GI: Tubular LCA's

[thymighty]

Cool, thanks guys.

Hindsight is a bitch... i shelled out many dollars for all new suspension hardware for this pig, and ended up using maybe.... 30% of it. Guess that should have been expected when there's no stock suspension parts on the car anywhere.

You forgot the part where you wanted to wire-brush and paint the old hardware.

Oh, and replacing that concave washer with a flat one shouldn't make a difference Ben. I tried to show you that when we installed it, but you were more concerned with the rust, LOL.
It might look like it in the picture, but that washer doesn't actually contact anything outside the center of the bushing.

[concealer404]

You forgot the part where you wanted to wire-brush and paint the old hardware.

Oh, and replacing that concave washer with a flat one shouldn't make a difference Ben. I tried to show you that when we installed it, but you were more concerned with the rust. LOL

I'm going to just remove the washer entirely like Ryan said.

[thymighty]

Meh, it's your race car.

EDIT: Just looked back at the pictures, and couldn't help but notice how nice those knuckles turned out!

[concealer404]

By "Ryan" i mean the guy that made the bushings, not Ryan Ryan.

Yeah the knuckles look good!

[concealer404]

Just as an update because i know you were all on the edge of your seats... i fixed the bushings (just had the sleeve in wrong on the passenger side) and removed the washers.

Now... the passenger one doesn't seem to want to tighten down all the way (because of the extra distance it has to go without the washer) and if i really crank it down, it doesn't move up and down freely.

I'm guessing the chassis is slightly tweaked.

Do i leave it not perfectly flush or do i put a flat washer behind it to take up the gap and align the rest of the weirdness out of it?

[JPmotorsports]

Are you talking about where the pin goes through the rear bushing? Is the gap on the front side or the back side (with the nut)?

[concealer404]

Are you talking about where the pin goes through the rear bushing? Is the gap on the front side or the back side (with the nut)?

I did word that incredibly badly, didn't i? :D

Yeah, the pin that goes through the rear bushing. The gap is NOT on the nut side of the bushing, but the side that faces the control arm.

[JPmotorsports]

I wonder if you put a small washer---something to bridge the gap but doesn't get past the center sleeve in the bushing---so it wont put any bind on the bushing race? I've got a couple set installed in the cars here---I'll take a look after work.

[concealer404]

I wonder if you put a small washer---something to bridge the gap but doesn't get past the center sleeve in the bushing---so it wont put any bind on the bushing race? I've got a couple set installed in the cars here---I'll take a look after work.

I don't think it would matter if it goes past the center sleeve... the center piece (Chamfered) sticks out further than the rest.

Unless we're talking about bind against the arm itself?

[JPmotorsports]

Gotcha, then the size wouldn't matter. I'd think the pin/arm will have to contact some part of the bushing sleeve to tighten down---and the center sleeve in the bushing should be pretty darn free to rotate, so we should be ok---I'll look again how I did it. With Ryan's bushing and the front rodend the arm should rock back and forth for about 25 minutes (!)...

[concealer404]

Gotcha, then the size wouldn't matter. I'd think the pin/arm will have to contact some part of the bushing sleeve to tighten down---and the center sleeve in the bushing should be pretty darn free to rotate, so we should be ok---I'll look again how I did it. With Ryan's bushing and the front rodend the arm should rock back and forth for about 25 minutes (!)...

Neither of mine are anywhere near that easy to me... but i also have everything mounted on the hub and such, so i'm lifting up my suspension when i'm looking for ease of movement. The passenger side is DEFINITELY harder even with almost a 1/8" gap between arm and sleeve. It's not a huge amount overall i don't think, considering there's a big difference between a small-ish dude like me trying to take up droop on a completely assembled suspension fighting race-valved Yellows, and how the car will react when on the ground in a setting where it'll never even really see droop.

[FE3-323]

please post a picture so i can have a visual of the issue.

[crazycanadian]

I am curious also.. I can't picture how Jims arms would cause a problem... I have Ryans bearings installed on a factory set of arms with out any problems..

[concealer404]

please post a picture so i can have a visual of the issue.

Will do tomorrow.

I am curious also.. I can't picture how Jims arms would cause a problem... I have Ryans bearings installed on a factory set of arms with out any problems..

I highly doubt it's the fault of Jim's arms or Ryan's bearings. This is on the bad side of the car, and the car has almost 300k miles.

[Georonimo]

Would swapping out the subframe / crossmember fix the problem? They made the ZX2 till 2003 so lowish mileage pieces are still out there. Just a thought.