What did you do to your BJ?

[jinx]

considering its NOT an interference engine... why would you be angry its a timing belt. Chains are SERIOUSLY more difficult to replace. Personally I refuse to run/own a timing chain'd engine.

And shortly- why all OEM? if your worried about your wallet im sure you'll find the OEM or better replacements elsewhere for heaps cheaper.

I'd rather swap a belt without breaking a sweat then dig into the engine to do such any day... Have fun adjusting the timing on the side of the road and or having to fix it on the spot!

[MD323]

just for those who dont know, timing chains stretch too..

the MZR has a timing chain, and I wont be doing another one of those, 3 special tools are needed to set the timing on it.

EDIT: also goldstar incase you make the mistake I did on my FS, the timing marks on the cams are supposed to point towards each other. if it saves someone the headhache i had its worth it lol

[goldstar]

considering its NOT an interference engine... why would you be angry its a timing belt. Chains are SERIOUSLY more difficult to replace. Personally I refuse to run/own a timing chain'd engine.

And shortly- why all OEM? if your worried about your wallet im sure you'll find the OEM or better replacements elsewhere for heaps cheaper.

The 3's timing chain doesn't require periodic replacement as does the timing belt in the Protege which is why I prefer a chain - one less maintenance item with which to deal. As for the parts, I won't necessarily buy them from Mazda but since I was there today I figured I'd cost them to get an idea of what to expect.

Happy Motoring!

[goldstar]

just for those who dont know, timing chains stretch too..

the MZR has a timing chain, and I wont be doing another one of those, 3 special tools are needed to set the timing on it.

EDIT: also goldstar incase you make the mistake I did on my FS, the timing marks on the cams are supposed to point towards each other. if it saves someone the headhache i had its worth it lol

Thanks for the advice. I already knew that and I have the FSM so I should be alright. It never hurts to be reminded of the proper proceedures, however, and I appreciate your help.


Happy Motoring!

[meGrimlock]

The 3's timing chain doesn't require periodic replacement as does the timing belt in the Protege which is why I prefer a chain - one less maintenance item with which to deal. As for the parts, I won't necessarily buy them from Mazda but since I was there today I figured I'd cost them to get an idea of what to expect.

Happy Motoring!

the quote you posted is actually very good for OE parts. a complete non-OE water pump/timing belt kit can be had for around $300. nowadays many dealers will get inventory from 3rd party vendors (many OE parts are simply rebranded from various mfg anyway) so the lines between OE parts are increasingly blurred. good luck with the timing belt as the time involved for a n00b of my skill level was enough to scare me away and have someone else do it.

[goldstar]

^
Thank you for your good wishes. I'll do my best.

Happy Motoring!

[goldstar]

considering its NOT an interference engine... why would you be angry its a timing belt. Chains are SERIOUSLY more difficult to replace. Personally I refuse to run/own a timing chain'd engine.

just for those who dont know, timing chains stretch too..

the MZR has a timing chain, and I wont be doing another one of those, 3 special tools are needed to set the timing on it.

The 3's timing chain doesn't require periodic replacement as does the timing belt in the Protege which is why I prefer a chain - one less maintenance item with which to deal.

In reference to the recent discussion of timing belts vs. chains, I came across this item in the Tech Advice section (page 115) of the June 2012 issue of Road&Track magazine. A reader asked why timing chains seem to be making a comeback since he considers them old technology compared with belts. Here, without comment, is R&T's response, verbatim.

Yes, chains driving camshafts are older than rubber belts, but older doesn't mean inferior. In fact, chains have one major advantage over belts: durability. Try as they might, engineers have yet to make a "rubber band" cam drive that will absolutely live for 150,000 guaranteed miles, much less a quarter million or so.

As customers have come to demand essentially lifetime service-free vehicles, chains have regained favor. they are more expensive than belts, weigh a little more and need some engineeering to ensure they don't sing like Caruso. But they're tough as a Waffle House pork chop so they'll be on the job as long as anything else in the engine, and can easily take abuse from variable cam-timing actuators.

Happy Motoring!

[jinx]

[Wilyb]

Ha! looks familiar.... great job!

[jinx]

Ha! looks familiar.... great job!

Way more cleaning left to the bay then it looks. I'd say another 24/36hrs and it should be ready to go in the garage for further work.

[FE3-323]

what are you using to clean the bay like that??

[jinx]

A little science and a little of the dark arcane arts! Didn't you know I'm a wizard?..

[MD323]

he uses a toothbrush



like the one in my FS thread, now somebody buy it!

[FE3-323]

I DO NOW!!! put some magic into my engine bay. it needs a good cleaning

A little science and a little of the dark arcane arts! Didn't you know I'm a wizard?..

[meGrimlock]

my left rear caliper was leaking. took a look under on the landlord's driveway. he suggested replacing all rear calipers/rotors/pads for the sake of peace of mind. after getting the remanufactured calipers from the local NAPA auto, come to find the adjustment gear that retracts/pushes the piston in the new caliper is stripped. had to use 1 adjustment gear from the other caliper on both calipers. looks like thats something they dont check in the rebuilding process. so top tip: check the adjustment gear at the store or keep the one from the old caliper and reuse it.

also, the remanufactured calipers were painted black. nice touch EXCEPT it seems a ton of overspray got in the bolt holes and it was a pain in the butt rebolting everything as they were super tight. i guess a Mazda part wouldnt have these problems but they were nearly 3x the price.

been driving around and it seems like the pads aren't making contact with the rotors. does it sound like i might have to turn the adjustment gear again?