how much $$$$ to boost?

[jamaican]

i have a protege gt (bp-ze)... and i want a reliable/everyday-driver set-up... looking for about 200whp. i figure it's going to cost me about $3000 - $4000 CND.

now i'm facing reality, i know little things are going to add up and be much more. i'm thinking i should just go n/a and settle with about 140whp

what doy you guys think?

[Lex]

with a VJ20 setup it won't cost you that much.

You will need the turbo and manifold, injectors, fuel pump, intercooler and piping, some exhaust work, a couple of gauges, and for great reliability the GTX ECU. You may also need a better clutctch. You can probably do a reliable setup for around $1500 if you shop around.

Actually, Im selling my GTX setup (manifold and turbo) at the end of the month and I live next to ya In Vancouver and can show you a couple of things if need be. If you get the right parts, you can get a very reliable setup.

[jamaican]

i only know about garret turbos... and i can get wicked deals on them in jamaica... salvaged evo's, sti's, 4age's, pulsar's, etc. what make is a VJ20, ford? and that can carry me to 200whp safely?

if i go boosted, do i still keep the RX7 VAF? or is all the **** removed and it's one straight pipe from the IC to the throttle body?

thanks.

[therieldeal]

you keep the vaf, it goes before the turbo in your intake piping (first thing after the filter, like it is now)

the vj20 is an IHI turbo. its the stock turbo for the GTX (bp turbo) engine in japan. 180hp at stock boost. people have dynoed over 200whp with one at about 14psi with a large fmic

-jon

[Lex]

you can fit any other turbo on there but you will need to do some fabrication and welding in order to adapat the manifold to take that turbo. You will also need to tap your oil pan for an oil drain

[jamaican]

what about stuff like... pistons and rods, and head gasket... would i need to change those to lower the engine compression?

[Lex]

nope, you can keep those - they are good for close to 300 whp

[91ProtegeLX]

keep it NA!!!

[FE3-323]

you don't need a fuel pump the LX fuel pump is plenty sufficient.
I do not reccomend Walbro, as they are much unneedly loud. or can be. RX7 Turbo 2 fuel pumps (stock ones) work more then what your needs will be & it still stays @ the stock pump level. (if your even worried about the pump)

I ran 207WHP on 8.5PSI with my stock fuel pump for a month without any issues whatsoever.

a FMIC +VJ20 +12PSI + the GTX exhintake cam will put you well into the 200+ WHP range

[wht95scort]

Deff upgrade your fuel pump if going turbo. You don't want to skimp out in the fuel area. Sure you MAY get away with the stock one for a while but it isnt ment to flow what is needed for a forced induction car. spend the money right and you will have no probs. Walbro are not loud there very quite. If they start to whine loud its a sign there going bad as any elec pump.

[FE3-323]

have you compared the flowrates of the GTX/GTR & NA fuel pumps???? not many PSI difference. for 10PSI & under your more then sufficient with the stock LX pump.

[Lex]

the only poor side of the walbro I see is it's inability to pick up fuel when running low on the tank and taking a turn

[wht95scort]

the only poor side of the walbro I see is it's inability to pick up fuel when running low on the tank and taking a turn

Thats not the pumps fault, its the baffle in the tank. should never run below 1/4 tank anyway..intank pumps are cooled by the gas if ran low pumps heat up and will fail prematurly.

[Denis]

the only poor side of the walbro I see is it's inability to pick up fuel when running low on the tank and taking a turn

I don't seem to have that problem.

[FE3-323]

i haven't noticed tha issue since i readjusted the pump to fit perfect for the walbro. But then again, i haven't pushed it; so that it will, i don't want to loose fuel under boost