Swap Begins: Escort GT -> Escort GTX

[elscotto80]

If you need it that bad, send money and I can get it out tomorrow or tuesday.

[Lex]

Well ECU won't reset so it's def dead - elscotto, PM sent.

[redfox]

when you disconnect the battery do both terminals and tun your headlights on...it will drain the power much better then pumping your brakes...id say give it a good hour or 2 then give her another shot....cant hurt anything...

[Lex]

yeah, I'll try that one more time - my A/F gauge reads stoich when the keys are in the ON position which is really weird - it wasnt reading anything before without the engine running ... is there a specific fuse for the computer? I checked my other fuses and they seem intact

[elscotto80]

Pmed you back.

[ne3ek]

ya good luck bro..

but another note is that the ecu sends out the same signal no matter what injectors it uses. It doesn't matter if they are low or high, thats what the resistor box is for to compensate.

[Lex]

Well, figured out the ECU and it's back ... well sorta. The car started fine in the garage and I let it idle. It was doing so fine, with no black smoke. It also had a nice throttle response at idle with no black smoke. Then I turned it off and tried to turn it on again - it wouldn't start at all after quite a bit of crancking. So I thought its a fuel issue (not enough fuel). I dont have a fuel pressure gauge but I manually opened the VAF in the ON position and my walbro pump seems to work well. You can hear fuel passing inside the fuel rail quite clearly. But it still wont start and this is an issue Ive been dealing with from the start.

I put the injector resistor box back in and took it back out and it made no difference. I am frustrated as to what it can be ... too much or too little fuel??

My setup is full GTX motor with a walbro fuel pump and a BTM not installed yet. Running a starion front mount intercooler and stock EGT exhaust with GTX downpipe. My computer is stock GT. VAF is RX-7.

I also pulled my error codes and they are the thermostat and VICS. I taped VICS as suggested and it still throws a CEL. Anyways, the car should run (and start) with that CEL on there.

[EscortNation]

Well, figured out the ECU and it's back ... well sorta. The car started fine in the garage and I let it idle. It was doing so fine, with no black smoke. It also had a nice throttle response at idle with no black smoke. Then I turned it off and tried to turn it on again - it wouldn't start at all after quite a bit of crancking. So I thought its a fuel issue (not enough fuel). I dont have a fuel pressure gauge but I manually opened the VAF in the ON position and my walbro pump seems to work well. You can hear fuel passing inside the fuel rail quite clearly. But it still wont start and this is an issue Ive been dealing with from the start.

I put the injector resistor box back in and took it back out and it made no difference. I am frustrated as to what it can be ... too much or too little fuel??

My setup is full GTX motor with a walbro fuel pump and a BTM not installed yet. Running a starion front mount intercooler and stock EGT exhaust with GTX downpipe. My computer is stock GT. VAF is RX-7.

I also pulled my error codes and they are the thermostat and VICS. I taped VICS as suggested and it still throws a CEL. Anyways, the car should run (and start) with that CEL on there.

Check your piping and try the stock escort maf

[redfox]

tighten up all of your piping connecters....you may have a leak somewhere...

[Lex]

I am fairly sure the RX7 VAF works as the resistances I measured across its terminals are similar to those on the Escort one. I can always try it on there and see what happens

The thing is that it is not normal for the car not to start and not normal for it to bog down at a couple of psi. When it doesn't start it doesn't smell like gas - so it doesn't look like flooding. I am thinking that perhaps I am low on fuel overall. It usually starts up after it has been sitting for a while - once it runs for a while, it won't start back up.

After the car warms up idling the A/F gauge reads stoich - is that what other people see on that gauge? (I know its not accurate)

If it is fuel starved - why would it be so - here's another small piece of the puzzle. I teed the BTM (the BTM is not wired in right now) off the purge control solenoid vacuum line before the check valve - which means that the charcoal canister may never be seeing vacuum if the BTM does not have a check valve for vacuum. I just realized this now and its too late to try it out tomorrow, but I will remove the BTM tee. Anyone know if the charcoal canister not seeing vacuum can cause fuel delivery issues?

Eventually I will get a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail and see what's going on - but like I said before - by jumping the VAF while the key is in the ON position, I can hear plenty of fuel coming across the fuel rail.

Or perhaps bad spark? As for the spark - I am taking the cap and rotor off tomorrow and double checking them ... the spark plugs I am using are 6 heat range NGKs - the same ones the GTX uses.

[swalltr207jg]

check all your piping and your vac lines, sounds like it could be a loose pipe, or one of your vac lines is leaking, or loose, also check the line that goes to the wastegate actuator, if its loose your car wont run right. it'll start right up for a sec then die immediately. If your line to the wastegate actuator isnt on tight you'll have the same problem. On my setup I found that the wastegate actuator line tends to blow off if not tightened down like a mofo

[elscotto80]

Got your PM, hope it works out. Like everyone has said, check timing and hoses, the have a tendency to blow off.

"500 posts.. hehehhhe"
sorry had to do it .

[ne3ek]

i know thi sia dump question but you have the tube for the bac hooked into your intake pipe right?

[Lex]

Hey Pat, I'm having a hard time understanding your question - the tube for the bac? What is that?

In the intake pipe I have the wastegate with a tee for the boost gauge and the BOV that is recirculated

[Lex]

Just to clarify, the intake pipe I am talking about is before the throttle body and after the intercooler.

When the car is not starting - it doesn't start at all. It just crancks and crancks ... but it usually does this after it has just been running. The first time I start it after it has been sitting for a while, it usually starts