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BG coilover in a BF?

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    #16
    do you know about what they cost?
    '88 GTX

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      #17
      Nope, but they won't bolt up anyhow. Bolt spacing and flange width at the hub is different.
      '90 AWD Protege, full GTR drivetrain swap, ~320 whp daily driver, RIP, and
      '90 AWD Protege, yet another GTR swap, Open class rallycar with a Toyota GT4 gearbox swap, thus crossing the line between hobby and mental illness. And a Brabus E55 K8, removing all doubt.
      http://www.wihandyman.com/forum/vbpi...?do=view&g=110
      http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2599486

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        #18
        Originally posted by jay View Post
        Nope, but they won't bolt up anyhow. Bolt spacing and flange width at the hub is different.
        sorry i as talking about the ones Joshg123 was mentioning
        Last edited by Talkurt; 06-10-2010, 06:25 AM.
        '88 GTX

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          #19
          Nevermind!
          '90 AWD Protege, full GTR drivetrain swap, ~320 whp daily driver, RIP, and
          '90 AWD Protege, yet another GTR swap, Open class rallycar with a Toyota GT4 gearbox swap, thus crossing the line between hobby and mental illness. And a Brabus E55 K8, removing all doubt.
          http://www.wihandyman.com/forum/vbpi...?do=view&g=110
          http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2599486

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            #20
            Hi again people.

            I got a quote from racing logic on 1500 usd incl shipping to me. Would love to order them asap, but i also have to add some import taxes which make the deal rather expensive.

            So now i am looking on my ground control coilovers again. I am thinking that it must be possible to make something decent of of them. especially because the car is for street use only.

            Just to repeat what i have said before. My problem with the GC+oem strut was that the car felt quite bouncy. but maybe that was due to wrong springrate, or because the car was lowered too much?

            any ideas? or positive stories about Ground control setups...?

            Thanks

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              #21
              its probably your struts that are causing most of your bouncing issues...the GCs are a decent kit from what i've heard.

              how old are your struts?

              also another thing you can do to the GC setup is to buy replacement springs @ a different length and spring rate. GC usually come with dinky 6" front springs and 7" rear springs...so i'd change it out to 8" springs and modify your front spring mounts...
              -Jack

              ONTARIO MAZDA CLUB! Join! https://www.facebook.com/groups/500055016671733/

              91 626 LX - basically stock and pretty slow still
              http://www.clubprotege.com/forum/sho...my-GD-626-LX-)

              01 E53 3.0i - FOR SALE! pm if interested

              91 USDM Protege LX - SOLD! turbo/manifold up for sale!
              http://www.clubprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=46606

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                #22
                Originally posted by mazda-dude View Post
                Hi again people.

                I got a quote from racing logic on 1500 usd incl shipping to me. Would love to order them asap, but i also have to add some import taxes which make the deal rather expensive.

                So now i am looking on my ground control coilovers again. I am thinking that it must be possible to make something decent of of them. especially because the car is for street use only.

                Just to repeat what i have said before. My problem with the GC+oem strut was that the car felt quite bouncy. but maybe that was due to wrong springrate, or because the car was lowered too much?

                any ideas? or positive stories about Ground control setups...?

                Thanks
                You are bouncy all because the OEM strut can't handle the stiffer GC springs.. you need to upgrade your struts to something that can handle the stiffer springs....

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                  #23
                  Actually shocks are new.

                  Rear i have red koni inserts which was inserted in the OEM shock housing.Fronts are standard gas oem's. the make is "Gabriel". dont know if it's european?

                  But what i did back then was to make a new "spring holder/cup"(dont know the english word for it), because i have some custom rims which did not allow the oem holder to be there. i placed the new holder a little bit under the stock position in order to be able to lower a little bit more. here is a picture of the custom spring holder:



                  1) where is the best position to place the holder?
                  2) should i go for new springs which is longer maybe stiffer?(I remember chosing some of the softest available)
                  3) When car is jacked up, the whole setup is very loose....the spring can be moved in all directions, is that normal.....i dont think a bit longer springs will fix that?? But i cant image that would ever work in a rally car, going over high jumps
                  4) att: Mazda_Powered, why should my spring mounts be modified if i only change the lenght, and how should they be modified?

                  Thanks

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                    #24
                    Actually the coilovers are like this picture i found: http://img523.imageshack.us/i/cimg0647kw3.jpg/

                    Where the shock piston is longer than the spring, therefor making is all loose when jacked up. compared to stock setup where spring compressors must be used before being able to install the springs. How do i fix this on GC setup?

                    The koni's i have in the rear must be good enough IMO. The stock fronts can be questionable. But people say that i can use BG fronts.

                    So what type of shock should i go for? Either BG og BF

                    thanks

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                      #25
                      Anyone?

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                        #26
                        You pretty much have it correct. I have coilovers on my car, and they sit the same as yours; I do not need a spring compressor to remove them. I don't see how a standard compressor would be able to work on them anyways. Every other example of coilovers on a GTX were the same - the coils just sit there until the suspension loads it. I wouldn't worry about the jumps if your struts are in good shape; they shouldn't rebound that fast. Well, at least I never had that problem...

                        Where you have the spring perch should be fine. There are full-thread bodies out there that can allow adjustment as low as it can (but why? Besides, lowering the GTX has always been limited due to the geometry.), so I guess you shouldn't have to worry. Set the height of the spring perches where you want them, then look at the a-arms and lateral links to make sure that they are not pointed in the wrong direction (outboard ends are pointing up = bad). This will lead to all sorts of scary and frustrating handling characteristics.

                        IIRC, my rallycross setup is 12" front (275lbs) and 10" rear (200lbs). My autocross setup is 10" front (375lbs) and 8" rear (275lbs).

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                          #27
                          Hi

                          the installation is like this:


                          there can also see that no compressor is needed

                          Here are my spring rates:

                          front: GC.180.64.44
                          rear: 0800.250.0200

                          the fronts are 180mm long, 64mm inside diameter and 44 Newtons per meter (250 pounds/ inch)

                          the rears are 8.00 inches long, 2.50 inches inside diameter, and 200 pounds /inch (33 Newtons per meter)

                          What are your opinion to fix the issue? new springs(new rates) or new struts, even though the ones i tried was new(but OEM)?

                          Let me know

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                            #28
                            hmm, what if i buy some pedders short shaft struts together with the red koni's i have i the rear.......wouldnt that be a nice setup, which should be without any problems?

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                              #29
                              I would definitely go with new struts, preferably something that can be rebuilt. It's just my opinion, but I would not go cheap on suspension / handling / braking systems. I know that it may be cost prohibitive, but in the end you will be happy with what you have.

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                                #30
                                Ok thanks

                                but is it then Pedders, or something else? was is there to recommend?

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