I'm just here so I don't get fined! (Working on Mom's car...need FSM)

[NCTraveller]

Hello ALL

Mom is the original owner of a 1993 BG SOHC with 163K miles that needs axles and a new clutch.

already been to harbor freight for a 3/4" socket set trying to get the axle nut off... not going well.

If anybody can show me the link for a BG FSM, it would be appreciated!

cheers

drew

[me109]

Welcome.

Impact tools are very helpful with those axle nuts. Otherwise you can try to hammer and punch out the stake and go at it with a long breaker bar. Don't pull both axles out at once.

Should be a fairly straightforward job though. Hope it starts going better for you.

[NCTraveller]

I used a 3/4" Harbor Freight socket set and the axle nuts grudgingly backed off which required a lot of persuasion too. Then I pounded the heck out of the lower ball joints with a pry bar and hammer.

Of course, I'm digging through my dads tools and can't find a 23mm socket to get the MT drain plug off...used a 24mm that was loose, but it worked. Getting the axles out of the transmission was a real treat and I ended up destroying a sheet metal collar on the RH (longer) axle that was between the inner spider joint and the transmission casing. Not sure if it is required.

I spent all day just getting to the bell housing bolts, which I'll tackle today. I'm hoping to get the flywheel off so I can determine my final list of parts that need to be ordered from RockAuto.

I'll actually have to refer to the manual to fill the transmission, Mazda (or OEM whomever) should win an award for disguising the fill plug so well. Props!


Doesn't help that the car is absolutely caked in oil crud and just makes everything difficult.

(I personally own and service an NSX, and iMHO the BG is takes longer and is more complex.)

[me109]

Pretty sure you just fill the transaxle through the speedometer gear hole. And check the level with the gear too.

The sheet metal collar on the axle, if it's what I think you're talking about, is what holds it in the transaxle. But since you're changing them anyway the new ones should come with them.

[NCTraveller]

Hi, appreciate the speedometer tip.

Can the starter stay in place, or does it have to be removed? I took out the engine side bell housing (which galled) and starter bolt.

The shifter bushings are still there, but the shifter is like moving around a wet noodle in ramen. Is the transmission (165K miles) just worn out, or are the bushings the culprit?

[me109]

I think the starter will fall out if you don't remove it. It's been a while...

Shifter slop is bushings. I think corksport might still sell brass ones for it. If so, it's well worth getting them. They should outlast the car.

[NCTraveller]

Everything is out and cleaning has begun.

Decided now is the time to pull the oil pan and deal with the pan leak...the Main Bearing Pan Support requires E-socket (so more Harbor Freight). The oil pan is a stressed member and it is a pretty casting. Putting a new pan gasket is a two-step process of "gluing" in the end cap seals with RTV, waiting for them to dry, and then sandwiching the MBPS with the oil pan and torque away.

The starter is retained by a bolt on the rear of the starter to an engine bracket. Of course, I removed this bolt during disassembly because no good reason, but the starter stays because too many wires. I'll put the bolt back when I crawl back under the car.

The closeout prices of RockAuto are so alluring that I'm going full-scale Midas Swell because everything costs a few dollars....less than the cost of shipping in most cases.

We'll see where I stop...I've got a whole collection of RA stickers on mom's fridge already just from this job and she doesn't like them all that much.

[NCTraveller]

the clutch job is done!

New: clutch pack, axles & seals, brake master, clutch master&slave, engine mounts, Corksport shifter bushings, and resealed the oil pan (too many hours to clean and install)

A few more RockAuto magnets to go as the cooling hoses are soft or oil soaked. Also made nearly daily trips to Harbor Freight.

I'll post all the critical torque values when I get all the grease off my notes.

PROBLEM: Does not shift into reverse. The transmission sheet metal endcap appears to be in perfect condition...no dents or imperfections. I'll pull the pan if I need to, but nothing appears wrong. Am I looking for a bent linkage? When trying to shift into reverse (1-5 work perfectly) it just won't go...it feels 'blank', not even double-clutching or shifting into a forward gear helps any...it's like it "feels blank". Any help appreciated. The reverse issue appears to be related to a new backup light switch, as I broke the wire connections on install.

Torque Values (ft/pounds):
Flywheel to crank: 71-75
pressure plate to flywheel 13-20
starter: 14-19

transmission case: small bolts: 27-38
transmission drain plug: 29-40

tie rods 31-42
ball joint: 32-43
engine brace: 47-66
front axle 174-235

Engine
oil pan bolts : 69-95 in/pounds (~7.5 ft/lb)
oil strainer/pickup: 69-95 in/lb

[minijosh]

You should post this plus pics in the BG forum.

[NCTraveller]

Thanks for the help folks. Two year update.

I'm back Stateside and Mom's BG is driving great...another +10k miles without too much issue. Well, it never had A/C and that is a problem in Los Angeles....my parents always bought the loss leader from the dealership.

The turn signal flasher was operating intermittently on one side. I figured it was a dangling filament inside one of the bulbs, but neither lamp would flash when it broke; so unlikely both lamps would go out in sync. So probably the flasher: which is $50 (!), rare, and I could only find one on Rock Auto for the Escort. I disassembled the flasher and I observed a single dry solder joint inside the flasher unit. A trip to Harbor Freight for a $20 soldering iron, reflow the coil connections, and back in business. A no-part fix and added an extra tool in Mom's garage.

A couple of issues I'd like to resolve while I am here (another 2-3 weeks)

1. Suspension Clunk,

I could use some help on a suspension clunk. Very loud and grating on the front left. And I cannot determine the source. The LCA bushings are tight and in the same condition as the other side which has no clunk. The noise is pretty disturbing, but I can find nothing obvious...put car up on jack stands and use a pry bar, but nothing.

I cannot remember if I changed out all the sway bar bushings, but I can see that I did the end links.

2. Bluetooth modification to the OEM radio

Also, while I was here a couple of years ago I got Mom (79) a smartphone and, wow, was that a life changer for her. The maps are a killer app: no more getting lost and could easily find places.she needs to go without her 1992 Thomas Guide (ok, she would print out maps on her pc). A Google phone number is the second killer app, one phone number for all and transcribes messages that she can read and doesn't have to deal with poor voice recordings. She always stated she was just fine with her candy bar phone (no, really) and now she won't give up her phone (like everybody else).

I would like to modify her OEM radio to add in a BT receiver. I am pretty good with a soldering iron...as noted above. Maybe just repurpose the cassette tape input internally with an AliE BT receiver?

I'm not here too long and any help would be appreciated.

[redheddude222]

I put a Bluetooth head unit in mine and I love it. Everything works like factory using the Metra wiring adapter kit. No cut wires, just plugs into your stock harness.

[redheddude222]

Link to the Boss head unit I bought. The built-in microphone is garbage, but I feel like it's still worth $32.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08GNZDGCP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[redheddude222]

Metra mount kit: https://a.co/d/68BpaCq

Wiring kit: https://a.co/d/9MAOU2K

[NCTraveller]

It's been a couple of years and the car is fixed up. I managed to do it with $700 in parts from RockAuto which was on 90% close out...so effectively $7000 in parts. New clutch, new axles, coolant hoses, tie rods, and new shifter bushings (had to special order those from some race place forget name). A couple of trips to a junkyard that had a BG in their inventory.

Mom over-ruled any mods to the stereo. She just wants the car to work. The OEM radio is starting to fade presumably due to leaking capacitors...so the unit needs to be rebuilt.

I really wish the car had A/C, but it would take too long to install it in the car, but this car was the loss leader that nobody would actually buy (especially in southern california), but my parents would.

***

What is everybody doing for front control arm bushings? I got a serious clunk in the front end and I'm pretty sure it is rear bushing on the front lower control arm.

[redheddude222]

I couldn't find much listed for a Protege, but the Escort stuff should work. https://www.energysuspensionparts.co...rd_escort_1994