What brand of oil do you use in your Protege? I use Castrol GTX High Mileage in my 93' protege LX.
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What type of oil do you use in your Protege...?
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Redline or Motul.'90 AWD Protege, full GTR drivetrain swap, ~320 whp daily driver, RIP, and
'90 AWD Protege, yet another GTR swap, Open class rallycar with a Toyota GT4 gearbox swap, thus crossing the line between hobby and mental illness. And a Brabus E55 K8, removing all doubt.
http://www.wihandyman.com/forum/vbpi...?do=view&g=110
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2599486
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Red Line 5W-30.
Happy Motoring!02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter
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The oil I use is part synthetic, but if I shouldn't be running synthetic (even just part synthetic), Perhaps I should change oils if at all possible. If I were to change oil from part synthetic to regular (so to speak) oil, do I have to do anything to make the change over simple, and not mess anything up?My other car is a bicycle.
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Originally posted by Longboy View PostThe oil I use is part synthetic, but if I shouldn't be running synthetic (even just part synthetic), Perhaps I should change oils if at all possible. If I were to change oil from part synthetic to regular (so to speak) oil, do I have to do anything to make the change over simple, and not mess anything up?
Happy Motoring!02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter
Comment
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Well say for instance, if i was to change to a full synthetic oil in my protege, and i didn't like it for whatever odd reason, are there any issues when changing back over to a conventional oil? I heard that once you change from conventional to synthetic...its an act of congress to change back to a "normal" oil. Is this true? I forgot what brand but i did run full synthetic in my old 92' Nissan Sentra without issues. I switched the sentra's oil over while the engine had over 300,000 miles on it. I wouldn't mind trying it in the mazda. It also has well over 300,000 miles on it, and is running a part synthetic blend. Ill give full synthetic a shot, seeing as how i am nearing the oil change period. I just want to make sure that it wont be a pain...or cause any issues...should i was to go back to what im using now....or even go back a "normal" oil.My other car is a bicycle.
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Originally posted by Longboy View PostWell say for instance, if i was to change to a full synthetic oil in my protege, and i didn't like it for whatever odd reason, are there any issues when changing back over to a conventional oil? I heard that once you change from conventional to synthetic...its an act of congress to change back to a "normal" oil. Is this true? I forgot what brand but i did run full synthetic in my old 92' Nissan Sentra without issues. I switched the sentra's oil over while the engine had over 300,000 miles on it. I wouldn't mind trying it in the mazda. It also has well over 300,000 miles on it, and is running a part synthetic blend. Ill give full synthetic a shot, seeing as how i am nearing the oil change period. I just want to make sure that it wont be a pain...or cause any issues...should i was to go back to what im using now....or even go back a "normal" oil.
Synthetic engine oils and mineral oils are completely compatible and can be mixed together although it's not good practice because doing so weakens and reduces the benefits of the synthetic portion. So, once you change to synthetic oil, changing back to mineral oil (or a blend) is easy and will cause no damage or problems of any kind. And no, the engine doesn't have to be flushed after a changeover - another myth.
Considering the benefits of synthetic oil in terms of performance, increased oil change intervals, decreased fuel consumption, and increased engine longevity (including cleaner internals) why, except for the increased price, would you consider using anything but synthetic in this day and age?
Happy Motoring!02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter
Comment
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When I use conventional/Dino/ mineral/ whatever else you want to call it I burn a qt ever 1000-1500 miles. Synthetic on the other hand I go through a qt every 500-800 miles. Although the previous owner ran the car into the ground and never did any maintenance to it so it has bad valve seals and piston rings are show signs of starting to go. That may be why but in my case it's just better to use conventional
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Could be possible Tweety. In got my Mazda from my uncle, who was fairly anal about keeping the Mazda running well. Even with well over 300,000 miles on it, it still runs like a champ. Hell, it got me to California and back with no issues what so ever. Ill give the synthetic a shot, should i be able to afford it.My other car is a bicycle.
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