1999 1.6L Changed timing belt now it won't start

[run-tillitdrops]

I have a 1999 Protege 1.6L automatic trans. with 255,600 miles on it. This all started because the car leaks oil and my son who drives it won't check the oil between changes and it is now leaking way too much oil. I was changing the front crank seal, oil pan seals, and valve cover seal. The timing belt has 190,000 miles on it and it looks great no cracking. But going that far I was changing it and the water pump while at it. I checked the timing marks and the crank gear notch aligned with the block mark and the cam gear notches aligned pointing towards each other in line with the block. I removed the old belt and changed the seal put the crank gear on and aligned the notch with the blcok indicator. Aligned the cam indicators again and put the timing belt on starting at the crank. Then over the idler pulley, across the exhaust cam, intake cam and around the tensioner. The tensioner spring on my car is 2.4 inches long, but isn't sprung. I installed it and rotated the crank 2 revolutions and all the timing marks aligned. I tightend the tensioner down at that point. I felt pretty good about the timing and reassembled the front end. The valve cover seal was hard and brittle and was leaking. The spark plugs had burnt oil around the ceramic so I changed them as well. Gapped to .044". Tried to start the car and nothing. Checked fuel and had spark. Pulled no. 1 plug and checked spark it was good. Checked the harmonic balancer gap and set to .050". If anyone has a pin out and check procedure for the mass air flow sensor I will check that as well. Any help would be appreciated.

[Ace]

It can't hurt to check compression to verify that the timing belt is correct. Did you possibly leave something unplugged? I'm not too familiar if those engines have a Crank position sensor or what.

[run-tillitdrops]

I'll get a compression gage from Advanced tomorrow and check it. The harmonic balancer is basically the crank sensor, but do not know if it is good or not, assumed it is since the car ran well before working on it, and didn't move it during the work. But can double check the connections on it.

Thanks for the reply

[run-tillitdrops]

I checked the crank shaft sensor and it is good at 547 OHm, the manual i am using shows the camshaft sensor as having 2 pins, mine has 3. I checked the ohm reading between the pins and all combinations are open. Does any one have a test procedure for the camshaft sensor?

Thanks in advanced

[irishkev90]

Did you check for any codes stored in the ECU?

Edit: The FSM says nothing about checking the CMP (camshaft position) sensor. Weird.

[run-tillitdrops]

There aren't any codes stored and it doesn't send any when trying to start.

I did notice that when turning the key there is a clicking sound instead of the normal fuel pump sound. Even though the plugs are wet could i not be getting enough pressure to start? Should it start anyway but run rough?

[irishkev90]

Too low of a pressure could cause it not to start. But if it ran fine before all the work, I don't think it would be a fuel problem.

[run-tillitdrops]

I haven't pulled both coil packs yet, so I'll do that and verify all plugs are getting a good spark. Then pull the valve cover back off and verify the timing hasn't jumped and that both cams are turning. Had a swift that snapped a cam shaft at the bearing journal.

Thanks for the advice.

[run-tillitdrops]

I pulled the valve cover and the front timing belt gaurd and the timing was still correct. Pulled the coil packs and found I am not getting any spark to either pack. My shop manual is at work, if anyone knows a place to start looking I would appreciate it. I checked all of the fuses in the engine compartment and they are good. Could the crank sensor be bad and still ohm good?

[irishkev90]

It could have the correct resistance while the pulley/teeth aren't passing by it. But if the resistance is off while the wheel is spinning, it would send an incorrect voltage back to the ECU. But I would think that would cause a CEL, hmm. I'll try looking through the FSM I have on my phone after work.

[run-tillitdrops]

Thanks I appreciate it, I had a code reader yesterday but it didn't show any codes.

[irishkev90]

Doesn't really say much concerning the coil packs except to look for cracks in the high tension leads (spark plug wires) or a short circuit somewhere in the wiring leading to the coil packs. In your first post you said you had spark, but now you found you don't have power to the coil packs?

[run-tillitdrops]

I pulled the first plug and laid it on the cam cover and had a blue spark. Last night I pulled both coil packs, but did not have any spark at all. I am wondering if I may have gotten the crankshaft sensor plate on backwards. Does anyone know the correct orientation, it is slightly cupped?

[run-tillitdrops]

FIXED

The crankshaft sensor plate was on backwards. The slight cupping put a spring into the plate behind the drive belt pulley and it was barely hitting the sensor once in a while. Pulled the pulley and flipped the sensor plate and it fired right up. Now to finish the gasket job on the oil pan.

Thanks IrishKev90 for your help.

[irishkev90]

That's great you figured it out, sounds like it was an easy fix. And you're welcome for the help. I try to lend some assistance as best I can. Hope the rest of the maintenance goes smooth for you.