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    #1

    Random Newbie Questions

    1. What's the best way to extract broken valve cover bolts if pliers and vice grips fail to work?

    2. What is the thread/pitch/size of the valve cover bolts on DOHC B-series motors (B6T specifically if it matters)?

    3. Are the VJ11 and VJ14 exhaust manifold to turbo gaskets the same internal size?

    4. To adequately polish exhaust parts after carbon removal and porting, are 320 grit rolls adequate?

    5. Because mine aren't long enough, what's the cheapest/best place to locate 6" shank carbide burs for porting?

    6. If one has a ported and polished exhaust manifold, compressor, and O2 housing, is it worth doing the turbine as well?

    7. Is there any source other than a leaky turbo seal for oil accumulating in the intake system and intercooler?

    Please keep your answers numbered so I can keep track of the information. Thanks very much everyone!
    Tags: None
    #2
    1Torch and penetrating oil.
    2Standard M10
    3I *think* so.
    4Yeah, prolly.
    5Tool town.
    6No. Leave it be.
    7Yep. Bad PVC valve, and/or too much blowby for the system to handle. Although if it's in the IC it's prolly seals. But if it's seals, there should be an epic smoke cloud coming out the tailpipe. Remove the oilfill cap whilst at idle. Feel pressure coming out? Then you have enough blowby to push oil into the intake and it's getting time for rebuild.
    '90 AWD Protege, full GTR drivetrain swap, ~320 whp daily driver, RIP, and
    '90 AWD Protege, yet another GTR swap, Open class rallycar with a Toyota GT4 gearbox swap, thus crossing the line between hobby and mental illness. And a Brabus E55 K8, removing all doubt.
    http://www.wihandyman.com/forum/vbpi...?do=view&g=110
    http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2599486

    Comment

      #3
      7. Worn valve guides, kept me guessing for a while.
      My Hiroshima Screamer

      Comment

        #4
        Originally posted by jay View Post
        1Torch and penetrating oil.
        2Standard M10
        3I *think* so.
        4Yeah, prolly.
        5Tool town.
        6No. Leave it be.
        7Yep. Bad PVC valve, and/or too much blowby for the system to handle. Although if it's in the IC it's prolly seals. But if it's seals, there should be an epic smoke cloud coming out the tailpipe. Remove the oilfill cap whilst at idle. Feel pressure coming out? Then you have enough blowby to push oil into the intake and it's getting time for rebuild.
        Thanks, Jay. I'll give all this a shot. Found some carbide burrs that'll work nicely for porting and I'm going to hunt down a spare turbo.

        Originally posted by 323GTX-RSA View Post
        7. Worn valve guides, kept me guessing for a while.
        Would this lead to oil in the intercooler though? Or just blue smoke? With 3000 miles on my rebuild, I'm skeptical. But I've got a newer high compression ported motor in the works at the moment, so I'll eliminate that concern by spring. Thanks for the input!

        Comment

          #5
          I poured out a lot of oil out of my inter-cooler. Turned out that when I had the head done they messed up the valve guide install they stuffed it up. The car would smoke whatever I tried, finally I saw oil in the inlet and exhaust ports and got a new MX5 head, problem solved. Oh and about 10Kw wheel power as well.
          My Hiroshima Screamer

          Comment

            #6
            Originally posted by 323GTX-RSA View Post
            I poured out a lot of oil out of my inter-cooler. Turned out that when I had the head done they messed up the valve guide install they stuffed it up. The car would smoke whatever I tried, finally I saw oil in the inlet and exhaust ports and got a new MX5 head, problem solved. Oh and about 10Kw wheel power as well.
            I've heard that the Miata automatic exhaust cam is particularly useful, but I suppose it could also be better flowing ports. Are the valves the same size on the two heads?

            Comment

              #7
              Not sure about the valve sizes think they are the same, I used the stock MX5 exhaust cam for a while, and it ran great, the 250 deg one. I had issues with the cam belt pulley so using my stock B6T one until I get that sorted then it is going back in. I here a good mix of cams is 245deg in and 258deg ex on the B6T motor.
              My Hiroshima Screamer

              Comment

                #8
                M6x45mm seems to be the winning ticket for the valve cover bolts. Matches up almost perfectly courtesy of Home Depot.

                Comment

                  #9
                  aw yeah crap m6... sry.
                  '90 AWD Protege, full GTR drivetrain swap, ~320 whp daily driver, RIP, and
                  '90 AWD Protege, yet another GTR swap, Open class rallycar with a Toyota GT4 gearbox swap, thus crossing the line between hobby and mental illness. And a Brabus E55 K8, removing all doubt.
                  http://www.wihandyman.com/forum/vbpi...?do=view&g=110
                  http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2599486

                  Comment

                    #10
                    No problemo! That's what Home Depot is for haha. They have that big bolt/screw/nut compatibility chart.

                    Comment

                      #11
                      Now I need the size of the studs from the exhaust manifold to the turbine on a stock B6T. One of mine was already broken on the spare manifold I purchased. Holes might need re-threading too after extraction, so the thread and pitch would be great if anyone's got them lying around.

                      Comment

                        #12


                        Here are the studs in question. The open hole appears to tap as M8x1.25 and the two studs die at M9x1.25. I still have some repairs and re-tapping to do on the top right hole. Any leads at NAPA or other places to get the missing studs?

                        Comment

                          #13
                          Prettymuch all the threads are 1.25. Napa should have em, if not try Fastenal. I wish to hell Mazda'd used 1.5... I wouldn't spend as much time dealng with crap like this if they had.
                          '90 AWD Protege, full GTR drivetrain swap, ~320 whp daily driver, RIP, and
                          '90 AWD Protege, yet another GTR swap, Open class rallycar with a Toyota GT4 gearbox swap, thus crossing the line between hobby and mental illness. And a Brabus E55 K8, removing all doubt.
                          http://www.wihandyman.com/forum/vbpi...?do=view&g=110
                          http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2599486

                          Comment

                            #14
                            Good to know, Jay! I got the broken bolt piece out and so now I have two studs and two perfectly-threaded M8x1.25's. I think what I'm going to do is to take out the two studs and get four brand new matching ones with some high-quality nuts from NAPA.




                            Any recommendations on getting the old two studs out? Big pipe wrench and some heat/penetrating fluid?

                            Comment

                              #15
                              2 nuts tightened together on the stud and then just unscrew 'em.
                              '90 AWD Protege, full GTR drivetrain swap, ~320 whp daily driver, RIP, and
                              '90 AWD Protege, yet another GTR swap, Open class rallycar with a Toyota GT4 gearbox swap, thus crossing the line between hobby and mental illness. And a Brabus E55 K8, removing all doubt.
                              http://www.wihandyman.com/forum/vbpi...?do=view&g=110
                              http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2599486

                              Comment

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