GB: Pierce Motorsports rear strut bars

[JPmotorsports]

Jim!







Still need a total, so I can send payment.

Dang...Dang!!! So sorry Cody---crazy couple of weeks---my wifes mom/MIL has been having heart issues for the last few weeks and had a small heart attack (at the doctors office) last week---she's been having minor surgery/stints and what not and I've been in and out of the shop now for a while and it just slipped my mind. Good news is I made a set of lowers already so I can just knock out a set of uppers for you---I'll pm you a price ASAP!

[CODY004WD]

Oh no worries, it's all good! My best wishes and regards to the MIL. Talk to you soon.

[JSLEnterprises]

Excited that I'll be able to have it painted and in the car in time for Meet of the Mazda's.

This and custom leather seat covers (replaces OEM covers) are all I'm waiting for (as far as what's visible... still new clutch, bushings, and front sway bar still to go in... waiting for parts :/)

[JPmotorsports]

Excited that I'll be able to have it painted and in the car in time for Meet of the Mazda's.

This and custom leather seat covers (replaces OEM covers) are all I'm waiting for (as far as what's visible... still new clutch, bushings, and front sway bar still to go in... waiting for parts :/)

Johann your's is done---and will ship this weekend with the next batch of stuff---I'm putting in tabs and what not in case you want to weld them on at a later date---thanks again!

[CODY004WD]

Money sent.

[JPmotorsports]

Thanks Cody!

[bomdoutscort]

I have to say, this bar and all of these possibilites with it, is one of the best products i have seen for our bg chassis.

[CODY004WD]

The difference it has made is incredible too, I cannot wait to try the triangulation! By far this rear strut brace is my favorite brace, anywhere on these cars, I've tried yet.

[JPmotorsports]

Thanks guys, I agree---just have to keep it alive/generate options for folks.

[JPmotorsports]

JSL had me put a bunch of extra welds on his as I believe he intends to smooth them all out/blend them in---cool idea/looks beefier somehow...

[JSLEnterprises]

Now imagine it pearl white, with your logo colored in the red, gray, and blue, and then a chrome air tank hanging from it...
(Oh, and all the trim will still be in place, it's black)


Obligatory:

[Iantboyd]

Jim, a few questions here.

What are the dimensions of the bolts? I received the nuts and rod ends but no bolts.

Also, are the cross bars just standard carbon steel and mig'd or are they the same material and process as the actual strut bar? I ask because asthetically speaking they fall a bit short of the previous work. Strength wise I cant say, im sure its strong enough for the job but I don't see alot of stress on these pieces anyways.

Not trying to bust balls, just asking questions that may apply to a few of our sub frames.

[Iantboyd]

[JPmotorsports]

Hey Ian---I didn't even think about bolts---I remembered the jamnuts/rodends thank god---but didn't think about the bolts... They're 1/2" rodends, and I mentioned the lower tab on the strut bar would have to be drilled out to 1/2" (we drilled them to 3/8" I believe before we decided on the 1/2" rodends/larger size fit better) so you'll need 1/2" (grade 2 is fine) bolts for the lowers, my apologies! The tubing is chromoly and it's migged---we don't actually tig much at all here---we just did the strut bars for you guys/the group buy. The strength is like you said more than fine and we could have went with a thinner wall---we just had material left over from the strut bars so we used it---they're still super light though, I'd bet under a pound---or very close. As far as the quality/overall look of the welds here vs the rear subframes group buy---they'll be a substantial difference---the subframes are DOM/migged, and I've been doing all the welding myself---here's a pic of the subframes, and your right, there's a noticeable difference.

[Iantboyd]

Hey Ian---I didn't even think about bolts---I remembered the jamnuts/rodends thank god---but didn't think about the bolts... They're 1/2" rodends, and I mentioned the lower tab on the strut bar would have to be drilled out to 1/2" (we drilled them to 3/8" I believe before we decided on the 1/2" rodends/larger size fit better) so you'll need 1/2" (grade 2 is fine) bolts for the lowers, my apologies! The tubing is chromoly and it's migged---we don't actually tig much at all here---we just did the strut bars for you guys/the group buy. The strength is like you said more than fine and we could have went with a thinner wall---we just had material left over from the strut bars so we used it---they're still super light though, I'd bet under a pound---or very close. As far as the quality/overall look of the welds here vs the rear subframes group buy---they'll be a substantial difference---the subframes are DOM/migged, and I've been doing all the welding myself---here's a pic of the subframes, and your right, there's a noticeable difference.]

Thanks for the response Jim. No need to apologize for the bolts just wanted the specs, thanks. I do recall it being brought up about the drilling of the strut bar.

The cross bars indeed are light. Appreciate the hard work and community support. Look forward to more.