Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

custom 99-00 front lip

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    #76
    Why swap at all if you're not getting a bigger engine?

    Comment


      #77
      yeah, I would think that a 1.8 should drop right in.
      My MAM SS Kit Install Thread | Gauge Customization kit - LEDs, icons, more! Sample:

      Replacement Stainless Steel Hex Screws for your AWR swaybar! now 19mm AND 21.5mm!

      99 ES 1.8 | Highlight Silver Metallic | shaved mouldings | DaveB's Brushed Gauge Rings | Llumar Tint charcoal 35 side, 20 rear; smoked mirror 18 moonroof | clear corners
      JVC deck w/ Infinity Reference 5x7s and 6x9s, XM Radio via Custom Mount Delphi SkyFi | Rage Vigors 17x7 metal | Potenza RE750 215/40 rubber | Espilir springs
      AWR 21.5mm Sway Bar w/adjustable endlinks & Trailing Links & Front/Rear Engine Mounts | Custom Fiberglass hood from Maz1.8T | 626 Wiper Stalk

      C-17 Pilot--Jonathan--ProTuner

      Comment


        #78
        i thought the 1.8 didnt just drop right in, if it does then we will go shopping for a 1.8

        thank you for the comments the mirrors will be painted soon, after the taillights and rear lip get put on

        Comment


          #79
          there has to be plenty of threads talking about it. The protegeFAQ might have something as well
          My MAM SS Kit Install Thread | Gauge Customization kit - LEDs, icons, more! Sample:

          Replacement Stainless Steel Hex Screws for your AWR swaybar! now 19mm AND 21.5mm!

          99 ES 1.8 | Highlight Silver Metallic | shaved mouldings | DaveB's Brushed Gauge Rings | Llumar Tint charcoal 35 side, 20 rear; smoked mirror 18 moonroof | clear corners
          JVC deck w/ Infinity Reference 5x7s and 6x9s, XM Radio via Custom Mount Delphi SkyFi | Rage Vigors 17x7 metal | Potenza RE750 215/40 rubber | Espilir springs
          AWR 21.5mm Sway Bar w/adjustable endlinks & Trailing Links & Front/Rear Engine Mounts | Custom Fiberglass hood from Maz1.8T | 626 Wiper Stalk

          C-17 Pilot--Jonathan--ProTuner

          Comment


            #80
            from what i can get out of the faq, what i said is right. trying to put any other engine besides another 1.6l or converting my 1.6l to manual is too time consuming and kinda useless

            Comment


              #81
              Originally posted by Drackonn
              from what i can get out of the faq, what i said is right. trying to put any other engine besides another 1.6l or converting my 1.6l to manual is too time consuming and kinda useless
              So, again, why put another 1.6 in? Is there something seriously wrong with yours now? It seems like a waste of money to me.

              Comment


                #82
                Very nice and original
                Want Projector Headlights ?

                Comment


                  #83
                  by the time i do it my engine will probably have around 75k -100k miles i dont think it will hold up to well to everything

                  Comment


                    #84
                    thank you danny ... and another dilemma im having ... what do you guys think carbon fiber hood? or no?
                    Last edited by Drackonn; 06-20-2004, 02:08 PM.

                    Comment


                      #85
                      If you wanna swap heres some info that'll help. it's a page from http://web2.iadfw.net/theman/protegefaq/

                      Please note all swap info only focus on manual transmission cars.
                      1st generations:
                      1st generation cars can swap the entire powertrain to either the BP-ZET (1.8l DOHC
                      Turbo), *KL-DE, *KL-ZE, or *FE-ZE (aka FE3). B6-E and B8-ME equiped cars can
                      also swap the powertrain to the one offered in the Protegé LX (BP-ZE 1.8l DOHC)
                      at a relatively low cost.

                      *Note for these engines, custom fabrication of mounts will be required. Little is known to
                      the public what needs to be done to perform a KL (2.5l V6) variant engine swap other
                      than the only known shop that does the work-- A-Spec of Toronto, Canada. The
                      FE-ZE 2.0l DOHC engine is basically a "giant" version of the BP engine which means all
                      the parts are bigger while extremely similar to the 1.8l cousin. The mount locations are
                      also in similar places, allowing an almost straighforward swap. Although, "FE-ZE" is the
                      official code for the 170hp 2.0l DOHC engine, it is most commonly refered to as the
                      "FE3" due to the castings on the block.
                      2nd generations:
                      Although 2nd generations have significantly smaller engine bays, performing swaps are
                      not impossible at all. In fact, the physical portion of the swaps are very straight forward
                      and almost Honda-like! The only economically viable swap candidate for the 2nd
                      generations are the BP engines. Although there were actually 2nd generations equiped
                      with the BP-DE, they are very rare. The majority of the 2nd generations sold were ones
                      equiped with the Z5-DE engine. Owners with the BP-DE engines have only one very
                      obvious thing to do: either turbo the stock engine, or swap in the BP-ZET.

                      Owners with Z5-DE engines will have a very interesting task on their hands when
                      performing the swap-- transmissions. Contrary to popular belief, the 1995 model was
                      the only year that the 2nd generations receive the G25M-R transmission. This trans-
                      mission is more favored due to its tollerances to higher engine power. All 1996-1998
                      models received only the F25M-R transmission which is generally regarded as weaker.
                      First, you will have to find out what year and car # your car is (super easy). Then you
                      will have to decide which transmission you want to use. Regardless of which year your
                      car is, using the G25M-R transmission will mean more parts required to install the
                      engine and transmission versus the F25M-R. It is strongly recommended that you use the
                      G25M-R.When doing the swap, you will need a new transmission anyway, so there's
                      not really a point in using another F25M-R.

                      Following is a list of Mazda part #'s of parts needed to perform the swap. This will give
                      you an idea of what you'll need and should help you find the parts you need at a junk
                      yard. Parts not mentioned are parts you will be reusing that are compatible. You will
                      definately need an ECU meant for the Protegé's BP engine and wiring harness for the
                      engine to run. The 2nd generation's BP ECU is OBD-II based, which may cause
                      compatibility issues with the BP-ZET engine that was originally meant for a BG chassis
                      car. An ECU and wiring harness from the 1st generation maybe a solution to this problem.
                      If you want to use the G25M-R, here are the parts you'll need just to allow the engine
                      and transmission to bolt in:
                      Any G transmission from a 1st generation Protegé should work, but the 2nd generation's
                      G25M-R is guaranteed to work.
                      BC1F-39-020 #2 engine mount bracket (from 95 model)
                      BC1F-39-030A #3 engine mount bracket (from 95 model)
                      BC1F-39-035A #3 engine mount stay bracket
                      BC1D-39-067 #4 engine mount corn mounting rubber washer (needs 3)
                      (from 95 model)
                      BC1E-39-100C #4 engine rubber mount (needs 3)
                      (from 95 model)
                      BC1F-39-090 #4 engine mount support bracket (from 95 model)
                      9978-40-225 #4 engine mount support bracket bolt (needs 2)
                      (from 95 model)
                      GJ21-39-094 #4 engine mount support bracket bolt (from 95 model)
                      GJ21-39-04XB manual transmission to engine bracket (from 95 model)
                      9975-61-075 manual transmission to engine bracket bolt (needs 2)
                      (from 95 model)
                      F057-25-700 joint shaft
                      BC2A-41-360B clutch pipe
                      The following is only applicable to cars based on brake system (parts from 95 model):
                      B01B-41-380A clutch line, non-ABS
                      E020-41-380B clutch line, ABS
                      BC1F-46-060 shifter linkage rod (from 95 model)
                      The following is only applicable to cars based on brake system & VIN (parts from
                      95 model):
                      FA14-25-50X right axle, non-ABS (car # -161768)
                      FA15-25-50X right axle, ABS (car # -161768)
                      F066-25-500 right axle, non-ABS (car # 161768-)
                      F066-25-50X right axle, ABS (car # 161768-)
                      The following is only applicable to cars based on brake system (parts from 95 model):
                      F065-25-60X left axle, non-ABS
                      F066-25-60X left axle, ABS
                      If you insist on using the F25M-R (which is fine if you are just swapping to the BP-DE):
                      You must get a F25M-R from a 1996-1998 BP engined Protegé
                      The following is only applicable to specific cars based on VIN:
                      BC1F-39-030B #3 engine mount bracket (car # -207729)
                      BC1F-39-030C #3 engine mount bracket (car # 207729-)
                      BC1F-39-035A #3 engine mount stay bracket
                      FA08-25-700C joint shaft

                      As for turbo placement for the BP engine (whether bolt on turbo to the BP-DE or stock
                      turbo from the BP-ZET), the plumbing work will have to be figured out yourself due to
                      a much tighter engine bay in the 2nd generations. You can try using the hood scoop fed
                      top mount intercooler from the turbo diesel 4E-EI equiped cars (in Europe and Japan)
                      if there is major lack of room for an intercooler (which I highly doubt).
                      3rd generations:
                      For the first time, the Protegé got engines from the larger 626 car-- the FP and FS
                      engines. These engines are physically larger and completely different from the B series
                      engines used in past models. People who have the 1.6l ZM-DE engines will find that a
                      swap to the FP or FS engine is cost prohibitive and difficult. Although there is not too
                      much involved in physically shoehorning the engine into the car, the difficulties and cost
                      stem from the electrical and electronic components. Swapping to the BP or any other
                      engine from any 3rd generation car is also extremely difficult and expensive as major
                      custom fabrication is required. For the owners with the F series engines, swapping to
                      the FS-ZE engine is a direct bolt on. For owners with the 1.8l FP-DE engine,
                      swapping the transmission to the G15M-R one used in the newer 2001+ cars is
                      possible as long as the axles and engine mounts are changed out.

                      The most physically direct swap for the 1.6l ZM-DE owners is getting the 1.5l ZL-VE
                      engine from the Japanese market. It has the S-VT variable valve timing system.
                      Getting the engine physically into the car is not a problem, everything bolts up. The
                      problem is trying to run the engine with the S-VT. You must get the wiring harness
                      and ECU to get it to run. At this time, there is not really an aftermarket ECU that will
                      be able to control such a variable valve timing system. A Honda VTEC controller will
                      not work. VTEC works in a 2 or 3 stage cam profile mode, while S-VT works like
                      Toyota's continuously variable VVTi system. Do some research into aftermarket
                      controllers for Toyota's VVTi system (they are the most plentiful continously variable
                      valve timing engines available in the market). Anything made to control VVTi will
                      work with S-VT, including the Haltech E11 ECU.

                      For 1.6l ZM-DE owners insisting on swapping their engines to the FS engines, you
                      will need the following in addition to the G15M-R transmission, wiring harnesses and
                      ECU (this assumes you have a manual transmission and the FS engine you buy have
                      the necessary motor mount bosses already installed onto the engine):
                      BL3K-39-040 #1 engine rubber mount
                      BL3K-39-06YA #3 engine rubber mount
                      BL3K-39-070A #4 engine rubber mount
                      BL3K-39-080G #4 engine mount bracket
                      GA2A-41-380C clutch line
                      BL3K-46-100 shifter mechanism
                      GA15-25-700B joint shaft
                      The following is only applicable to cars based on brake system:
                      FA71-25-50X right axle, non-ABS
                      FA61-25-50X right axle, ABS
                      GD24-25-60XA left axle, non-ABS
                      GD23-25-60XC left axle, ABS
                      For the people wanting to use the F25M-R transmission for whatever odd reason:
                      You must get a F25M-R from a 1999-2000 FP engined Protegé
                      BJ0N-39-06YD #3 engine rubber mount
                      FA54-25-700A joint shaft
                      The following is only applicable to specific cars based on VIN:
                      BJ0N-39-040C (car # -134481)
                      B25D-39-040B(car # 134481-)
                      For the brave souls who want to reuse their stock F25M-R transmission, you must
                      swap the bell housing of the transmission. This basically means a transmission
                      rebuild-- even if you are just reusing the internals. The part number for the bell
                      housing side of the transmission is F5E1-17-150E. Do remember that the gear
                      ratios between the 1.6l and 1.8l cars are different.
                      BuddyClub2,body kit/ NOPI CF wing/ Eibach Pro kit/ Motegi MR7/ DG Motorsports grill insert/ RedLine neon under body kit/ APC racing seats/ Ractive harnesses/ Autopower 4pt. roll bar/ SPARCO steering wheel, pedals, & shift knob/ Autometer tach,oil press & boost gauge/ Greddy turbo timer, boost controller/ Apexi super AFC II(not installed)/ Clarion VRX935VD touchscreen/ Rockford Fosgate 1001BD, 935BD amps/ Lightning Audio Caps and X-Tras/ Power Acoustic 2-12" Fubr subs,4 way 6x9's & 6" components/ B&M short shifter/ ACT stage 3 clutch/ Indigo flywheel/ SR Motorsports 4.30 final drive gears(not installed)/ MP Motorsports custom turbo kit, Garrett GT-50 ball bearing turbo/ BEGI AFPR/ Yonaka intercooler/ Blitz blow off valve/ 3" downpipe exhaust to an Apexi muffler

                      Comment


                        #86
                        im also going to buy another 1.6 engine and build it up, why you ask, because it will drop right back in with out changing axles, the ecu, engine mounts, tranny, and ect ect, and besides a turboed 1.6 puts out awesome power and has really good potential, i have no problem what so ever spanking MSP'S with my little 1.6, so why bother changing to a bigger engine. and besides you can find the 1.6 litre engine for like 300 bux from any junk yard.
                        .....HELLO MY NAME IS BEN...



                        186.08whp
                        225.94wtq
                        torque monster!!!!
                        dyno graph 8-10-and 12psi
                        http://www.msprotege.com/members/THE...no%20graph.jpg
                        http://videos.streetfire.net/player....0-C19CA06AF01E dyno vid

                        blahblahblahblahblahblah

                        Comment


                          #87
                          yeah when i saw how cheap they were thats when i decided to not waste my money on the bigger engines i just need the tranny

                          Comment


                            #88
                            yeah a tranny is what another 150 bux??? its a cheap conversion if you can do it yourself, or have friends that can, parts are dirt cheap.
                            .....HELLO MY NAME IS BEN...



                            186.08whp
                            225.94wtq
                            torque monster!!!!
                            dyno graph 8-10-and 12psi
                            http://www.msprotege.com/members/THE...no%20graph.jpg
                            http://videos.streetfire.net/player....0-C19CA06AF01E dyno vid

                            blahblahblahblahblahblah

                            Comment


                              #89
                              i could figure it out ... never done it before i have friends who have done it on hondas so im sure it cant be too hard, what do i need besides the tranny? shift linkage, clutch ...

                              Comment


                                #90
                                The new lip looks awesome painted, I'm impressed.
                                Clint/1999 "Sport20"

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X