Megasquirt Ignition Advance Maps

[MD323]

what motor? boosted? N/A? megasquirt version? details man details

[bcowie]

Bp boosted with a vj 17 hybrid
Ms 3 I think

[mazdasly75]

Here's an update of mine. The setup:
-BP bored to 2.0L
-ported and polish head
-ported combustion head
-Supertech piston 9:1, dropped down to 8:7 (combustion head port)
-BKR7E plugs gapped 0.025"
-MSD HVC ignition
-Ramhorn turbo manifold
-GT3076R turbo @ 25 psi
-274 in/ex cams with 8deg overlap
-idle MAP is 34



And here's my target AFR



This is a tuned map, using G-Tech pro, LC1 wideband, autometer pyrometer and audible knock tool unit. I've found the max power is reached while the pyrometer shows 1450F, and as for cruise 36 degrees is the spot for fuel economy. 12.5:1 @ idle is set to drop down quickly the manifold turbo temperature and in my case I reach 750-800F after only 10-15sec of idle.

I'd like you to be careful especially with VJ23. Once you pass 6500rpm at high boost, it comes out of it's MAP and being inefficient, boosted air start to heat and combustion temp as well. You'll see 1600F @ 20 psi and you should drop the AFR down to 10.8:1-11:1 to protect the engine from melting a piston. Thrust me I've learned the bad way...When I bought my familia, I remember stock ECU was running the engine 10:1 @ 20 psi...there was a reason behind that, it was to lower the combustion temp. Too small advance will make the engine run very hot and too much advance will make the engine run cooler, as long as you enrich the fuel enough to protect the engine from knocking. Past 20psi, the last thing you should care is max engine output, but longevity.

[yunvmyegt]

heres mine on corn for the hell of it...

[bcowie]

Does your map stay at 34 at idle?
Mine moves up and down by about 2

[mazdasly75]

Yeah it move +/- 1, everything's normal though. To get perfect idle PWM idle valve, injection time and ignition advance must be constant. If one of these value moves idle will.

[bcowie]

Ok
I fixed the ig timing at 10 deg at idle so its not that.
Ill check the injection time and make sure its contact.

[b19gtr]

Here's an update of mine. The setup:
-BP bored to 2.0L
-ported and polish head
-ported combustion head
-Supertech piston 9:1, dropped down to 8:7 (combustion head port)
-BKR7E plugs gapped 0.025"
-MSD HVC ignition
-Ramhorn turbo manifold
-GT3076R turbo @ 25 psi
-274 in/ex cams with 8deg overlap
-idle MAP is 34



And here's my target AFR



This is a tuned map, using G-Tech pro, LC1 wideband, autometer pyrometer and audible knock tool unit. I've found the max power is reached while the pyrometer shows 1450F, and as for cruise 36 degrees is the spot for fuel economy. 12.5:1 @ idle is set to drop down quickly the manifold turbo temperature and in my case I reach 750-800F after only 10-15sec of idle.

I'd like you to be careful especially with VJ23. Once you pass 6500rpm at high boost, it comes out of it's MAP and being inefficient, boosted air start to heat and combustion temp as well. You'll see 1600F @ 20 psi and you should drop the AFR down to 10.8:1-11:1 to protect the engine from melting a piston. Thrust me I've learned the bad way...When I bought my familia, I remember stock ECU was running the engine 10:1 @ 20 psi...there was a reason behind that, it was to lower the combustion temp. Too small advance will make the engine run very hot and too much advance will make the engine run cooler, as long as you enrich the fuel enough to protect the engine from knocking. Past 20psi, the last thing you should care is max engine output, but longevity.

Sly, the next time you change your spark plugs go for these.

NGK BCR8ES, the BKR7E plug is projected. You want the none projected version. Ive seen plug tips broken on the projected spark plugs.

Here's my advance table.

[b19gtr]

These will be easier to find for you as the BCR8ES are mainly in the UK.

NGK R5671A-8

[MD323]

Does your map stay at 34 at idle?
Mine moves up and down by about 2

even without the idle valve you can do this by adjusting your scales down low and "lock" your idle so it fits neatly in the center of 4 values, all of which are the same on spark and fuel. what this does is if the motor or load varies alittle bit the ecu doesnt change the values and overshoot which is typically the reason for oscillation. combine this with closed loop O2 and idle should be smoother the stock. A/C activations and the like are alittle harder without the valve.

[bcowie]

Im gonna post a log of whats going on with mine maybe someone can take a look for me?

[MD323]

make sure to check and post your firmware version and msq along with it

[bcowie]

[bcowie]

2012-05-03_17.53.45.zip

[MD323]

thats a composite log used for crank and cam signal testing.

1. what is it doing? oscillating at idle? then goto tunerstudio..datatlogging.. start logging


make sure to log a full start and warm up and the problem, press spacebar anytime it does something you want to look at later




BTW: that is an MS2 running 3.1.0 firmware, update it here http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms2extra/....html#download some time later after you get you maps steady.