Having problems relocating the fuse box.

[Brahma15]

THe problem here is, it seems the bundle of wires going to the fuse box are very short. When I try to move the box up in the dash/firewall area the wire bundle wont let me because its so short. What am I going to do?

Am I going to have cut the wires and splice some extentions?

[blue LEDz]

did you disconnect all the fastening points? rider69 would probably be of better assistance for this.

[Brahma15]

did you disconnect all the fastening points? rider69 would probably be of better assistance for this.

Are you talking about the fastening points where the door sills are? If so , yes I have, not much help really.

[Brahma15]

did you disconnect all the fastening points? rider69 would probably be of better assistance for this.

double post

[blue LEDz]

Are you talking about the fastening points where the door sills are? If so , yes I have, not much help really.

all the fasteners for the wires to hold them secure. just try to find out exactly what is holding you up.

[Brahma15]

all the fasteners for the wires to hold them secure. just try to find out exactly what is holding you up.

If I get all the fasteners will that give me enough slack to run the fuse box higher up on the firewall so it wont be noticable?

[SQProtege]

Ok this is only post number 2 for me, but this one I can help you with, but first I will say whatz up to everyone and I love this site. I had/still have a 91 Tracer that I have rebuilt 90% of the inside of the car you can see it on my website which will be replaced soon with my new 94 Protege LX website. I have been doing caraudio for a very long time. Ok now to the topic

To do it right you will need to cut every wire coming from the rear of the car and extend them, this will make it easy to move the fuse box higher up under the dash. If you don't if you try to move it, it will just pull on all the wires coming from the rear. The another wires under the dash have a enough length ot work with. I've done it to the tracer and will be doing it to the Protege very soon. This allows for a lot more room for my Kick panels. Good luck!

Whatz Blue LEDz seen you around the carsound forum.

[Brahma15]

Alright, thanks. I will try to pull the wires up before i cut and splice, my god I really hope I dont have to do this!!

Thanks!

[blue LEDz]

Whatz Blue LEDz seen you around the carsound forum.

yeah, i venture over there quite a bit


i don't believe rider69 had to extend any wires in his car. his was moved up enough to have some nice shallow kicks, rather than my ungodly huge ones


edit: if you do have to cut and exten them, use solder and shrink wrap

[asylum24]

dude shrink wrap is the most bad ass stuffever lol

[Rider69]

Ok, you do not have to cut and splice any wires to be able to move the box up into the dash! If I remember correctly I did have to release some slack from the bundles to move it though which was basically just removing some of the "tape" that holds soe of the wires together. In essence, you have all these wires on that side for the fuse panel among other things. THey are bundled together at the factory for space reason. If you trace some of the wires back you can find enough places to remove them from the rest of the bundle and then push the Fuse panel up.

[SQProtege]

Well here is the thing. If you are going to use a small driver in the kicks you will have enough room to move it a little. But, if you are going to use a 6.5 in the kick as I did you will need to extend the wires. I still say if you extend the wires it makes it easyer to move the fuse box around. Yes its more work and a pain in the rear-end, but the end results are great. One thing I 've learned over the years in Car Audio and life in general the easy way is not always the best way. It works, but with it limits. And please yes solder and heat shrink wrap all the wires as Blue LEDz stated for a nice clean look, but don't cut and solder/heat shrink all the wires in the same spot doing them in different spots helps keep the run of wires neater and thinner.

Another thing that helps is to not seal the kicks totally. Vent then in the opening behind the kick panels or act least into the carpet. The benfits of this will very from driver to driver, but it helps to give the driver more room to operate. This helps to increase midbass output and tightness, also helps to clean the midrange area up. Are you planning on put the tweeters in the kick also?

Not trying to step on anyones toes here (being a newbie to this forum)These are things that some of the most respected people in car audio I have work with and talked with have recommanded to me over the years and I have tried/tested and know these things work. These things have work for them and they have worked for the cars I have built with kick panels.

[Rider69]

SQPro...Your input is greatly appreciated and welcome to the club. I hope your "toes" comment was not directed at me as I can definatley see the benefits in lengthenign the wires. IF it was, no problem as I was only stating the way I did mine. I only have the 4 & Tweets in my kicks so they are not that huge. I wanted to maintain some foot room. My 6.5 is in the doors. I would love to have the $$, time and patience to build an all out competition vehicle. But there are other things more important right now.

[blue LEDz]

Not trying to step on anyones toes here (being a newbie to this forum)These are things that some of the most respected people in car audio I have work with and talked with have recommanded to me over the years and I have tried/tested and know these things work. These things have work for them and they have worked for the cars I have built with kick panels.

don't worry about stepping on toes if you can back up what you are saying we are all learning, including myself.

i'm still trying to decide if i'm going to rebuild my kicks in my protege, or focus on an SQ or an SPL vehicle for competition. my protege will not work for either at this point well, not without a lot of work.

i'm looking into venting my next set of kicks for my protege to the fender well. i've heard when properly done the benefits are great, especially when using an AP membrane.

good point about spacing out the splices. it's second nature to me, so i forget to tell people to do it.

i'm going to have to talk to you more when i get ready to build an SQ vehicle. do you know dave cameron? he's dacinokc on here. i'm still waiting on his mazdaspeed to be finished i'm crossing my fingers and hoping it'll be at SVR this year, since i'm planning on being at that show.

[SQProtege]

Sorry Rider69, It wasn't directed at you or anyone. I just don't like to come across as a know it all, some people don't take thing like that very well. Thanks for the welcome.

Blue ledz I can't say I do know dave cameron, but It seem like I have seen his name somewhere. I'm shotting to have my Protege ready for SVR also. I had to kill the tracer project the car had to many problems to were there before I starting work on the car. I fhought I could fix them as I work on the car, but had no luck and wasted more then a few thousand dollars at the same time. This is way I bought the Protege. And as the Protege kick it up a big notch from the traceer I'm also kicking up the system a little. Hope to see you there. And yes using AP membranes work great, put takes some work to get just right. Using fiberglass installation in between to speaker grills or better some nice metal mesh with a lot of open area is the easy way to do it. By adding or removing the fiberglass installation, you tune it to get the correct sound. Just be sure to protect the fiberglass installation from water as much as you can if this is the way you go.