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    #1

    Sloppy shifter

    Hey there,

    As the title states, I have a sloppy shifter. When in any gear, the shifter can flow around all loosy goosy. How can I fix this? I just bought this car as a winter beater. Dont plan on spending much on it, just want to work out some minor kinks.

    I went to the dealer to find new shifter bushings, but the ones they showed me looked more like something that goes IN the rubber bushing. They looked tiny. Definitely not the same as those yellow aftermarket ones.

    Can anyone help me out as to what part I need and how to change them?

    99 protege 1.6l.
    Thanks all!!
    Tags: None
    #2
    Welcome to CP.

    Check out:
    http://www.wihandyman.com/forum/showthread.php?47415


    Happy Motoring!
    02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
    MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
    MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
    Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
    MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
    Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
    Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
    Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
    Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
    Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
    Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
    Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
    Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter

    Comment

      #3
      Thanks, but which ones are to fix the left-right sloppiness? Is it the two little ones? Or the two big ones? The dealer seems to think the big ones are just washers.

      Comment

        #4
        I'm not sure I know what you mean. The change control (shift) rod has two bushings at each end and these are the ones that need to be changed if worn, or if stiffer bushings are desired, to reduce shifter play. The large bushing (or bushings if aftermarket) helps to produce a more rigid coupling between the shifter mechanism and the transmission housing.

        Edit:         Also check that the bolt that connects the shift lever to the change control rod is sufficiently tight. If too loose, a good deal of side-to-side play develops and the nut will shortly come off and possibly strand you if the bolt falls out. Don't ask me how I know.

        Happy Motoring!
        Last edited by goldstar; 09-06-2012, 02:22 PM.
        02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
        MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
        MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
        Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
        MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
        Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
        Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
        Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
        Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
        Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
        Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
        Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
        Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter

        Comment

          #5
          Ya it's for side to side.

          When I'm in any gear, the shifter can move side to side at least 4inches.

          I'm not looking to upgrade as this will be a basic mode of transport.

          Will the replacing the smaller ones help the in gear side to side flop?

          Comment

            #6
            With new OEM bushings and properly torqued shift lever bolt and change control rod bolt at the transmission end, the shifting should be fine assuming it's a linkage problem.

            Happy Motoring!
            02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
            MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
            MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
            Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
            MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
            Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
            Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
            Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
            Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
            Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
            Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
            Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
            Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter

            Comment

              #7
              Ok thanks. I'll jack the car up and take a look while someone plays with the shifter to see where the extra movement is coming from.

              Comment

                #8
                You're welcome. Good luck with resolving the problem.

                Happy Motoring!
                02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
                MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
                MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
                Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
                MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
                Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
                Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
                Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
                Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
                Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
                Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
                Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
                Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter

                Comment

                  #9
                  just grab the shift rod yourself underneath the car and you will see the slop .. it is the 2 very small bushings from the dealer and you should buy 4 of em 2 at the shifter base and 2 at the trans end of the same rod .there is a much larger bushing for the stabilizer rod at the trans end that should be looked at as well ......


                  BE VERY CAREFUL UNDOING THE BOLT ON THE SHIFTER BASE and do not just crank it tight . soak it in penetrant over night and it is a nyloc nut that you are taking off . try and re-use it but if you cant home depot has them . you will be working above the exhaust just behind the catalytic so you might have to remove a heat shield to see what you are up to.

                  when installing the bushings clean the rust out of the shifter end ( use rolled up emery cloth ) , clean the shoulder of the bolt you hopefully saved and grease the crap out of all of it. the bushings go in the shifter base itself then slip the yoke over it and insert the bolt, you should have to lightly force it over the lip of the bushings, if not pinch the yoke so it is a tight fit and just snug the nyloc nut up against it . you dont want it to bind but want the tollerance as tight as possible . repeat at trans end


                  edit : mazda shift bushing part # B00146062 x4 should be about 4-6.00 each
                  Last edited by MazdaNoob; 09-06-2012, 06:29 PM.


                  Comment

                    #10
                    Originally posted by MazdaNoob View Post
                    just grab the shift rod yourself underneath the car and you will see the slop .. it is the 2 very small bushings from the dealer and you should buy 4 of em 2 at the shifter base and 2 at the trans end of the same rod .there is a much larger bushing for the stabilizer rod at the trans end that should be looked at as well ......


                    BE VERY CAREFUL UNDOING THE BOLT ON THE SHIFTER BASE and do not just crank it tight . soak it in penetrant over night and it is a nyloc nut that you are taking off . try and re-use it but if you cant home depot has them . you will be working above the exhaust just behind the catalytic so you might have to remove a heat shield to see what you are up to.

                    when installing the bushings clean the rust out of the shifter end ( use rolled up emery cloth ) , clean the shoulder of the bolt you hopefully saved and grease the crap out of all of it. the bushings go in the shifter base itself then slip the yoke over it and insert the bolt, you should have to lightly force it over the lip of the bushings, if not pinch the yoke so it is a tight fit and just snug the nyloc nut up against it . you dont want it to bind but want the tollerance as tight as possible . repeat at trans end


                    edit : mazda shift bushing part # B00146062 x4 should be about 4-6.00 each

                    Awesome!!! Thanks a bunch!!

                    Comment

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