Need a Turbine Speed Sensor ASAP!!!

[zoomzoom chick]

My 01 Protege ES is at about 115k miles and runnin great...exept for recently on the way home from work my O/D off light started flashing. At first I figured I hit the button or something but the button didnt do anything. (it does work when light isnt flashing) I needed gas anyway so I pulled over, filled up, and when I re-started It was fine. Next day I changed fluid n filter thinkin maby it was just tryin to tell me somthing, but later on it did it again. For awhile it was just an annoyance but after the first couple times it began shifting hard on takeoff at ~2000 rpms, the o/d light would flash, check engine light would come on and it wont go into overdrive. OBD scanner gives code p0715 - input turbine speed sensor circuit malfuntion. So I know whats wrong, problem is I cant find the part anywhere. Autozone and local parts dealers dont have it and I've searched online including mazda-parts.com which a previous poster said they found theres on, but no luck for me. I REALLY dont wanna overpay to get it from a dealership if I dont have to, but I need it asap. Gotta get this fixed before it causes further damage! Long story short, any help will be greatly appreciated!!! Thanks a bunch!!!

[1Mazda323Fan]

http://www.car-stuff.com/store/?N=11062+4294963692+1667+11921+7696

This is the only one I could find after checking about 20 different sites. They all had the same one. Apparently this is the only ones in existence besides the factory sensor. If this isn't the right one, your options boil down to the dealership or taking your chances at a junkyard.

[blackrifle]

You did the smart thing by changing the ATF and filter. The TCC will not engage with a P0715 code in memory, and clutches do not fully apply. In that failure mode, everything runs hotter. I run Red Line Hi-Temp ATF in the summer because I drive the 101 & 405 every day.

The I/TSS is a Hall-effect pulse generator. The pulse rate sent to the engine management computer is porportional to the rotational velocity of the teeth on the circumference of the torque converter.
The sensor sits on the top of the ATX case, directly above the torque converter, below the intake air box. That is the hottest location on the ATX. Mine quit at 98K miles, so failure at 115K is not bad. You already know that every mile you drive in this failure mode you are shortening the life of the ATX.

Mazda-sourced I/TSS P/N FN01-21-550 will cost you about $60. Be sure to get a new 'O"-ring also. Although made of Nitrile or Neoprene, the old one is heat-aged. Do not re-use it. The number stamped on the sensor plate is the build date, not the P/N.

The part referenced in the link provided above is mfg'd by Standard Motor Parts. They've been in the aftermarket/replacement parts business since the 1940's.

The price differential is so small however, I recommend you purchase the part from Mazda. Sensor module is easy to replace if you have a 3/8"-drive ratchet, 24" extension, and 10mm socket. A recently-calibrated, stored-carefully, Inch-Pound 3/8"-drive torque wrench is also recommended.

If you have the FSM, go to Section 05-17.

Before you begin: The engine and ATX must be stone cold, as in: Parked it last night and haven't driven it since then. Next, insure that the area around the sensor is absolutely clean. By that I mean using a brush, brake spray cleaner, Q-tips and dried-with-canned-air clean. Althought the FSM says to the contrary, you can do this without removing the air box.
Unbolt the sensor first, then carefully remove the electrical connector and re-connect to new part, then install in ATX case. Lubricate the new "O"-ring with a drop of ATF. Apply Hylomar sealant to the threads. The Hylomar acts first as an anti-sieze and then a sealant. You have a steel fastener going into bare aluminum threads, so tighten with care. Approach the final torque in stages, not all at once. Torque spec is: 69.5 to 95.4 Inch-Pounds.
On my '02, the connector has latches both above and below the connector body. A very small, slender flat-blade screwdriver is helpful here.

If you do not have the correct FSM, it is available for about $115 through Mazda dealer parts dept. IMHO, a worthwhile investment. Alternatively, look on eBay for the FSM on CD-ROM. Costs about $10-$15 delivered. Those I have purchased for '04-'08 Mazda3 and an RX-8 exactly replicate the printed FSM, page for page.

If you have access to a trustworthy DVM with Ohms measurement function, there are a couple of tests you can perform, on the old and the new sensors that mostly satisfiy one's curiosity. Ever the Metrologist, I logged before and after data. Tested the new sensor for in-spec at room temperature before leaving the parts counter. If the electrical specs are of interest, let me know.

I wish you every success in this endeavour. Please let us know how it progressed, and the final outcome.

[goldstar]

Welcome to the forum, blackrifle. Excellent write-up. I felt I was there doing it myself.

Happy Motoring!

[MazdaNoob]

Welcome to the forum, blackrifle. Excellent write-up. I felt I was there doing it myself.

Happy Motoring!

seconded!! great writeup and welcome to CP

[zoomzoom chick]

Wow Blackrifle who needs a fsm w/ u around lol! j/k great write-up! Anyway, once i figured out the model # on my tranny I ended up finding a set of input and output on ebay for like $45 brand new. They sent me the wrong part for the output but that still ended up cheaper than any other site had just the input so its all good. Got it in and problem solved! Its been 3 days n shifts perfect again, gonna change atf again just to be safe tho. Thanx again yall!!!