Coolant leak - Engine cracked or gasket blown.

[newcastle]

2002 P5. 237000 miles.
Otherwise eveyrthing is fine but pissing coolant from back of engine
i cna't see exaclty where its coming from, but looking down the back of teh engine with a flashlight there appears to be a rust streak down th block and i can see it pouring out.

Therefore either its a new engine time orrrrrr it engine out and stripped. Both beyond me technically and therefore costly.

SOOO quetsion is a) Anyone know a source for replacement engines and likely cost? and b) realistically with this many miles on it would it be best just to get a new engine anyway even if it IS the gasket??

[1st Gen]

Can you say for certain it's not a heater hose?

[FE3-323]

you can swap in another junkyard motor. (grab one from a later model 626)

[newcastle]

re the heater hose i cannot say 100% as i couldn't see clearly but there did not appear to be anything in that vicinty but the baack of the engine. will check tomorrow at lunchtime though. ar eth 626 motors direct drop ins and what size are they? I also found on the web a drop in 2 liter or 1.6 liter engine for $1200 or thereabouts from "Car monkeys.com" anyone got exp with them?

[FE3-323]

the 626 4cylinder is the same 2.0l FS motor. the only reason i say to get one from that is the protege5 motors had a massive recall issue with the intake manifold scews inside going through the engine. 85% of them on the road or higher that did not go in for the recall work at mazda are likely to have sent at least 1 screw through the motor causing internal damage.

you can reuse your old intake manifold if need be- or the 626 one. if you reuse your old manifold on another engine i highly suggest you open it and perform the repair work so you don't have motor issues on the replacement.

the symptom your describing tho sounds more like a leaking freeze plug. i recommend taking it to a shop or the dealer to find out where exactly its coming from & getting a repair quote first thing

[newcastle]

There was a recall on these engines?? Wow news to me, and we had a loan FROM MAZDA for 5 years form 2002 and noone told us about it. When was the recall?

[FE3-323]

re-read my previous post. it explains what the recall was about.
you can call your dealership with the vin number and ask them if they have any report of it going through the recall work.

[newcastle]

it didn't - we've had it since new
Turned out it WAS the freeze plug - so thank you for the advice. however after testing the garage filled it back up and drove it. All good and i avoided engine change or gasket change. However......I drove home, and after about 6 miles the temp gauage was waaay high again. Checked wihen engine cooled. Radiator is still full, coolant resevoir has a hole in it so I need a new one of those, but with the engine started there doesn't appear to be any circulation through the reserve coolant tank. is this right? is maybe my pump is the secondary culprit here? any ideas?

[FE3-323]

first question- Did you ever overheat the engine?
2ndly - did you have the freeze plug replaced??

there should not be circulation in the coolant reservoir tank (its actually more of an overflow than anything else)
If you are noticing fluid coming out of the radiator into the reservoir that means your headgasket is bad

I would highly suggest changing the thermostat as a failsafe

[newcastle]

Yes freeze plug replaced but yes, the engine was overheated
No ciculation inot tank so we're good there though teh resresevoir is clearly done for . BUT radiator is full and car overheated. Thermostat sounds like a possibility. i sthere a check I can do at home for this without garage gear?

[FE3-323]

replace the thermostat & cross your fingers. if you still have a overheating issue you will have to replace the headgasket ($300 in parts/machine work if you do the labor yourself)

[newcastle]

It appears to be the water pump accoridng to the guy at the shop. bottom of radiator is cold while top is hot. Coolant not circulating at all. I was quoted about $800 for parts and labor inlcuding changing the timing belt as the pump is behind the timing belt. For a $1000 car thats pretty rough, but it would cost me much more to get one that runs this well and that i like as much. Does the quotation appear reasobnable - bear in mind 'Im in san francisco so the hourly rate is something like $100 pe rhour round here.

[FE3-323]

if thats with parts included thats not too bad for that kind of shop labor. you can look to see if your waterpump is leaking. (check the motor on the belts side of the engine & on the ground where you park it for coolant puddles. if its not i say change the thermostat out (you can do it yourself & it'll cost about $20 tops for the parts) a sticking thermostat will also not allow the coolant to circulate.

I.E. the shop is trying to take you for a fool.

[newcastle]

We already changed the thermostat and test drove the car on the freeway. No dice there I'm afraid. System is not leaking now but coolant not circulating.

[newcastle]

All fixed. Water pump was the secondary issue. The impeller was shredded. Mayeb that happened because of leak and having nothing to move around. REALLy appreciate the knowledge base here.