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    Parking brake cable question

    I was trying to set my parking brake firmly the other day when I felt a snap and the lever lost all resistance. It turns out the front parking brake cable snapped right at the center equalizer where the 2 rear cables connect in. I guess I'm wondering how difficult it is to get the rear cables out of that equalizer. I don't see any bolts holding the cables in place; it seems like they sort of just slot in place. The heat shield is already gone, so the cables are accessible, though I'm hoping to do it without removing the exhaust. I'll purchase the front cable, the equalizer and the return spring (which is badly rusted). The only part which seems difficult will be getting the rear cables disconnected from that piece. If anyone has done this procedure, can you recommend any tips or tools which will help get them out? I've already soaked it in WD-40 and I'm hoping to tackle this tomorrow if Mazda has the parts in stock and the weather holds up. Here's a pic if it helps. The piece I'm referring to is at the end of #5, which I would assume comes pre-connected to the front cable.


    #2
    Yes, according to the FSM the equalizer should be part of the front cable assembly (5). I've never had to change it myself but, after a quick look under my car, it looks like once you have slack in the front cable it should be possible to slip the parking brake cable ends out of the equalizer, although it may be necessary to remove the clip (6) first. Since it's rusted, it's good that you're also replacing the return spring (4).

    Good luck and let us know how it works out.

    Happy Motoring!
    02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
    MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
    MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
    Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
    MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
    Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
    Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
    Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
    Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
    Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
    Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
    Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
    Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter

    Comment


      #3
      It ended up being a little too difficult to get done in the driveway. I just didn't have enough clearance under the vehicle to get any leverage prying the cables out of the old yoke. Having the exhaust in the way wasn't helping.

      A mechanic at work was able to put the car up on a lift and give me a hand freeing the cables. Just took a screwdriver, pliers and some swearing. Pretty much had to just pry the metal to get them out. Once the cables were free I did the rest myself. The rusted ends of the rear cables were a bit of a pain to get into the new yoke, but after some sanding, oil and more swearing I was able to slot them in.

      The rest was easy. Remove the center console (6 screws); remove the parking brake cable adjuster nut (10mm); unscrew the parking brake lever (2 12 mm bolts); slide the old cable out, attach the spring and slide the new one in.

      I'm glad I had access to a ramp for this. Not sure I'd have been able to do it on the driveway. For anyone trying it, I'd recommend being thorough in sanding down the rear cable ends and greasing them well.

      Thanks for the tips.

      Comment


        #4
        And thank you for the additional information, Natural. I'm sure it will be helpful for our members in need of replacing the parking brake cable.

        Happy Motoring!
        02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
        MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
        MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
        Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
        MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
        Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
        Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
        Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
        Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
        Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
        Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
        Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
        Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter

        Comment


          #5
          Awesome, thanks for the info man. Chances are you will never see this but how much did the parts cost you and where did you get them? From a dealership? Also, once you remove the center consol would I have to remove the brake as well or could I just poke the wire through from the bottom?

          Comment

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