Boost issues...

[driftscort]

so you cant have the wastegate vac line go to the back of the intake manifold? it wont work?

[redfox]

so you cant have the wastegate vac line go to the back of the intake manifold? it wont work?

can we say LAG?

[What]

You will usually have a pressure drop in the line from the intake all the way to the turbo. That means when there is actually 1psi of pressure, the waste gate thinks there is 0psi of pressure. If thewaste gate thinks there is 0psi, it will not open and there will be less lag, and depending on length of hose, I've seen it more than once add a pound or two of boost by hooking the wastegate up by the back of hte manifold. Right off the compressor inlet is responsive for the wastegate, not neccessarilly for boost. It means that as soon as you hit the pressure it's set to open at, it will open at that pressure. If it is opening earlier though... that means less quick spool up time.

If you are describing it accurately, the way it is hooked up sounds fine. As long as your a/f is fine for the increased boost, and you are not getting detonation, you should be just fine. The only thing I don't like is running little turbos with too much boost... lots of heat. If you plan on doing modifications down the road, I'd start invest in all the equipment you'll need for proper tuning. i.e. wideband and proper fuel control components as well as the fuel components.

Just make sure your wastegate is opening, and it is not being restricted (will open all the way)... what are you using for exhaust? What altitude are you at?

[driftscort]

it isnt safe, the boost climbs so fast up to high amounts as if the wastegate isnt opening and it just keeps boosting. i tested the actuator with a foot pump to make sure it opens and it does but how fast should the actuator rod move when opening and closing??? do you think its because of where the wastegate's vac line is hooked up to why it doesnt seem to want to open?? i also found that the stupid shop went and tee'd into the wastegates vac line to run my bov's vac line, which isnt good cuz i found out the bov shouldnt be using a shared line. plz help! thanx!!!!

[elscotto80]

Fix the problem by tapping a hole as close to the compressor outlet as possilble as i have said 4 times before. Get some tubing, connect your new tapped nipple to the wastegate and bam, your problem is solved. I dont know if I can put it any simpler than Ihave just stated.

[What]

it isnt safe, the boost climbs so fast up to high amounts as if the wastegate isnt opening and it just keeps boosting. i tested the actuator with a foot pump to make sure it opens and it does but how fast should the actuator rod move when opening and closing??? do you think its because of where the wastegate's vac line is hooked up to why it doesnt seem to want to open?? i also found that the stupid shop went and tee'd into the wastegates vac line to run my bov's vac line, which isnt good cuz i found out the bov shouldnt be using a shared line. plz help! thanx!!!!

The BOV causes some presure fluctuations that are really bad for map sensors and various other electronic measuring equipment (boost controllers, boost gauge sending units on electronic ones... etc.), but in most situations it can be teed on to a simple mechanical device such as your wastegate. Having the tee should not make your wastegate not open as there should still be the same pressure in the line.


Try a) put your boost gauge on the line that is being used for both the BOV and the wastegate. Not every port on intakes that looks like it should give a good signal does. Your BOV won't open during the run and boost should climb like a mofo so don't stay on it. Just make sure that the vacuum and boost signal is functioning from that port.

b) If it's properly functioning you can try to simply isolate the lines, but I do believe your problem will still lie elsewhere.

I can't say I've ever tried opening the wastegate with a foot pump... but, with a compressor with the regulator set close to where it should be (do not try and put 100psi through the wastegate!), it is pretty much instantaneous. You should also be looking at how FAR it travels. If it doesn't open far enough, it won't blow by enough exhaust gas and it will just build boost instead.

[driftscort]

hmmm interesting, ya maybe the problem is that the actuator rod isnt traveling far enough to let out enough exhaust. about how far should the rod be travelling? could it need some sort of lubrication that would some how free it up a bit?? i dont know how long this engine sat for in japan so maybe its just a little sticky and its not wanting to open all the way because of junk on the rod or something?
thanx so much for the help/suggestons WHAT.

[lscrx]

hmmm interesting, ya maybe the problem is that the actuator rod isnt traveling far enough to let out enough exhaust. about how far should the rod be travelling? could it need some sort of lubrication that would some how free it up a bit?? i dont know how long this engine sat for in japan so maybe its just a little sticky and its not wanting to open all the way because of junk on the rod or something?
thanx so much for the help/suggestons WHAT.

My friend swapped his T25 on his 2nd gen Eclipse with an old 14b from a 1st gen and the actuater rod was stuck. He got one from a guy on his DSM board for free... but you may be able to lube yours up, his didn't move at all.

[driftscort]

any ideas as to what you could use that would be safe to lube it???

[What]

First, see if it is actually sticking... there is usually a cotter pin holding the arm from the diagprahgm to the flapper of your wastegate. Pull out the cotter pin, take that wastegate actuator arm off the end going into the turbo, and see if you can rotate the end that goes into the turbo itself.

If it flaps about freely, it's probably not sticking and you should check your wastegate actuator with something besides a foot pump.

This is of course assuming you have now checked the lines with your boost gauge as well...

[What]

In case you're not sure of what to look for... you can see the rod coming out of the wastegate actuator in this pic, and even the cotter pin on top... pop that pin out, take arm off, and see if end in turbo rotates freely. I need my photoshop back (just switched computers) so I can shrink the file... it's straight out of the camera in that one.



To show these things don't really change much a pic with a turbo with integrated BOV to try and confuse you. The wastegate is the shiny one with the black hose going to it. The wastegate still attaches in the same way and functions the same though.