Hey all - would love some help wiring up a quick release wiring harness for my new gauges to ensure I have decent anti-theft until I bother putting an alarm in. I sourced these parts from a Chinese Ebayer named uustore2011 who has some pretty spiffy stuff, all of which I scored for a grand total of $56.12. Here's what the assembly looks like buttoned up quickly out of the box - boost/vac, voltmeter, and oil pressure:
I'm planning to pop a hole in the back of this unit and use trailer connectors and a barbed fitting for the vacuum line all wrapped up in some wiring loom to keep things pretty and clean. The vacuum line I can handle with a golf tee plug, and trailer plugs are a dime a dozen at the local auto parts stores in a range of gauges and sizes. What makes this process a little bit complicated is that I must account for illumination, illumination grounds, ignition, ground, and sensor wires along with the vacuum hose for the mechanical boost gauge. All of the fittings and wires are designed for 18AWG.
1) The six wires shown are illumination and illumination grounds - can I just merge them into a larger gauge 2-pin connector instead of running six smaller wires through the gauge pod? That'll simplify hooking it up to the dimmer switch or dash lighting harness as well. Something like this perhaps: http://www.picocanada.com/en/product/1878.php.
2) The remaining six pins live on the non-mechanical voltmeter and oil pressure meter. Four are for ignition switch power and grounds, and the last two are the actual signal wires. http://www.picocanada.com/en/product/1879.php.
3) Any reason why a double-ended barbed fitting would be a bad idea for the vacuum line feed's quick disconnect? I don't foresee it being a vacuum leak or anything.
4) Sort of a dumb question, but can someone explain to me the difference between the sensor and ignition switch wires on the voltmeter? I would infer the volt sensor must be always hot and the ignition switch must be self-explanatory.
On the dash side of things, I'll just drill a hole for some wiring loom through the clock delete panel I suppose.
Thanks all,
A
I'm planning to pop a hole in the back of this unit and use trailer connectors and a barbed fitting for the vacuum line all wrapped up in some wiring loom to keep things pretty and clean. The vacuum line I can handle with a golf tee plug, and trailer plugs are a dime a dozen at the local auto parts stores in a range of gauges and sizes. What makes this process a little bit complicated is that I must account for illumination, illumination grounds, ignition, ground, and sensor wires along with the vacuum hose for the mechanical boost gauge. All of the fittings and wires are designed for 18AWG.
1) The six wires shown are illumination and illumination grounds - can I just merge them into a larger gauge 2-pin connector instead of running six smaller wires through the gauge pod? That'll simplify hooking it up to the dimmer switch or dash lighting harness as well. Something like this perhaps: http://www.picocanada.com/en/product/1878.php.
2) The remaining six pins live on the non-mechanical voltmeter and oil pressure meter. Four are for ignition switch power and grounds, and the last two are the actual signal wires. http://www.picocanada.com/en/product/1879.php.
3) Any reason why a double-ended barbed fitting would be a bad idea for the vacuum line feed's quick disconnect? I don't foresee it being a vacuum leak or anything.
4) Sort of a dumb question, but can someone explain to me the difference between the sensor and ignition switch wires on the voltmeter? I would infer the volt sensor must be always hot and the ignition switch must be self-explanatory.
On the dash side of things, I'll just drill a hole for some wiring loom through the clock delete panel I suppose.
Thanks all,
A
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