Jeffs MSP GTR Build

[vtec-this]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PbDwBCG-Dg0

This is a 2003 MazdaSpeed Protege with the original engine removed. It now has a 1.8l BP mazda engine sourced from a 91 Escort GT. It has Individual Throttle Bodies, 4-1 Header, 3 Inch Exhaust, MegaSquirt ECU, Redline bumped to 7800RPM. It will be tested for another week or two before the turbocharger is put in place. The car is making around 110WHP naturally asperated and is loud as hell with no turbo on the big exhaust.

[Mazda_Powered]

posted on youtube, but ya looks like it goes pretty good for 110whp...

[vtec-this]

well without a dyno I dont wanna make any big claims. I figure a well tuned BP with no AC and no PS has gotta be putting out at least 110whp so thats all I am gonna claim for now.

[Mazda_Powered]

sounds like a fair assumption to me man lol, usually BPs on standalone will net 10% more power (n/a)...so 110-120 doesn't seem out of reach at all.

[MD323]

**** I did 119 on a mustang dyno stock ecu 18 deg intake and header back exhaust.


but I do live in SFL so ....

[vtec-this]

well i have enough confidence in the car now that I sold my DD (chevy malibu) and I am back to using the msp as my daily. Finished an oil change the other day and the oil looked cleaner than my fsde oil after 3000KMs. Its amazing how the msp running so rich ruins its oil.

anyways, the car is driving good. I am contemplating adding a 5th engine mount as even with the rest of the mounts solid I am still feeling a bit of movement which I am not too happy about.

the 1st gen drivetrain does not use the 3rd gen rear engine mount, instead it has 2 mounts on the crossmember on the front and rear of the transmission. Since I took out the support bracket for the stock intake manifold there is a bit of room (not much with the gtr oil cooler but a bit) to make a bracket that will connect the block via the mounting location for the stock IM bracket and connect to my Medieval solid rear mount from my old fsde msp setup.

with 5 solid mounts I dont think the drivetrain will be bumping around period. which is good because the more time I spend looking at the miniscule gap between the drivers side axle and the frame rail, the more I am thinking the drivetrain jerked extremely hard while cruising in 5th and the moving axle hit the frame rail which caused both axles CVs to implode. this would explain all of the problems I had with the axles breaking. whether that was the cause or not I decided to pull all of the mounts, reweld them, redo the solid filling on 2 of em and raised the engine up another 1/4 inch with some washers just to be safe. As a side effect the shifter linkage seems to line up a bit better now and shifting seems more direct.

The crossmember design is a bit flawed also as the 1st gen uses 2 bolts on the front, 2 bolts on the rear, whereas the 3rd gen just has 1 rear bolt holding it in. I think my makeshift crossmember must have a bit of flex / poor design as I basically cut the 1st gen crossmember after the rear mount and made the 2 sides come into 1 point to be bolted in. I think for everything to be "perfect" I should just remake the crossmember from scratch.

so even though the 4 mounts I have now seem to be sufficient and reliable for DD now that I worked on the mounts a bit more, this 5th mount idea seems better and better especially since boost is getting put into the equation.

I dunno when my friends drive the car they say its already too solid for them to drive comfortably but I am used to a ruff clutch so for me it could be a bit stiffer. I can still feel a bit too much movement starting off hard in 1st and I just want to cut down that movement with the 5th engine mount. this should give me a uber start with the MS launch control with good tires and eliminate wheel hop.

Im back on the stock intake manifold until I get my ITBS back from silex. he has had them for a long time now reworking my design so I am getting impatient..

the cold air intake is now the lowest part of the car with the filter on the drivers side of the radiator about 2.5 inches out of the engine bay below the bumper line. Its about 3/4 inch lower than my oil pan (remember I dropped the engine as much as I could and brought it towards the firewall). IAT temps are very low in this setup and the intake is mounted to the engine with a bracket on the clutch slave so I dont have to worry about drivetrain movement destroying my intake as the intake moves with the drivetrain.

I also welded in a new 2.5 inch flex pipe as the old one was leaking. maybe its just phsycological effect from having less noise but I swear the car feels like it lost a bit of power in the 6K+ range. you would think with such a big exhaust already on the car that it wouldnt need any less backpressure to make power up top but I guess I learn something every day. 7800rpms still sounds like sex and when you are shifting 2-3 or 3-4 the extra few hundred rpm drop you right in the powerband of the next gear. It makes the acceleration very peppy considering the weight of the 3rd gen.

[Lex]

Great to see this being reliable Jeff! I haven't been following - but you have some turbo plans - correct?

[vtec-this]

yes but i cant seem to get my 460s working right.

I had a good tune going with them on the ITBS but then removed the itbs to have them rewelded on a fresh flange by Silex so I put the stock IM back in. not sure if i damaged one or something cause now even when I take your stock 230 starter map and adjust the values for the 460s the car drives like its on 3 cylinders, but at idle the car is ok and has good afrs so at this point i dont know if one of them has gone bad or what so I just put the car back down to 230cc and now I am hunting for a set of 550s so I can build off the BP_MSI_NOVAF_550cc_ map you included with the software. Not really interested in boost until I can get these 230s out. there are some gtx and probe injectors locally but 330cc doesnt sounds good enough for maxing a T25 on this n/a motor (~15psi with ITBs and tubular manifold on 9:1 compression).

[bomdoutscort]

yes but i cant seem to get my 460s working right.

I had a good tune going with them on the ITBS but then removed the itbs to have them rewelded on a fresh flange by Silex so I put the stock IM back in. not sure if i damaged one or something cause now even when I take your stock 230 starter map and adjust the values for the 460s the car drives like its on 3 cylinders, but at idle the car is ok and has good afrs so at this point i dont know if one of them has gone bad or what so I just put the car back down to 230cc and now I am hunting for a set of 550s so I can build off the BP_MSI_NOVAF_550cc_ map you included with the software. Not really interested in boost until I can get these 230s out. there are some gtx and probe injectors locally but 330cc doesnt sounds good enough for maxing a T25 on this n/a motor (~15psi with ITBs and tubular manifold on 9:1 compression).

You could always get an adjustable fuel pressure regulator and crank up the psi on the injectors

[vtec-this]

for the price of the regulator with shipping i might as well just get the 550s. if someone has a deal on them pm me!

[DuRWooD]

Glad to see you got this thing running right. I'm a little worried about the up coming changing emissions laws, but I'm sure there's a way around it. I was able to get the KLZE to pass no problem, so you should be able to get the BP to pass for now.

[bomdoutscort]

You just missed some. they were like 125 shipped or something like that.

[vtec-this]

i figure i should be able to find 550s around $200 if I get lucky. GTX injectors and that fpr are gona be about the same so I might as well just get the 550s and someday if I am lucky maybe I will need more fuel for a huge turbo but thats some pipe dreamin.

[Mazda_Powered]

ya, there were some 550s on here the other day, but ebay always works too lol

[Lex]

550s are a good size for power in the 250-300 whp range.