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What did you do to your BF today???

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    I still need to get the LF bearing done, so I've not been driving the car at all lately. Full time work and school really puts the skids on the fun. Too bad, we've been having some awesome turbo weather up here: Sunny, highs in the 60's and lows in the upper 30's to low 40's.

    I'm going to laugh my ass off if I get the car back and break down (... again) for something old and worn out that has yet to be replaced. Can't think what that could be, as the car has had almost everything replaced. My bet: Hose clamp. They hate me.

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      Plugged in 2 new Tokico Illumina's into the GTX. Blew a Dirtra on the other car and was outa spares...so I scavenged the one car and gave it some new parts. Now I have one spare...about a 300.00 turn around but oh well.

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        I washed it! It looks good!

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          just to inform the BF guys, i added the option of BF ksport coil over kits to the group buy at the same 900 shipped in the us, and 950 to canada from pierce motorsports

          92 protege lx-

          94 protege lx-

          95 escort gt-ms2e/ms2extra pre3.3alpha5 gslender v2.8-e85-vj23@12lbs----dead--

          are you a thinker, or a believer?

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            I spent all morning fixing a loose rear wheel bearing and then redesigning my ghetto fab rear coilover setup. It was mostly just an attempt to isolate some vibration and make the car quieter and so far it seems to be better.

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              finally after 8 months, played around with the timing and got it to "the sweet spot". when i replaced the water pump last May i set the timing without jumping the ten pin and ground so the timing light was showing 34* advanced. so if what people have said is correct about it being off by 18* without the jumper, my car was set at 16*. and now is more like 12 or 13*. i didn't think 3* would make a big diff but it did, so now i'm kicking myself for not doing it sooner. now i just have to talk myself into putting on the mbc on i've had for about 6 months.

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                I had to fix an exhaust leak today from where the manifold connects to the "j" pipe. The nuts came loose and I ended up just replacing them all with brand new hardware. Got my torque back and I'm sure MPG will be better as well.

                I also checked the front hubs while the car was jacked up since I'm getting a noise from the front end while moving. I didn't think it was a wheel bearing problem since they were recently replaced and i checked them again last week when bolting on new rotors. There was some play in the wheel, but it wasn't the spindle moving in the knuckle. It is the strut itself. The strut is actually allowing a slight camber change under load. The movement is between the strut body and the strut rod. Since the Mac struts are a structural part of the suspension it's definitely causing an issue and I'll have to replace them ASAP.

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                  I didn't understand that. Are you sure it's not a ball joint?

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                    Originally posted by BFMRGTX View Post
                    I didn't understand that. Are you sure it's not a ball joint?
                    The bearings, outer tierods, and ball joints are all brand new this year. When checking for loose bearings I noticed that there was some play causing the wheel to change camber under load. It is very slight, but acted much likea loose bearing. I then started looking to see what was moving and what wasn't. The bearings are good as there is no movement between the spindle and the knuckle. The lower strut mount and upper strut mount are both tight...no movement there. The movement is in the strut itself. With the suspension at full droop you can push on the strut (at the red arrow in the picture) right at the top of the strut body and move it inward....causing the strut rod to not line up with the body. I've never seen that happen before. Both front struts are doing this and I'm sure they are in need of replacing. I'm not sure if they are original or not (300,000 miles on the car), but I've owned it for 8 years and I haven't replaced them.




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                      I understand now, thanks. Yeah, I suppose it's time to invest in some good struts. Are the strut hats, and spherical bearings in good condition?

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                        Originally posted by BFMRGTX View Post
                        I understand now, thanks. Yeah, I suppose it's time to invest in some good struts. Are the strut hats, and spherical bearings in good condition?
                        Could be better, but they are functional right now. I'm going to replace the front struts, top hats, and front motor mount when my taxes come back.

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                          installed my $4.95 eeek-bay MBC. had it cranked up too high at first and scared myself so had to turn it down some. now sitting at 9 psi. sweet! it's kinda weird having the turbo spool to a set psi instead of spiking. quicker spool up is nice.

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                            Got my car back last week. New stereo installed (new deck, new JL Audio amp, my original 12" Kenwood sub that was kicking around the garage). Sounds great. Still pissed. Liked to find that guy and bust some teeth.

                            Driver's door hinges got compromised so I'll be looking to replace those because I picked up a whistling-wind noise since my driver's door doesn't seem to shut totally tight anymore. I'll probably get new weatherstripping around the driver's door also.

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                              just put on some new tires last week, Rocking the stock wheels again with new 195/60/14 Cooper tires
                              Looks good and performs better
                              Now on to the other project. Just found a complete turbo at pull and save off of an 89 mx6. Very good shape. Oh and the rear hatch struts

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                                I looked at mine wishing I could drive it


                                today im gonna finish cleaning the motor and prepare for the rebuild

                                Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk
                                1988 323 GTX - "Miss Becky" - VJ-11, Autometer Sport Comp boost gauge, Sachs Clutch, K&N Air Filter. Freshly rebuilt engine with Clevite Bearings, Fel-Pro Gaskets and NGKs, 2.5" Exhaust from turbo back with a Turbo muffler.

                                1970 Chevelle SS - "Krista"/"ALMYDOE" - restored from the ground up, 350/350, lowered 2" frnt 1" rear, flowmaster 40 series, Holley Street Avenger, GMPP intake, American Racing Torqlites. (Ported and Polished ZZ4 Aluminum Heads coming soon)

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