Well **** now I'm pissed. I just got an email from R/T saying the gz box was no longer available. Well this wouldn't be a problem if I ordered the 12" version because now it looks like I will be stuck with two 10" alpines. I ordered the alpines after R/T sent me a confirmation of the order and now today they say it will not be available. This ****ing sucks. And of course they won't answer their damn phones and neither will the people who I bought the subs from. I might just have to go through paypal and cancel payment.
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Well after calling R/T for about an hour straight trying to get a respones, I managed to get the 756-10 ordered.Comment
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dude, that sucks that they don't have the GZ box
that thing would've been perfect for a show box 
at least they were able to get the 756-10 for you, but it's still not the same. you should've bitched them out and at least gotten free shipping on it
i mean yeah you are saving $36 on the box, but it's still the inconvenience of not getting what you initially ordered 
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Yeah I was disappointed. The big problem was that the 10" subs were being shipped out today. And if they didn't have the 756-10 box then I would have been stuck with two 10" subs that I didn't want. I guess now I will just have to get creative with the amps for the show aspect. Maybe build a custom amp rack and angle them perfectly.Comment
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once again all i ask for is pics
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Oh believe me you will get pics. I spent too much damn money on this new system to not show it off. I might still try to get some neons in there somehow. Just not quite sure yet. It all really depends on how much room I have to work with. The goal is to have it completely finished and everything built that needs to be built by April. So once it gets warm I will start the construction of anything custom needed.Comment
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Alright I think this could be the last question about what to buy. What kind of wiring do you recommend. I figured some 4 gauge would do the trick, but what companies would you recommend? And also about how long will the wire need to be, if I were to mount the amps very far back in the trunk near the box?Comment
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best wires and best prices i've ever found
you're going to need 1/0 cable run from the front to the back, then use a distribution block to go to a 4 guage wire to each sub amp. you'll want something like this:
the amp shouldn't have over an 80 amp fuse, but check it. if it's 60, get dual 60 amp fuses. if it's higher, but 80 or less, get dual 80's.Comment
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Those are some damn good prices. So two 4 gauge amp kits and then the distribution block should do me.
But you are going to have to explain how I install the block because I have never seen one of those before.Comment
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Originally posted by Proto2k
no need for two of the 4 guage kits. you'll need about 18 foot of 1/0 cable going to the distibution block. then you'll need shorter pieces of 4 guage going from the block to the amps. you'll also need a bit of 4 guage from the amps to a grounding point. where you ground it you'll need some ring terminals. your also going to need some remote turn on wire, if the RCA's don't have it buit in. up front in the engine bay you'll need a set of battery terminals. you gotta have covered ones for many competition organizations. you'll also need a short run of 1/0 negative cable to go from the battery to the chassis. you'll also need an inline ANL fuse holder for up front. pick a fuse that's a little over the total amperage of both amps. from the head unit you'll need 1 set of RCA's running to the rear, then split it off to the 2 amps. i think that's about it. post links to everything you are looking at it, and i'll look it over
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Alright it's going to take me a few minutes to soak in all this info. I guess what confuses me is the way my current system is setup. I had Circuit City do the install on it, but I have been looking it over. There are three cables. I can tell where the power runs to the firewall, and I think I got an idea of where it comes out. Then I have a blue wire that was spliced into the wiring harness. And then a black wire which I'm assuming is the ground. Will I need two RCA cables, because where they connect to the amp they both go into an input.Comment
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Shopping List
18 Feet
2 Feet x2
4 Feet x2 (is 4 feet of wire enough to ground?)
2 Right?
Battery Terminals
Didn't see any 1/0 negative cables.
I guess this is what I need?
Need your recommendation for the RCA cables.
Distribution Block
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Originally posted by Proto2k
i would use the existing power wires for a 2 or 4 channel amp for your regular speakers. have the 1/0 dedicated for the sub amps. i've got the 1/0 for my power acoustik amp, and a seperate 4 guage for my 4 channel amp. right now i've got two 4 guage wires running from front to rear, and the 1/0 cable
the blue wire is a remote turn on lead. you might be able to just splice it into all the amps, but it's advisable to use a relay if you are using it to turn on more than 2 amps.
what is your plan for amping your regular speakers? if you use a 2 channel amp powering just a front set of components, which i would highly recomend, just use the RCA you've got in there for that. if you plan on using a 4 channel amp, you can get a 4 channel RCA cable, like this. then use your existing RCA cable for the sub signal, then split it with 2 of these.
i would order 20 feet of the 1/0 cable, just to be on the safe side. whatever is extra you can use to ground your battery up front, and ground your engine to the chassis. the cable is not positive/negative specific. typically blue or red is used for positive and black or silver is used for ground. for your color scheme, you can use the black and silver for both, as long as you don't mess up and hook them up backwards.
if you are going to use the black and silver rather than red and silver for your positive line, i'd go with this 4 guage from the distribution block to each amp. it'll keep the color scheme going.
ya know what? if you are going to use the black and silver for your positive line, and i'd recomend that, cause i'd go so well with your car, get 18 feet of it, and a foot of this for your ground from your battery to the chassis, and use get some extra plain silver 4 guage for an engine grounding kit you'll want at least the 4 feet per amp for in the trunk, then depending on how elaborate and engine ground kit you want will determine how much more.
for the 1/0 grounding for the battery, you'll want 1 of these. i highly recomend keeping the terminals the standard red and black, cause if someone else works on your car you don't want them to mess anything up. that terminal will be to bolt the end of the wire to the chassis. the other end will go into the battery terminals. which be careful with them. rider69 stripped his out, but i've heard of a lot of other people who haven't. use the 4 gauge holes for the stock wiring, or put a new ring terminal on them, which i would recomend, and run your other 4 guage positive wire into the 4 guage hole on the terminal.
you're going to need 2 of these to ground the amps in the trunk. if you are going to do an engine ground kit, you'll need a few more. if you run the stock wiring through the screw down post on the new battery terminals, you'll need one more for the factory ground wire. you'll also need one of these for the factory positive wire.
the ANL fuse holder will work fine. it's kind of big, and needs to be mounted close to the battery.
and that dist block will work great, and if you get creative with the install, you'll be able to see the volt meter and still keep things nice and neat
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I have been just using the headunit to power the door speakers.Comment
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Originally posted by Proto2k
you're going to need another 2 channel amp and a good set of components up front to keep up with the bass, otherwise you'll have too much bass, and not enough of anything else don't go that route, i had three 15's in my trunk with stock speakers even after i put some pioneer 3-ways in the front doors with 4-ways on the rear deck it still wasn't anything compared to having a set of components running off an amp up front
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