New member / New (to me) 1990 Mazda 323/Protege

[WNJ]

Hello all,

Recently received a 1990 Mazda 323/Protege [1.8 SOHC w/auto trans] from a family friend, 125k on the odometer and no signs of rust. Located around GTA, Ontario

Found this forum to try and soak in some longstanding knowledge you guys have assembled here. Also found a 1992 NoAm Protege FSM which I believe should be the same as the 1990?

So far no major issues. I wanted to get some opinions on the intermittent rough/rolling idle, slow acceleration, and rich smelling exhaust on startup. Would this just be that the O2 sensor needs to heat up? Any common occurrences with these symptoms?

Regards,
WNJ

[tireboy]

Are you getting a check engine light coming on??


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[WNJ]

Nope, nothing stored or immediate.

[tireboy]

Huh. When was the last time for a full tune up??


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[aj88keys]

Rich smelling exhaust on startup is not necessarily an issue as cars normally run a bit rich to get going, especially in cold weather. As for the rough idle, it could be any number of things. Vacuum leaks are a common cause, look for hoses that are cracked or hardened and replace them, age does not do good things to rubber. You could also have gummed up fuel injectors; do some spirited driving with a full tank of Shell V-Power or run a bottle of injector cleaner (Techron I hear works well, but the bottled stuff, not the stuff blended into Chevron gas). I put the hammer down up the Sea to Sky here in BC with a full tank of V Power in my 94 protege and it made a definite difference to my overall performance. Besides, even if it doesnt work, it is a fun process!

[FE3-323]

welcome!

[WNJ]

tireboy - Huh. When was the last time for a full tune up??

Not sure about that. I've replaced the distributor o-ring and I've done an oil change. Beyond that I don't know its maintenance beyond oil changes and brake/bearing replacements. What do you suggest as a tune-up?

aj88keys - Rich smelling exhaust on startup is not necessarily ....

Thanks for this. I've checked for vaccum leaks and torn hoses, nothing found. I'll try the injector cleaner as I've got some on hand. Thanks for the advice. I want to say the idling might be an electrical issue? The idle roughness varies as I increase/decrease the amp load.

FE3-323 - welcome!

Thanks for the welcome.

[tireboy]

Plugs wires cap n rotor pcv valve. Air cleaner.


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[WNJ]

Plugs wires cap n rotor pcv valve. Air cleaner.

Ah, got it. Thank you. I've cleaned and descaled any oxidization on the cap/rotor, would this be enough? I'm new to distributors (only had coil-over-plug before). PCV valve still rattles and holds pressure. Looks like its been replaced in the past, though it looks like it seats awkwardly on the grommet. Intake air filter looks new and has no debris in it. I might replace the fuel filter.

[aj88keys]

I want to say the idling might be an electrical issue? The idle roughness varies as I increase/decrease the amp load.

Clean your battery terminals and check your voltages across the battery. You should get between 11.8-12.5v with the car and all accessories off, and 13.5-14.2v with the car running. If your readings are lower, you may have a battery issue. Check the fluid level if you can and top it up with distilled water. A bad battery or bad electrical connection with the battery will definitely put more load on your alternator, which in turn puts more load on the engine. It may also affect the coil's ability to produce a clean spark.

Speaking of spark, definitely change out your plugs and wires. Never hurts, just make sure to get good spark plugs. NGK or Denso with the iridium tips work well, and rarely need to be gapped.

J

[tireboy]

Cap n rotor should be changed while your at it.


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