Originally posted by 808
View Post
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
newb buying a gtx
Collapse
X
-
Originally posted by crazycanadian View Postcrank pully you can't swap.. the problem is such a major problem because its the key way in the crank that gets worn.. the only way to fix it is to replace the crank... you'll have to pull it apart and have a look at the crank..
Comment
-
will this give me everything i need to know?
BF:
- 1988 Mazda 323 Turbo Workshop Manual V1,0 (turbo only)
- Complete 1988 Mazda 323 Rally parts manual
- 1988 Mazda 323 Workshop Manual
BG:
- 1990 EA 4wd Workshop Manual
- 1990 NoAm 4wd Workshop Manual
- 1992 323 GTR Workshop Manual
- 1992 NoAm Protege Workshop Manual
- Engine Assembly
- F5M-R Workshop Manual
Comment
-
The 88 323 workshop manual covers the turbo models only... really all you would need is the BF FSMs.
1988 White GTX - #1 parts
1988 Black GTX - #2 reliably broken touge monstar (294,000 miles no rebuilds) - dead
1988 Blue GTX - #3 in progress (view here)
1988 Blue GTX - #4 BPT swapped weekend warrior.
1988 White GTX - #5 Rally car
Comment
-
Originally posted by 808 View PostThe 88 323 workshop manual covers the turbo models only... really all you would need is the BF FSMs.
Comment
-
Originally posted by BFMRGTX View PostI've looked at the yahoo archives, and there's still some ambiguity on whether or not the B6T crank was forged (and nitride journals), or if they were cast. Either way, just go grab a 27mm crank nose'd crank (and oil pump) and put it in.
Here's some info:
http://www.miata.net/garage/crankshaft.html
Comment
-
Originally posted by BFMRGTX View PostI've looked at the yahoo archives, and there's still some ambiguity on whether or not the B6T crank was forged (and nitride journals), or if they were cast. Either way, just go grab a 27mm crank nose'd crank (and oil pump) and put it in.
Here's some info:
http://www.miata.net/garage/crankshaft.html
Comment
-
as far as the ticking.. my buddy tj who helped me get the block off says the ticking probably would not have come from the small amount of leakage in the valves. meaning we did a water test and 4 of the valves on cylinder 4 leak water, pretty slow but leak. he said im losing compression there but theres not a bent valve that we can see so he thinks it just needs to be cleaned. but if thats not the ticking then could it be the crankshaft or pulley?
Comment
-
IIRC, another way to determine the size w/o removing the crank pulley is to look at the four 10mm bolts and see if they are in a perfect square pattern, which would be indicative of the 27mm crank. A rectangular pattern would be 22mm crank nose (long and short).
Here's some more info (Note that the info also covers 22mm (long and short), 27mm cranks):
Comment
-
Originally posted by g3mccotter View Postas far as the ticking.. my buddy tj who helped me get the block off says the ticking probably would not have come from the small amount of leakage in the valves. meaning we did a water test and 4 of the valves on cylinder 4 leak water, pretty slow but leak. he said im losing compression there but theres not a bent valve that we can see so he thinks it just needs to be cleaned. but if thats not the ticking then could it be the crankshaft or pulley?
Lots of good info on the yahoo forum too.
Yet more info:
Last edited by BFMRGTX; 05-17-2010, 01:19 PM.
Comment
-
Originally posted by BFMRGTX View PostIIRC, another way to determine the size w/o removing the crank pulley is to look at the four 10mm bolts and see if they are in a perfect square pattern, which would be indicative of the 27mm crank. A rectangular pattern would be 22mm crank nose (long and short).
Here's some more info (Note that the info also covers 22mm (long and short), 27mm cranks):
http://www.miata.net/garage/LongNoseRepair/index.html
Originally posted by BFMRGTX View PostHydraulic Lash Adjusters (HLAs) are most likely the culprit. Change the weight of the oil and see what happens. Also might consider flushing the oil system out too (depending on the condition of the oil, age of engine, etc. etc.)
Lots of good info on the yahoo forum too.
Yet more info:
http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=193131
Originally posted by BFMRGTX View PostAlso: Why is this posted in the "Non-US Model" forum?
Comment
-
read through those, makes sense. we were wondering where the shims were to adjust lifters. i dont know if i will take each lifter apart or try the twisty flush deal once its back together or maybe i should get the lifter heat soaked with my block. consist of acids that it sits in over night, one drawback is that i will lose the order they came out in... reading that info is a relief, thats a lot less of a problem than i thought. onto the crank pulley, prob pull it off today check out the bolts replace with loctite and see what happens once the car is running again... need to get my head gasket set now
Comment
Comment