Best Sub, for the $$

[Lenny]

Thanks Blue and Rider!

Let me get this right now....So the E12k.14 (SVC) w/ the 400.2 bridged. Perfect???? Vented box or Sealed?


Wanna get it right soo I don't **** up!
Thanks guys, I owe... idunno what but I owe ya.

[walight01]

board donations are always nice

[blue LEDz]

i personally am a huge fan of ported boxes, but not prefab ported boxes, ones designed specifically for the sub but misterT's dual 12 K-series setup sounds nice if you want a sweet ported box, and can make one, or have someone you know make one, they show the dimensions and what not for a very well designed ported box on thier site designed for the K12

[Rider69]

Blue is a big fan of ported boxes and I can see why. But my feelings on the box is determined by:
1. How much room you want to take up?
2. More SQ or SPL?

I have a sealed box and the response is tight and low. I can get excellent results by going ported, but that would require a larger box and I don't want that now. So, if you answer the 2 questions above, we could better answer your question.

[Lenny]

SQ/SPL??? Hey I just want it to sound nice? nothing great, you know. I did cabinetmaking for college so I was planning on making on of the boxes sealed/ported that they had on the site. Just with the reg. MDF board. Unless some other wood makes it sound better?? I wanna be able to hit the lows good and I'm assuming youwould go w/ a ported box for that???

[blue LEDz]

SQ is sound quality (how good it sounds). SPL is sound pressure lever (how loud it is). sealed boxes have the advantage of having nice clean sound, especially in the mid bass region (about 70-100+ hz) in a smaller box. however, ported boxes are WAY better for real bass, below 70 hz, and have much better low frequency response, and once the response curve levels out, the sub performs as if it was in a sealed box anyways the downside to ported, is to make it sound good, it has to be tuned low, and the port has to be big, making the box a bit bigger than sealed. so if you want it to sound nice, and slam on the lows, i highly recomend the design they have on their website for a ported box. it's an SQ oriented slot port design that will have pretty much zero port noise and yes, MDF is what you need to use. for high SPL apps, some use HDF, but it is not needed, just use really strong glue or liquid nails to hold the boards together if you want to see how intruder from proclub did the same basic setup, check this out:

http://www.protegeclub.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=28093

[walight01]

Originally posted by blue LEDz
i personally am a huge fan of ported boxes, but not prefab ported boxes, ones designed specifically for the sub but misterT's dual 12 K-series setup sounds nice if you want a sweet ported box, and can make one, or have someone you know make one, they show the dimensions and what not for a very well designed ported box on thier site designed for the K12

well actually you are a huge fan of 6th order bandpass boxes now

[blue LEDz]

Originally posted by walight01
well actually you are a huge fan of 6th order bandpass boxes now

yeah, but they are a bit more complicated to design and build, and aren't for everyone i'm also playing around with the idea of using a dual chamber reflex box. basically a ported box that has 2 chambers, and the split design gives a peak at the main tuned freq, and one octave above it

[MisterT]

Lenny, if you haven't already gotten your subs, just want to tell you that when I got my 12's I was thinking damn, I could have gone with 10's and had more flexibility. I was sold on 12s do to already having an enclosure, but my first initial reaction was, this may be a little too much bass for even me (one for SPL and SQ). So either way whether you get their 10s or 12s, you won't be disappointed. I NEVER buy something unless I can try it out or hear them in this case first. It was a chance taken when Blue and Rider suggested it and now I am a believer in the value of these subs and the quality build. Also, if you won't a LOT of bass with only one driver, **** man, look at what Blue did with a single 10. It sounds louder than my 2 12s!! It's all in the enclosure.

Blue is going to make me a ported box where the box is ported around 34-35 Hz for good SPL and SQ. The best SQ would be tuned to around 25Hz, but if tuned higher, then you get more SPL, so it's a nice compromise of the two. Plus when you go with a ported enclosure, your subs can sound loud with less power given to them.

[blue LEDz]

i should have that box done for you this week it'll give me something to work on while i let the fiberglass harden on my stuff

[MisterT]

The bad thing is, is that I can't lift any thing over 10lbs. for the next couple of weeks or so. I am still considering the possibility of using the big amp in my current system to run my highs and getting a new amp for the subs. In a way, I wish I didn't go for the DVCs because it narrows the chances of getting a good amp that is both powerful and stable to at least 1 ohm without costing an arm and a leg! On the flipside, I could wire them so that the amp sees a 4 ohm load, but then, I would have to get a huge amp that would put enough power in the 4 ohm configuration. I can see myself, "Yeah the amp puts out 500 watts in a 4 ohm load, but damn, if these were SVCs, I would be getting around 900!!! Plus it has to be Class D for as much efficiency as possible. SoundDomain is having a sale on stiffening caps, now that I know they don't do any thing Oh well!

[Lenny]

Blue!

Hey blue do you have pics or diagram or your box setup?
I'm going w/ the E12.k.14 and the 400.2 amp bridged in a ported box. Sound good. I don't need a power cap do I? or should I?

[blue LEDz]

Re: Blue!

Originally posted by Lenny
Hey blue do you have pics or diagram or your box setup?
I'm going w/ the E12.k.14 and the 400.2 amp bridged in a ported box. Sound good. I don't need a power cap do I? or should I?

no diagrams, and only one pic:


the box has one chamber that's 1.25 cu ft, and one that's 1.5 cu ft, so that's 2.75 internal cu ft. but external volume is over 4 cu ft it's a huge box for one 10, but misterT will verify how loud it is all the walls are 1.5" thick for super strength:p: once i'm finished with my new box, i'm going to jack my mom's big ass truck up and set it on my old box you'll be plenty satisfied with the K12 and the amp i highly recomend the ported design on thier website, because it truely is one of the only manufacturer recomended designs that i approve of:p: and no, you don't need a cap. i know misterT has been battling with dimming problems for a while now, and he's done everything short of getting a bigger alternator or a new amp ground wire kit up front, 1.5 farad cap, proper wiring to the amps, adding a wire from the alternator to the fuse box and battery, upgraded to a spiral cell battery. so, no, don't bother with a cap

[Lenny]

your my boy blue!

j/k, hey thanks for all the help, everyone(walight,blue, Mr. T. etc...) I'll probably have a few more questions once I get everything, I'll check around on the board first then ask, so be prepared.

Thank you,
Matt

[MisterT]

FYI, a guy from another club got a single EDesign 12k.44 (DVC) and got a Tsunami amp and had it bridged and had no dimming problems in his Protege. I really think it's the class A inefficiency that is sucking so much current from the battery. I put my Class A on one sub bridged and it dimmed whether one or two subs was hooked up. So with the Tsunaum and Avionixx amps, they are more efficient than the SoundStream amp that I have. I have a 1.5 farad cap and it does little (if any) help at all. It was in my previous two installs so that is the only reason for it in my present one. I am thinking of redoing the system by putting the amp pushing the subs on the highs and midbass and getting a Tsunami or Avionixx amp to run the subs since it is more efficient. I almost purchased a 3+ farad capacitor before the thread on how they don't work (thinking maybe my cap was going or something). Glad I didn't waste the money!