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why not? im going on a year and a half boosted in my daily driver, the only real problem i had was a blown turbo but it was ****ed when i got my engine... 16psi for a year and a half now no real problems other then minor stupid self inflicted things...
soon as i finish cleaning up my 323 i will be striping my protege and driving the 323
What I mean is, have a backup car/source of transportation avaible. A lot of downtime should be predicted so you are not rushing anything.
Motor (duh)
G-series Tranny
G series Axles
Half or Intermediate shaft from protege LX
Speedo cable from protege LX
ECU (NA BP w/ piggy back or standalone)
Intercooler
intercooler piping & couplers
boost controller (MBC or EBC)
A/F gauge
boost gauge
EGT gauge
at least 2.5in Exhaust piping, mandrel bent
muffler
RX7/Walboro 255l/p/h fuel pump
bov
Oil, filter, spark plugs.... pretty much all of the extras that GroHarlem so nicely listed in his Motor swap guide (Thanks to Will).
List I made from an earlier thread.
I got all but a few items listed there.
As you go it will increase and your bank accounts will decrease significantly.
i think i had a down time of 4 days... do it in the summer, take vacation, plan **** out, get help, do it right the first time and dont cut corners... do this and you will be more then fine
Would it be better for me to just get the B6T instead, I know it doesn't make the same power, but the initial cost of the motor and tranny is less, and it should be an easier swap to do.
I really like the idea of the BPT swap, but for time purposes, it might be a better idea to go with the B6T.
What do you guys think. I have a complete set of "instructions" for a B6T swap if that's a better route for my purposes. Not to mention I get the 4WD tranny with the motor, which should with-stand up to 350hp from what I've read on 323performance.
Dude. Who told you that the B6T tranny holds 350 hp? I've seen them bust wide open with 190 behind em. The BPT AWD trans is in my experience a lot stronger (3 stage rallies and a couple rallyx's and mine's still holding up fine), and you WANT the viscous centerdiff. And I know cold that in any case unless you have all 4 wheels driven you can't run the AWD trans. Doing that conversion to a standard 323 ain't for the faint of heart either. I'd go with the BPT, the output you can get from one of those is more reliable. The GTR motor would be better yet if you can find one. In any case, I've had the b6t engine/trans in my GTX swapped out for BPT stuff for several years now and there's no way I'd switch back. Get the BPT motor, put a NA Protege head on it, run all BPT engine harness and ecu and such, run the 2nd gen rx7 turbo AFM, open up the exhaust and intake, run something like an fcon to handle fuel, turn the boost to 15-16psi, and enjoy the ~230 or so ponies.
Dude. Who told you that the B6T tranny holds 350 hp? I've seen them bust wide open with 190 behind em. The BPT AWD trans is in my experience a lot stronger (3 stage rallies and a couple rallyx's and mine's still holding up fine), and you WANT the viscous centerdiff. And I know cold that in any case unless you have all 4 wheels driven you can't run the AWD trans. Doing that conversion to a standard 323 ain't for the faint of heart either. I'd go with the BPT, the output you can get from one of those is more reliable. The GTR motor would be better yet if you can find one. In any case, I've had the b6t engine/trans in my GTX swapped out for BPT stuff for several years now and there's no way I'd switch back. Get the BPT motor, put a NA Protege head on it, run all BPT engine harness and ecu and such, run the 2nd gen rx7 turbo AFM, open up the exhaust and intake, run something like an fcon to handle fuel, turn the boost to 15-16psi, and enjoy the ~230 or so ponies.
Wow! That was quite a bit of information. People like to rag on people like me who ask these questions when threads and this info have already been addressed, but truthfully, this information changes, people experience new problems and gains that they didn't put into another, older thread, so by my creating this thread, it's brought about new information by revisiting this topic, so to those of you who get tired of the same things being asked, this is a testimate to why it's okay to ask the same questions. Again, if you don't like the same questions being asked, stay the hell out of the thread. I have learned a great deal from this thread, even more than what I learned by doing a search, so thank you to those who responded to my cry for help.
once you boost, you'll never ever go back.
The bpt w/ FMIC good tuning & a turbo exhintake cam is capable to see 250WHP without issues.
I personally reccomend you replace the factory dump pipe for a real downpipe. flow is greatly hindered @ that point. larger exhaust & a good intake are also plus's
There are many possible updgrades from the stock Bpt system. if you want reliable everyday boost i reccomend using a GTX wiring & ECU system.
I'd be surprised to see 250 whp with a bpt set up as you describe. My rallycar has pretty much exactly that setup. When the GTR protege from hell was on the dyno, baselining at 240whp, it was much faster than the rallycar... and now that it's tuned properly it ain't even a fair comparison. The stock vj20 turbo is too damn small to get those numbers I think, and it starts running out of steam at about 6000rpm, unable to continue to push 16 psi and that's with a freaking huge FMIC out of a saab 9000. OTOH there's hardly any lag with the mods you list so that's why I still have the stock turbo. When you come into a corner too hot you gotta be able to get power down, right this instant, to oversteer out of the predicament....future mods for the rallycar include some manner of garret, bigger injectors, and a better ecu. I'd like very much to see 250 whp in that thing.. it ain't been dyno'd but it feels like it's in the 200- range.
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