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You could just hook up the VICS solenoid to a regular switch, but that would be a PITA when driving to use. The real trick would be to get it kicking in @ 0PSI at perfect no vacum. if you could do that you would be guarunteed to make more power.
A turbo is load based. so you would have to use a pressure switch of some sort that would turn the solenoid on @ 0 vacum. it can be done. Id love to see someone do it.---Has ClubProtege helped you in someway? show your support by Contributing--- Click Here---
1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi
I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it
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****, still I just can't help it, my dangerous dong does bad things to the back of my baby. HAHAHA---Has ClubProtege helped you in someway? show your support by Contributing--- Click Here---
1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi
I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it
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Originally posted by bpt323You could just hook up the VICS solenoid to a regular switch, but that would be a PITA when driving to use. The real trick would be to get it kicking in @ 0PSI at perfect no vacum. if you could do that you would be guarunteed to make more power.
A turbo is load based. so you would have to use a pressure switch of some sort that would turn the solenoid on @ 0 vacum. it can be done. Id love to see someone do it.Back in BG business.
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Originally posted by Pastor_ProtegeThat's what I thought too, but wouldn't you reach 0 PSI at about the same RPM every time?
You do not. Those variables are quite independent. You could use either the RPM or the boost (using a Hobbs pressure switch) or both to trigger the solenoid depending on how you set things up
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Originally posted by D323I would think it would be better to have both. Have a preset RPM so incase you for some reason aren't seeing boost by a certain RPM, it opens anyway. Just my thought process.
Mexican: "You wanna race for titles?"
Mormon: "lol, no, I don't want your car."
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TO make it easier I would just do it so it opens around 3000. By then you are done with torque anyways---Has ClubProtege helped you in someway? show your support by Contributing--- Click Here---
1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi
I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it
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Originally posted by bpt323If you quit making torque @ 3k or your torque peak is @ 3k then you need to do something different about how your motor is running.
Mexican: "You wanna race for titles?"
Mormon: "lol, no, I don't want your car."
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probe/mx6 guys use a 'window switch' to control their VRIS, im sure you can use something like that and just hook it up to open VICS at WOT.
because if you're not driving spirited you're obviously trying to save gas, so there wouldnt be any benefit of having the VICS activated at a certain RPM.
personally, i'd keeps VICS and add a window switch, or splice your TPS so when you reach WOT your VICS opens to let more air in etc...
just my 2 cents, i dont know a lot about FI, but i can try, right
JACK-Jack
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91 626 LX - basically stock and pretty slow still
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just get a pressure switch & set it for whatever you deem. that would be your fix there. im sure you could do it for under $25.---Has ClubProtege helped you in someway? show your support by Contributing--- Click Here---
1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi
I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it
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