I got the MSP struts installed today, and OMG, it is amazing. I am so happy, it rides so smooth. But my friend that was helping noticed something that I can't believe I never noticed. The endlinks holding the rear swaybar are completely broken, and that is why my rear end has been a little loose lately. So I ordered some new ones, but the earliest they can get here is Tuesday. Oh well, the day is still good for me.
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THE CLUNK IS GONE!!!!!but some bad news....
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THE CLUNK IS GONE!!!!!but some bad news....
2000 DX, Blue
Eibach Pro-Kit, MSP Struts, 16" Kosei's on Honkook Ventus HR-II's(205-45-16), MSP Exhaust, Injen CAI, MSP Strut Tower Bar, NGK Wires
2 JL Audio 10w3-d4's in a sealed box, Rockford 500s amp, 2 6x9 Pioneer Premier 4-ways, 2 6x8 Kenwood Excelon 3-ways, Rockford 301x amp, Pioneer Premier DEH-P650, Dynamat in some fun places.....Tags: None
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Are you running the stock swaybar or the upgraded MSP bar? If I were you'd I'd get the MSP swaybar or an AWR swaybar w/ upgraded endlinks to go along nicely w/ the new struts.Clint/1999 "Sport20"
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how much does the awr cost and where can I get it2000 DX, Blue
Eibach Pro-Kit, MSP Struts, 16" Kosei's on Honkook Ventus HR-II's(205-45-16), MSP Exhaust, Injen CAI, MSP Strut Tower Bar, NGK Wires
2 JL Audio 10w3-d4's in a sealed box, Rockford 500s amp, 2 6x9 Pioneer Premier 4-ways, 2 6x8 Kenwood Excelon 3-ways, Rockford 301x amp, Pioneer Premier DEH-P650, Dynamat in some fun places.....
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I bought mine last year from Protege5Online.com for $247...but the price may have changed since then. For pictures, check my AWR swaybar thread.Clint/1999 "Sport20"
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I think that if he's got the MSP struts, he should get the MSP sway bars. I know he won't be able to adjust the end blocks like you can on the AWR, but you won't be able to adjust the AWR bar when the the block hex nuts rust anyways. www.mazdastuff.com sells both swaybars for $360 while www.protege5online.com sells just the rear 21.5 AWR bar for $202. If I was you, I'd go with the MSP swaybars, your suspension will be equal on the front and back. This is all just my Opinion, and I own an AWR bar."In the end, it doesn't even matter" Linkin Park
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That is true. I have heard that the front bar will be a pain in the ass to install because it require you to drop the subframe. Either way you choose to do it...good luck.Clint/1999 "Sport20"
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how hard were the rears to put on???.....HELLO MY NAME IS BEN...
186.08whp
225.94wtq
torque monster!!!!
dyno graph 8-10-and 12psi
http://www.msprotege.com/members/THE...no%20graph.jpg
http://videos.streetfire.net/player....0-C19CA06AF01E dyno vid
blahblahblahblahblahblah
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Very easy as long as you can get the bolts off. They may be rusted on. There's one bolt on each of the struts, and two holding the swaybar to the subrame.
Then you just mount the new bar in reverse order.Clint/1999 "Sport20"
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yea but the key is if you can get the bolts off. It is a sonofabitch. My advise, if you plan on doing it, start WD-40ing it a couple days ahead, and do it every day.2000 DX, Blue
Eibach Pro-Kit, MSP Struts, 16" Kosei's on Honkook Ventus HR-II's(205-45-16), MSP Exhaust, Injen CAI, MSP Strut Tower Bar, NGK Wires
2 JL Audio 10w3-d4's in a sealed box, Rockford 500s amp, 2 6x9 Pioneer Premier 4-ways, 2 6x8 Kenwood Excelon 3-ways, Rockford 301x amp, Pioneer Premier DEH-P650, Dynamat in some fun places.....
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i was thinking a blow torch......HELLO MY NAME IS BEN...
186.08whp
225.94wtq
torque monster!!!!
dyno graph 8-10-and 12psi
http://www.msprotege.com/members/THE...no%20graph.jpg
http://videos.streetfire.net/player....0-C19CA06AF01E dyno vid
blahblahblahblahblahblah
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Originally posted by kopp0041
I've done that, started to strip the bolt, got out the butane torch, heated up the nut, pounded on the socket, and presto, got the nut off......HELLO MY NAME IS BEN...
186.08whp
225.94wtq
torque monster!!!!
dyno graph 8-10-and 12psi
http://www.msprotege.com/members/THE...no%20graph.jpg
http://videos.streetfire.net/player....0-C19CA06AF01E dyno vid
blahblahblahblahblahblah
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