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So for the throttle positioning sensor adjustment...the mtx calls for 0.016" feeler gauge then a 0.027" feeler gauge to check for continuity...the atx is 0.010" then 0.016". I know it's the automatic tps which makes me think to use the atx adjustment...but since it's a manual transaxle (even though using an atx tps) do I use the atx settings or the mtx settings? Also when I wired the 4 wire in I spliced it into the vaf wire up by the diagnostics port...so I basically cut the vaf wire in half and had two wires into one ya know? Would this have any affect on it or should I reconnect the vaf wire and run the 4th tps wire all the way to either the vaf or ecu?
Last edited by Redscortgt93; 05-14-2014, 06:12 PM.
Okay so I re-checked the ecu pinout and I did the 2L and 2M swap correctly...here are some picks of how I wired up the 4 wire tps (4th wire). I just tied into the VAF wire at that location in the picture.
It starts up and drives fine besides running rich into boost (I'm thinking maybe a boost leak, I still have to check) but the AFR ratio pegs into the 10's when going into boost and stays there until I let off the throttle. The issue that's really getting under my skin is sometimes the throttle seems to "cut out" and the wideband pegs on the lean side at like 17 afr (at this point I'm not in the throttle) I could be coasting and it'll cut out. It seems electrical to me. I can hit the gas and nothing happens. The rpms do start to drop, but the engine is still running. Then all of a sudden it will kick back into it or it'll continue to stay cut out and die on me. Ill try and get the best video I can of the situation. I tested my TPS sensor and it all checks out from the shop manual tests.
Last edited by Redscortgt93; 05-27-2014, 06:53 PM.
So here's what I got. Red LED and 1kOhm resistor. Wire soldered on negative side and resistor on positive side and length of wire to match negative side. I hope I did it right. This is what I got from the thread you posted Mazda powered. I also soldered the ends slightly to insert in diagnostics port...
I will say my engine ran absolutely fine before this swap and the only wiring of the harness that's been messed with is the TPS so I'm not giving up on that being my problem. I'm gonna undo the splice I have on it and just run a wire all the way to either the ecu or the vaf. Whatdya think? I have a video of the problem but I need a sync cable to put it on the computer. Updates soon.
I'm pretty sure me messing with the throttle plate set screw to adjust idle is what's making it cut out. It ran fine before other than rich into boost. Now since I messed that up it wants to cut out intermittently. The engine stays running when it cuts out and the rpms drop then it kicks back into it and runs fine. This is all at lower speeds like driving around a parking lot...any ideas?
Last edited by Redscortgt93; 06-24-2014, 10:10 PM.
A little bit lol still needs a paint job. I redid the undercarriage and replaced the ebrake cables, and all the brake line to the rear. Replaced all the rear suspension parts. Biggest thing I went megasquirt. Only ms1 some old unit I bought from redheddude. I also bought a transmission with an mfactory LsD from him. I'll post some stuff later.
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