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    #16
    hhhmmmm, gonna have to research that. I always thought of it as more of a piggy back to the existing ecu, just modding the fuel/air/timing and other performance minded areas, obtaining the max from the motor w/o physical mods.
    The T3 BP MX-3 conversion has begun, and is taking forever & will kill me.

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      #17
      I have an e6k, its the same as the e6x minus a couple features. Its a FULL standalone. MY stock ecu is just sitting there unplugged and i drive my car everyday.
      00 dakota 4x4
      90 crx si - ls/vtec

      Comment


        #18


        Its the way to go man
        Joe H
        2000 Chevy Impala
        3400 3.4 Liter V6
        Fun Times

        Fenderwell Intake w/ K&N Cone,
        U-Bend Delete, Resonator Delete,
        Flowmaster 40, Hi-Flow Cat, Optima Redtop

        Comment


          #19
          but my question is if you had stuff like cruise and other crap, you would still need the ECU right?

          And Haltech really is worth it if you can spare it.
          The T3 BP MX-3 conversion has begun, and is taking forever & will kill me.

          Comment


            #20
            Does cruise control even need the ECU? I thought it ran off vacuum
            Joe H
            2000 Chevy Impala
            3400 3.4 Liter V6
            Fun Times

            Fenderwell Intake w/ K&N Cone,
            U-Bend Delete, Resonator Delete,
            Flowmaster 40, Hi-Flow Cat, Optima Redtop

            Comment


              #21
              Originally posted by Joe99Es
              Does cruise control even need the ECU? I thought it ran off vacuum
              I would have thought that the speed would be regulated by the ecu or something.... I know thats how some OBD-II cars work at least... Still learning all the ins and outs of ODB-I
              The T3 BP MX-3 conversion has begun, and is taking forever & will kill me.

              Comment


                #22
                OBD-1 Pwns 2
                Joe H
                2000 Chevy Impala
                3400 3.4 Liter V6
                Fun Times

                Fenderwell Intake w/ K&N Cone,
                U-Bend Delete, Resonator Delete,
                Flowmaster 40, Hi-Flow Cat, Optima Redtop

                Comment


                  #23
                  What about OBD-0 and OBD-2.5?

                  2.5 blows from what I have heard.... major pita.

                  OBD-0 sux as well b/c runs off of more vacuum related junk than OBD-1
                  The T3 BP MX-3 conversion has begun, and is taking forever & will kill me.

                  Comment


                    #24
                    OBD-1 Is the perfect balance and combination... OBD-2 just pushes it over the edge, never heard of the 2.5
                    Joe H
                    2000 Chevy Impala
                    3400 3.4 Liter V6
                    Fun Times

                    Fenderwell Intake w/ K&N Cone,
                    U-Bend Delete, Resonator Delete,
                    Flowmaster 40, Hi-Flow Cat, Optima Redtop

                    Comment


                      #25
                      eh... i posted this in the other of your double posts so here it is again....

                      how much boost do you need to run?
                      if you're using the gtr oem computer did you know that you have maps to 18psi.... that's a lot of hp and torque.

                      if you want more than that you are gonna spend money on injectors and a standalone. There are a lot of options - Haltech, Autronic, Motec, Microtech, AEM, jeez there's about a million different ems producers out there. I personally have the new Microtech LT10s.

                      None of these will manage your engine as well as the oem computer so I would suggest that you set your boost controller for 18psi first and see if it's what you're after before throwing money at a project that could be a waste of time....Don't forget the cost of dyno time with a standalone.
                      Last edited by Stefan; 03-23-2005, 04:02 PM.

                      Comment


                        #26
                        Originally posted by Stefan
                        eh... i posted this in the other of your double posts so here it is again....

                        how much boost do you need to run?
                        if you're using the gtr oem computer did you know that you have maps to 18psi.... that's a lot of hp and torque.

                        if you want more than that you are gonna spend money on injectors and a standalone. There are a lot of options - Haltech, Autronic, Motec, Microtech, AEM, jeez there's about a million different ems producers out there. I personally have the new Microtech LT10s.

                        None of these will manage your engine as well as the oem computer so I would suggest that you set your boost controller for 18psi first and see if it's what you're after before throwing money at a project that could be a waste of time....Don't forget the cost of dyno time with a standalone.

                        if i can get the $ for an e6x edis is my next goal
                        00 dakota 4x4
                        90 crx si - ls/vtec

                        Comment


                          #27
                          Originally posted by ne3ek
                          if i can get the $ for an e6x edis is my next goal
                          I'd say LSD before that

                          put it to the ground before tuning for more power.
                          The T3 BP MX-3 conversion has begun, and is taking forever & will kill me.

                          Comment

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