Jeffs MSP GTR Build

[vtec-this]

im thinking im going to have to go and get flywheel resurfaced now that I am switching to KL clutch as I would imagine the new surface area being gripped by the KL clutch is going to be a different height than the worn section of the flywheel from the bp clutch. ****ty cause it looked to be in fine shape otherwise last time I had the trans off.

Any recommendation on how much I should have removed from the flywheel?

Does anyone have a definite answer as to whether or not a KL clutch can be used with the E153 swap? I wonder if I should have other mods that John noted in his E153: How to write up done to the flywheel at same time as I will be eventually using my e153 adaptor plate with toyota trans..

[FE3-323]

might as well go all out. and there shouldn't be any reason why the clutch wont work. assuming the toyota spline is the same???

[vtec-this]

i know i will need to use a toyota disc, hoping KL pressure plate isnt larger in some other way than the bp that would cause interference with yota trans

Clutch/Flywheel - Use your stock BP flywheel, but have the "ring" on the back machined off, and have the face and step cut back an extra ~0.1". The more you machine off the face, the less grinding you will have to do in the bellhousing. For the clutch, use whatever BP pressure plate you wish, combined with a disc for a 1993 4 cylinder Toyota pickup truck. Your best bet is to use the same brand for both the disc and pp so you don't have to worry about adjusting the flywheel step height for different disc thicknesses. Use a camry v6 throwout bearing. There is no pilot bearing, and you will need to remove the existing one from your flywheel. For the clutch slave cylinder, use the camry one. You can bend a new (standard 3/16") brake line straight from the slave to your stock mazda clutch hose.
With a FWD clutch and flywheel there will be an interference issue between the pressure plate and the inside of the bellhousing. You will need to take the trans on and off the engine several times, painting the bellhousing with dykem blue or spraypaint every time, until you grind it down enough to clear. Somewhere i have a photo that shows where i had to grind, i'll post it if i can find it. The awd flywheel/clutch has a slimmer profile and may not have this problem.

been looking for more info on this for a while now. what i am hoping is that i can just do the step and face cut back 0.15 so that I dont have to mod e153 as much with grinder. just not sure about the KL clutch pressure plate dimensions vs bp yet. i guess i will know pretty soon when i pull the current trans and compare them lol

[vtec-this]

Got the flywheel done at CDC here in toronto. They are at 30 Baywood Drive, M9V 3Z2. 416-742-0003

Seems like they did a great job and only charge $40 which was about half of what everyone else I called wanted
in milton/brampton.

Actually got a compliment from their tech (manny) on my driving. The flywheel and pressure plate of my old clutch were worn out, but

the disc itself was still in one piece, the springs were fine, no signs of heat damage or extreme abuse. Considering I had 3 years of fun with the clutch I guess it was not

too bad afterall, there was just no way it could hold anymore as the flywheel/PP were so worn.

I guess it was just daily wear and tear. He mentioned there was certainly nothing "defective" about the clutch and that 3 years ~70,000KMs of mixed driving, the setup was actually pretty good all things considered. I drive across Brampton every day for work in bumper to bumper so I guess I did a good job not chewing up everything prematurely.

which gives me some good piece of mind for this stage 3 I just installed. I guess if this one gives me 3 years as well I have nothing to complain about considering what these f1 clutches cost.




I did NOT get the flywheel machined for the E153 swap. It would have been another $65 and their tech mentioned that I only have enough material left to machine this flywheel one or two more times max so it didnt seem worth it to get this one ready for the E153 if I can only reuse it once safely. I will just get a spare flywheel sometime and prep that for the E153. At least I know a place to get it done now.

today marked the end of the 500 mile break in period..

went out for lunch, set boost for 17psi.

did three hard pulls.

No alternator BS, no slipping clutch BS, just FWD rocket ship action.

Im very happy with it

Will be trying to make the trip back to steeda to see what she can do on the mustang dyno now that I have a clutch that holds before I leave for my summer vacation.



Can I get peoples opinions on max WHP I can SAFELY pull with RX7 550cc injectors with stock EGT FPR (I believe is 43.5psi) and MSP fuel pump.

From what I read on miata boards anywhere from 250-300whp depending on whos talking and whether they are running 45psi FPR or 60psi FPR.

My calcs work out that I am at ~80% DC at 250whp..but then again every calculator I use says RWHP and RWD has a higher drivetrain loss..so maybe just north of 250whp is "safe" from what I can work out.

I think I asked sometime earlier or in another section of CP but I cant remember.

I havent seen anything leaner than 12.5:1 under boost, but I might get silly and up the boost a bit on the dyno and figure I should leave a bit of headway as I dont like to idea of 100% duty cycle.

According to the calculators on a few internet sites, I cant do 300whp safely without bumping to 60+psi with a AFPR or larger injectors..

Thoughts/Opinions on this?

Sort of a strange situation, I mean the real question is if I hit something like 255whp on my first pull do I just back off the dyno and let myself be happy with it, or should I push it a bit more....hmmm..I dunno just thinking outloud

[jinx]

Hows the z6 mount holding up btw?

[vtec-this]

lol the z6 mount is hanging in there. its torn but still working. I was planning on filling it myself if it gets any worse but for now Im happy with it.

[jinx]

Damn.. it tore already? WTF? BJ stuff is made sooo cheapo. :\ Someone needs to produce a solid version of that mount already.

[vtec-this]

Can I get peoples opinions on max WHP I can SAFELY pull with RX7 550cc injectors with stock EGT FPR (I believe is 43.5psi) and MSP fuel pump.

From what I read on miata boards anywhere from 250-300whp depending on whos talking and whether they are running 45psi FPR or 60psi FPR.

My calcs work out that I am at ~80% DC at 250whp..but then again every calculator I use says RWHP and RWD has a higher drivetrain loss..so maybe just north of 250whp is "safe" from what I can work out.

I think I asked sometime earlier or in another section of CP but I cant remember.

I havent seen anything leaner than 12.5:1 under boost, but I might get silly and up the boost a bit on the dyno and figure I should leave a bit of headway as I dont like to idea of 100% duty cycle.

According to the calculators on a few internet sites, I cant do 300whp safely without bumping to 60+psi with a AFPR or larger injectors..

Thoughts/Opinions on this?

Sort of a strange situation, I mean the real question is if I hit something like 255whp on my first pull do I just back off the dyno and let myself be happy with it, or should I push it a bit more....hmmm..I dunno just thinking outloud

[bomdoutscort]

Dude, im pretty sure 550cc are good for 320 whp. 460's are giving people like boosted escort 280 whp, and this is on a gtr ecu at fpr psi.

[vtec-this]

wow sounds risky to be pushing 460s that hard.

[vtec-this]

I guess really it comes down to "how many turns to the right on the EBC knob would a sane person make" at this point.

The new clutch seems to hold 17psi fine and I have kept the AFRs are at a steady 11.5:1 after 15psi.

Part of me says to just up it a psi or two at a time until 20+psi is reached and see what happens. worst case scenerio I clean up the mess on the dyno, apologize to the guys at steeda and start getting the gtr motor ready to swap in.

The other part of me says "any normal person would be more than happy with 17psi from a big turbo in a 2600 pound car so stfu and just enjoy the car as is"..

Decisions decisions..

[CODY004WD]

Take it up! Atomic was pushing 2 bars from that holset on 460's. Keep an eye on AFRs and an ear to knock, you'll be fine.

Also, tuning issues CAN be non-violent, as in the case of my BP which melted 4 pistons, and still ran and drove fine, even though 4% of my pistons had liquified and spit out the exhaust, so there may be no mess to clean. (Although your turbo may not like molten pistons too much)

[bomdoutscort]

here is a fs thread that therieldeal posted back in the day. Read it, its about the 550cc injectors

http://www.wihandyman.com/forum/showthread.php?40799-GI-550cc-s5-rx7-injectors&highlight=

[MazdaNoob]

Turn it up. This is still the fitting mule motor isn't it? The one you were really only using to mock up the swap? Lol.



On a side note. I want a ride!


Sent from my iPhone5
using Tapatalk

[Boosted Escort]

atomic is running without the fpr solenoid he said that raised the fuel pressure. I don't understand how the solenoid works so I can't tell you.