I apologize in advanced, but for the first time I began the progress of putting the car together and although... It is different than the way I have originally planned but I have figured out the way to build it the way I wanted it to be my way with no quarrels. So here goes the first pictures and when any progress comes along I promise you I will post them, So bear with me, it will take probably a year or more. But here is the beginning...
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FE DOHC Going into my second gen EGT, eventually gonna be backed by a Toyota drivetrain AWD, looking for the knuckle assemblies and such for the rear from a protégé or GT-R. Obviously going forced induction, Borg warner turbo with a turbo speed sensor. Forged crank and such, easy finds and surprisingly cheap. Ryans got some goodies on the shelf waiting for my cash money to arrive :-) however I got to get this god awfully no good Nissan done and out of my garage and clear up some work space I hit a snag with it, come to find out the dip**** at the dealership ended up using a hammer and rtv to the water pump and cracked the housing on the inside... WHO DOES THAT?!?! WHY GOD?!?!. Plus I have surgery Monday to get the metal plates removed from my hand can't lift more than 5lbs for two months after that... FML :-/ I also lost half my pinky as a small child and my twin sister is the devil.. Cheers.
Last edited by Pashka0788; 10-09-2014, 03:29 PM.Not What you build, But HOW.
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I think I read something online that the Toyota 4wd gearbox conversion will not work with the FE3 engine as done with the BP engine. If I recall correctly, I think it have to do with the Toyota transfer and the oil pan/crank case mod. The space between the FE3 crank and its oil pan/crank case is closer than the bp engine, so the mod where the bp crank case is cut and modified with the piece weld on the inside of the bp oil pan/crank case, when done to the FE3 will be a lot closer to FE3 crank. How much closer.... I don't know as the write up only ended with "when you look at it you will see what I'm talking about".
I'm not 100% sure if that info is correct as I'm yet to get a chance to look at a FE3 block to confirm what I've read.
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Bit of a background story, got the car for $200 running and driving, My second one so far never have been able to get the damn thing to die for anything, it used to be boosted. Now I am taking her down to build the living bejesus out of it... Thinking close to 500 or more horsepower to all wheels hopefully.Not What you build, But HOW.
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I found where I read the challenge with the fe3 to e series swap. http://www.wihandyman.com/forum/show...nversion/page6
Originally posted by soul View Post1500 rpm power band ??? that was my white wagon ..... was on 24psi by 3500 i was running a gt 3076r with a .63 t3 houseing......... and yes i made the adaptor plate for fe3 to e series but it is not to run 4x4 the fe3 is way to wide in the bottem of the block and it hangs way to low to cut the sump out to make clearance for a transfer ........ its hard to understand its like you can sit the block with a crank in it on the ground with no sump and the crank wont touch the ground.......
Would be great to see that slick trick up your sleeve for that one as I wanted to do a similar 4wd FE3 swap for a project next year.
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Alright so bear with me on this, I will post up my findings for this swap. The reason for not posting it now is to make sure I am not wasting anyone elses time nor money saying "it will work" kind of thing. I got some time to waste but I will be doing the Toyota gearbox conversion either way, Just having a hell of a time finding the proper transfer case for the specific gearing, haven't done all the math yet... But give me a few minutes to find all the links set up the initial "plan" on how I figure I am going to make this happen. Not to mention I have no idea how much power the transfer case I do want to install can take let alone the abuse.Not What you build, But HOW.
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This be the much love E series Toyota transmission
These next two are with the alltrac st185 tranfercase that we have to cut into our oil pans to allow them to work with our systems
Toyota rav4 transmission 01-05
The much smaller tcase from the 01-05 rav4
Pictures courtesy of http://www.scionlife.com/forums/scio...-126176/page4/
I went through and read a bunch of articles of the awd 5spd rav4's and found it does in fact splits power between all wheels at all times.
Now to find the specific pair of T-case and rear diff with the right gearing and not all came with the torsen locking rear diff, but I am trying my best, finding the FE shortblock at $150 was a steal and sourcing parts from here on forth for the FE will be farly simply the sportages are all over the place. Finding everything as far as Toyota parts in this area is quite the pain in the ass... But if ya'll want all the articles I can link them if you would like, and like I said I have no idea how much abuse this setup can take yet. I don't want you to waste your time if this wont work and it is definitely not as easy as it seems in order for the rav4 tcase to bolt in if I remember correctly you have to take the final drive out of the transmission as well...Not What you build, But HOW.
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Project on hold for awhile, had the pins and plates removed from my hand, they were causing issues of pain, swelling and cutting the inside of my hand. Yeehaw!!! Had it all removed so for the next couple of month I am not allowed to lift more than 5lbs with my right hand, Talk about dissapointments. :-/Not What you build, But HOW.
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