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The amp is rated at 1100W RMS, and I was told I need 1/0 gauge for it. So, to save money, I would just add one more 4 gauge wire and a fuse, but two fuses in parallel doesn't seem like a good idea. They would have to burn at the same instant for the system to be safe, but that's unlikely. That's why I'm having doubts.
If one fuse burned out, it would instantly double the power to the other one and burn it out too. Wouldn't that be safe enough for the amp? Probably no cheaper than doing it the other way, but it should work.
Lil Freek, how much are you thinking of selling it for?
Update:
I got a set of CCFL lights for the new enclosure.
I'll be finishing the box tomorrow, although I still don't know when I'm gonna have the second subwoofer, and I'm still not sure how to proceed with the wiring....
im not to familiar with the e12K.44 .. but arnt they and the dayton dvc pretty mucht eh same thign?
yeah they are very similar.
for the wiring, keep in mind that two 4 guage cables is still less than one 1/0 cable. however two 4 guage cables should be plenty, but you're gonna need to get a 4 guage kit for about $30, a distribution block to combine the 4 guage cables for say $15. for under $70 shipped you can have a complete 0 guage kit that will support your sub amp and will have plenty of head room for if you get another amp.
0 guage will support up to 300 amps, but i wouldn't run more than 250 through it. then use your current 4 guage wire to split off the distribution block that comes with the kit to your sub amp, and any other amp you might want to add
I was wondering if my amp accepts 0 gauge wire. What if it doesn't?
Get a distribution block. For lots of money. In fact, get a distribution block with fuses in it instead of spending the $20/fuse you were talking about earlier.
I was wondering if my amp accepts 0 gauge wire. What if it doesn't?
it doesn't accept 0 guage input. but if you got the kit i posted, it comes with a distribution block, non-fused, though. look at the top left of the packaging from the picture. left is dist block, right is fuse holder. otherwise i can get you a 1/0 to 4 guage adapter
If one fuse burned out, it would instantly double the power to the other one and burn it out too. Wouldn't that be safe enough for the amp? Probably no cheaper than doing it the other way, but it should work.
Lil Freek, how much are you thinking of selling it for?
I dunno.. probably like 50-60 or something.
It really depends where i can find a nicely priced cat-back exhaust... shipping stuff to canada is pricey.
if i have enough left over, i'm going to buy th e12A.22 right away.. if not, i'll have to wait until late June...
yep. you could run 4 guage all the way back for it, but you'll get a nasty voltage drop
I got the 0 gauge wiring kit, but I don't plan on using it right away. I'll monitor voltages, temperatures, etc. and if I don't see a reason for upgrading to 0 gauge, I'lll just keep the 4 gauge. People on several other forums said I'll be fine with 4 gauge, but I have to get a bigger fuse.
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