i have a 2000 1.6l protege and im having some major hesitation and chugging sound problems. i first thought the problem might be my fuel system being dirty so i threw some greased lightning into the gas tank, filled it up and ran the car and i havent seen any results. my next step is i want to clean up the throttle body. my question is what am i getting myself into by removing the throttle body? what kind of hidden hoses are there to disconnect if there are any, anything to that nature? thanks guys. or do you guys have any other suggestions to why my car might be running like it is? it only hesitates when i first accelerate, kind of embarassing if someone is in the car with me and it sucks dealing with the sounds and hesitation at every stop light when it turns green. ive thought about goign to a shop but i dont want some guy trying to add on to my problems just to make money.
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Removing the throttle body to clean it
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You only need to drain your coolant if you remove the throttle body since coolant circulates through it. As TheMAN said, you don't have to remove the TB in order to clean it.
Happy Motoring!02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter
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Yes, and a small brush might be helpful in case of stubborn deposits.
Happy Motoring!02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter
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ok, so today when coming home from work, i turned on the car and pressed on the gas and the car *putt putt putted* and then stalled. my problem is getting worse, it takes me forever to get going at green lights after chugging for like 3 seconds. anyone had this problem before and know how to fix it?
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I am begining to think that I'm goin' to run into this problem pretty soon.
This morning the car won't start! My brother had to help me kick start it. The thing is, I went to a car place to get a cleaner for the throttle body. The guy showed one to me but it was also for a carburetor. I was told that I should get one specifically for throttle plates because carb cleaner can damage the throttle plate, so use a cleaner specifically for throttle plates.
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Originally posted by mazda323I am begining to think that I'm goin' to run into this problem pretty soon.
This morning the car won't start! My brother had to help me kick start it. The thing is, I went to a car place to get a cleaner for the throttle body. The guy showed one to me but it was also for a carburetor. I was told that I should get one specifically for throttle plates because carb cleaner can damage the throttle plate, so use a cleaner specifically for throttle plates.
well i went out and bought new spark plugs and it helped out the stalling problem but theres still some hesitation. if i give it a little more gas when i accelerate from a stop it isnt that much of a problem but i want my smoothness back =(! i have about 80,000 miles on it. my speedometer reads 45000 tho because of a problem putting on gay guages when i was younger and i broke a needle and got a new cluster. would it be a problem not getting the high mileage oil when i get the oil changed? i guess my next step would be to start cleaning out the throttle body?
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If you're having problems getting TB cleaner in Trinidad, couldn't you order it online?
Happy Motoring!02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter
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