Innovate MTX-L Install

[AmmoJammo]

I won't have logworks online until I can source a serial to usb plug that doesn't cost $40 bucks.

Mine looks like this one:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/USB-to-RS-232-RS232-Converter-Adapter-GPS-FTA-DB9-3ft-/250780984145?pt=US_Parallel_Serial_PS_2_Cables_Adapters&hash=item3a63b62351

:p

And it works with the Innovate gauges, as well as the MegaSquirt ECU.

[FE3-323]

Lean it out more jon.

[1st Gen]

What is too lean? If I'm 12.5 at high boost, off boost could be as high as----?

[FE3-323]

with the OEM turbo ecu's its a cross. trying to blend cruising/idle & on boost AFR's into a reasonable range -- its a give/take relationship.
id say you can safely hit 13:1 under boost without issues.

[Mazda_Powered]

13:1 is pretty lean in my eyes...maybe if you're were running like 8psi on the VF10...but you're still running that tiny VJ20 turbine a/r so your EGTs will probably be pretty high at that lean of a ratio when you're full throttle in the higher RPMs.

"Personally" 11.5-12:1 in boost at WOT is perfect for +10psi on that setup, and your idle ratio is spot on. Just when you dip into the 10s at low throttle is the main issue I'd look into. Sounds like the VAF door is almost maxed out from the load dipping you way into the rich lol. Might be able to tighten her up a click and be ok in the end.

Personally my BPT setup LOVES 12:1 in boost, just eats it up. Anything above/bellow I notice the difference in throttle response and power.

[1st Gen]

I'm just confused. I leaned it out quite a bit. It idles about 15.4 for about a half a minute and then the engine almost dies and the number goes up to 18. I have no idea why.
It drives within spec though, about 15 until WOT, then it dips down to 11. The same problem persists though. It doesn't produce real power until 4600 RPM's. Then it's very fast.

Edit-I think I'm too lean right now so I richened it up again. I think something else is going on preventing it from making power at low rpm's. I have the connecter for for the laptop on the way. I won't drive it again until I can do some data logging.

Edit-I don't remember ever being able to hear the injectors. One of the two in the middle is clicking. I can feel it in the wire when I touch it.

[Mazda_Powered]

What were the symptoms other than rich under low rpm load before you leaned things out? Sounds like it's gotten worse?

Injectors are supposed to be active, so what you're feeling is normal. If you're really concerned, disconnect the plug and probe the resistance. Should be around 12 ohms.

I'd also check to make sure your injectors are properly sealed, you should be able to spin them a bit while the car is running and not have them leak. I have had injectors pull in air before due to a bad seating surface in the rail, and NEVER leaked a drop of fuel...idle would cause issues galore though. (could hear them hissing)

[KMpuggy]

I installed the same kit today on my car.

At the mo im getting these readings and i gather from the thread i made in the BF section and reply i got im on the lean side.

Idle im getting around 15-15.4
Cruising around say 2000rpm its around 16.5
On max boost foot to the floor 10+psi its anywhere between 13-14

Cheers for this thread tho as i know what sort of numbers i should be looking at now as i didnt have a clue. :D

[AmmoJammo]

I'd say your AFM spring has been fiddled with :p

I think they all have!

Try loosening the spring by 1 click and see what the afrs are like then.

Imageshack decided I wanted the pic rotated 90 degrees :/
At the bottom of the pic, you can see a spring loaded locking tab,
mark where the locking tab currently is, then carefully pull the spring loaded tab back, and let the main "cog" turn back one tooth.



edit: there is also a screw on these AFMs to adjust the bypass air, but if the cover is still on the screw, I'd say its never been adjusted.

[KMpuggy]

Cheers for that, just what i was after. I also found this little vid a few mins ago which i basically the same as you just said.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cyRxVTh8jXQ

Ive got a few afms lying around so i will take the botched one i got a have a fiddle with it first. That screw your on about, is supposed to have a black cap over it right? on my meter and 2 in the shed its not a screw, just a round dimple thingy, but on one of the other spare meters it looks like someone has cut a groove into and "made" it into a screw. I did put that meter on the car earlier and got silly low readings like 9.5 on idle and it was struggling to tick over, i adjusted that screw and it made no difference whatsoever so i take it that afm is a bit on the focked side.

[AmmoJammo]

It should be a metal cap that covers a screw, if its just the cap that has a slot cut in it, rotating that won't do anything :p

[KMpuggy]

On one of mine it was like a black plastic bung thing/cover that just popped into that hole, i would look pretty stupid just turning the cover. :D Just run out to my shed to get some pics.


One with a screw.




One with no screw

[AmmoJammo]

iiinteresting... do any of them look like they've had the big plastic cover off before? that covers the springs and stuff.

[KMpuggy]

Nah none of the ones ive got look like they have been tampered with, they look well sealed. Its midnight here and im tucked up in bed, i dont know about the one on the motor, maybe it has. I didnt even know about adjusting them under that cover until you mentioned it and i see that vid. I will crack on with it in the morning and sort the mixture out.

[Mazda_Powered]

forgive my ignorance, but what's the E code VAF from? I thought the BF GTX was a D code.