Alternator Replacement....

[north42g]

Got a question about Alternators..
Has any company ever successfully designed a High-Output Alternator
for my 2002 Protege5?
I think the stock one is around 80 amps. (I think)
I have a lot of aftermarket stereo equipment installed. (two MA Audio 1800 watt amps, a capacitor, upgraded door speakers, Tweeters mounted near front A-Pillar, & a Sub Enclosure with two twelves.)
The head Unit is a Sony CDX-710 Expld.

So the last few days the dash light are fading in and out, and the engine's RPM is rising and falling respectively.
I put a DVOM on the Battery and found that the Voltage is all over the place.
14.5v then up to 17.3v then to 15.6, back up to 16.8v then down to 13.4v
and so on ...and so on...
It seems like it the Alternator to me guys....
I parked it for a few days until I get a new Alt, so the car doesn't fail me and leave me stranded.

The thing is, I know the wiring isn't perfect, but it was done correctly.
And then there is the fact that the capacitor is of high quality. I thought by using a decent capacitor I could avoid these Alternator troubles...??

[monoxidechild]

there are a few even stock mazda ones you can make work. even the 110 amp millenia alt can be modded to work. but your easiest and best bet is hit up maniac motors. they sell a 140amp direct replacement for under $200 shipped. you really cant beat that kind of deal.

[north42g]

I like the looks of the 140 amp Alternator form the Maniac-Motors website!!
All though I think It'll be a little more than $200 shipped to Boston, Massachusetts.
The power wire must be upgraded if I were to use the 140amp version...right?
I believe the wire from Alt to Batt must be upgraded to a 4 - 6 gauge line, with a good solid ground.
has any one really ever done this?!

[monoxidechild]

yup. i even upgraded that wire on my 110 amp alt. the stock wire is small, and usually it pretty crappy rough shape from the engine heat. it doesnt take much to run a 3 foot piece of new wire from the alt, to your battery. and makes a big difference. and the wire costs less then $10 bux.

[north42g]

Well, it's definitely not the alternator. I replaced it with the one from Maniac Motors and there is no change! It still surges & the head lights and the interior lights go dim and bright in sink with the surging idle.
The PCM has DTC stored. P1632- Generator output to PCM below 8 volts. I also read about a wt/gr wire from the Fuse box to the PCM possibly being the fault?
Any one else had a problem like this?
BTW: where is the PCM located in this vehicle?
Does any one have a factory service manual pin point test for DTC-P1632?

[goldstar]

From the FSM

DTC P1632: Battery voltage monitor signal circuit malfunction

Detection Condition: PCM monitors voltage of battery + terminal (B+) at PCM terminal 4. If PCM detects battery + terminal voltage below 7.97 V for 5 seconds, PCM determines that battery + voltage circuit has malfunction.

Possible Cause:
1. Open circuit in wiring between battery + terminal and PCM terminal 4. To test, disconnect battery cables and check for continuity between battery + terminal and PCM terminal 4.

2. Poor connection of PCM connector. To test, disconnect PCM connector and check for damaged/pulled out terminals, corrosion, etc.

3. Inspect the main relay

4. If condition persists, likely PCM malfunction. Replace PCM

To access the PCM:
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the front passenger side scuff plate.
3. Remove the front passenger side trim.
4. Partially peel off the floor covering from the front of the passenger's side.

Happy Motoring!