea how rough the endurance clutches would be to use on the street? the $330 stage 2 endurance rated at 325Ft-Lb looks about right..

[Mazda_Powered]

I've heard they have GREAT customer service, so maybe give them a ring and ask them. I have no clue personally. I've just heard nothing but amazing things from them though.

[vtec-this]

and then I see these for less than $150 shipped to me in canada..hmm

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/F1-STAGE-3-CLUTCH-KIT-93-02-MAZDA-626-ES-LX-93-97-MX-6-LS-FORD-PROBE-GT-2-5L-V6-/151045031688?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item232afc4708&vxp=mtr&_uhb=1

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/XTR-RACING-STAGE-3-CLUTCH-KIT-93-02-MAZDA-626-LS-MX-6-ES-LX-FORD-PROBE-GT-2-5L-/140982622113?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20d33817a1&vxp=mtr&_uhb=1

and you guys are sure I can mount the KL clutch to my BP flywheel without any issues ? cause for $150 I dont think I can go wrong here.

[FE3-323]

i've ran the ebay F1 clutch you see there. i would personally give it a thumbs up. for both pedal/clamping force & smoothness of engagement.

[vtec-this]

awsome! any idea how much power you were putting down with it?

[FE3-323]

~220whp & also have one in the KL mx3