Ms

[roymacavoy]

The MS uses the stock grounds in the car. So yes, those will have to solid. It sounds like this can be a possibility - especially since it's so intermittent. Here are the grounding points in the engine bay from the FSM.

So, from the diagrham you have here. I am assuming the

#1 is on the transmisson mount.
#2 is on the frame coming from the engine. I realize this does not match the picture but if that is not it, then can someone snap a pic of what it is, I pulled all the vacumn/cruise control crap out of that side. The only spot that looks like a ground is the one on the frame.
#3 is in the car under the dash on the side wall.
#4 is ?? Looks like its on the strut mount? This cant be right, so I am figuring its the one just below the coil.

Anyway. HELP!

[Lex]

Silly question, but is your vacuum source for the MS good from the manifold after the throttle body?

[roymacavoy]

I have it hooked up to the last little hole on the top left side of the manifold (if you were standing infront of the engine).I just finished rechecking my timing and I still cant figure this out. Can you show or tell me where the #2 ground is? I think its the one from the engine to the frame.

[roymacavoy]

Ok, so here is what I have been able to find out.
1- timing is good.
2- There is power to the coil but no spark. I have checked the coil and the plugs. no spark. What are the settings for the ms for spark? Is there anything that I should have done that I may have not already done? It is a basic ford escort gt with a rebuilt bp engine. Nothing fancy. No automatic TB, No ignition upgrade. Everything is stock except the coil and obvioulsly the turbo parts. I have used a diod light and a spark tool, so I know that there is no spark. I used my volt meter to determine that there is power. I even changed the distributor just to make sure it wasnt that..........

[mx-3_4evr]

That sucks! I say find the power wire to the distributor/coil and just hook it up to a switch power and see if you get power that way. IDK how to help you if you are using the stock harness. Good luck!

[Lex]

Did you swap out the igniter? If the ignition system is stock otherwise and igniter also checks out, check the stock wiring harness. to the coil.

Are you getting fuel during cranking? Is the MS turning on?

[roymacavoy]

Yes the little black $100.00 piece under the coil has been replaced. I am getting plenty of fuel and the ms is working.

As far as the coil wiring goes... If I am getting power to the coil, what could be causing it from sparking? Is there a relay or something that I am missing? Can I bypass the stock wiring harness? As far as the grounds go, was I right? Where is the 2nd ground that is on the timing belt side of the car?

[roymacavoy]

Did you swap out the igniter? If the ignition system is stock otherwise and igniter also checks out, check the stock wiring harness. to the coil.

Are you getting fuel during cranking? Is the MS turning on?

When you say check it, what am I checking for? Power? if so, 12v or something else? Thanks

[Lex]

Unfortunately checking wiring is just pinning stuff out and making sure the wire from the cab into the engine bay does not have any breaks or shorts in it.

Your MS has a map for 550cc injectors. Are you using 550ccs?

What makes this really weird is that it ran fine for a while ... and it ran fine when I tested here a second time. No issues.

[roymacavoy]

correct. I am using high impedence rx7 injectors. I hear you on the weird issue. I am scrathin my head. I cant figure it out.

[Lex]

Randall, I made a diagram that will help you check some things. You will need a voltmeter for this. Here are the checks:

Checks 1-3 should be done with the ignition key OFF.

1. Unplug the PNP harness from your wiring harness. Check that you have very little resistance (5 Ohms at most) between pins 1G inside the car at the ecu connector and the G/W wire coming to the igniter. These two check points are marked with red circles in the diagram.

2. Check that you have very low resistance (5 Ohm or less) between the B/O wire on the igniter and ground (chassis ground inside engine bay). This is shown by the brown circles.

3. Check that you have very low resistance (5 Ohm or less) between the Y/L (yellow/blue) wire on the igniter and negative terminal of the coil. This is shown by the green circles.

4. With the ignition turned ON check that you have battery voltage at the blue (L) wire on the positive terminal of the coil. This is shown with the blue circle in the diagram.

Also unplug all your injectors and crank the car over. See if you get spark with the injectors unplugged.

Let me know how these tests go.

[roymacavoy]

Ok, #1-3 are reading -0.00, there is movement at the begining, then settles at -0.00. I had it set at 40k on ohms.

#4. is reading at 11.88v
#5. there is no spark and I still smell a strong odor of fuel. How is that? The car has been sitting all night.

[Lex]

Can you see RPM on your laptop when you crank all the time? Maybe it drops out.

EDIT: If you've disconnected the injectors, no fuel will be sprayed unless the injectors themselves leak. You are probably smelling residual fuel in the cylinders.

Another question - how are you checking for spark?

[MD323]

Ok my ground on the left side of the motor goes from the head to the left frame rail. If you think a ground is the issue measure the resistance from the dissy and head to the neg terminal on the battery. Ideally there should be very little resistance but compare it to the neg terminal and a bare spot on the frame rail and make sure its less if not equal. After I'm done moving this weekend ill get some general restance numbers for you and stare at my car since I'm close to your setup with the bp and MS on stock wiring

[roymacavoy]

checking spark via spark diode and a spark jumper. I will have to check the rpm. What about the grounds? Where are they located?