is there any tips and tricks on how to replace the water pump and timing belt and i want to repalce the head gasket to while im at it..and whats stuff so i have to putt between the gaskets and the actual stuff..i heard just silicone works the best?? i dunno it would be my first time going into an engine
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water pump/timing belt
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than it seems u don't know what ur getting ur self in to.
timing belt water pump head gasket92 Mazda MX-3 (2120lbs) (12.4@118@18psi)1.8 DOHC ,Eletromotive TEC II Standalone System, Turbo Ric Project Turbo Kit, Custom intake manifold 80MM Mustang TB, PT67 P-TRIM TURBO, Custom turbo manifold, 3 in. down pipe, Innovate wideband, 1000cc RC Injecters,walbro 255, custom fuel rail, Areomotive FPR, MSD wires, NGK V-Power R5671A-8 plugs, 31 1/2" L x 10 5/8" H x 3 1/2" D Percision Turbo 750HP FMIC , 2.5in intercooler piping, Tial wastegate/BOV, Unrothdox UDP, KIA G-series trans, ACT 6 puck extreme clutch,(Need a twin disc) 30psi guage&10,000RPM tach (autometer)(EQUUS guages), NO I DON'T HAVE A BPT I HAVE A REUGLAR BP-DE. (updated)
Otherwise known as LIMEGREEN MX-3
12 sec MX-3TURBO RIC PROJECT MX-3
http://www.mx-3.com/phpbb2/viewtopic.php?t=59746
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http://www.mx-3.com/phpbb2/viewtopic.php?t=56488
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the headgasket isnt something you usually replace unless it has failed, unless you're rebuilding the motorEscort GTR -- 11.87 @ 117.6 mph -- 320 HP / 325 Ft. Lbs. @ 23 PSI
... The first FWD BG with a Toyota E153 transmission conversion in the USA!
Looking for BP x Toyota E153 adapter plates? PM me or contact me on Facebook: Riel Performance Parts
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well there was like 4-6 drip marks/lines from where something leaked out from underneath the valve cover..so i was told to replace that..i was told that.so yea..im just looking for advice i already have the water pump and timing belt.
I'm probably going to go back to the shop and get the pulleys to.. but yea i was wondering what stuff do i put between the water pump and the gaskets..b/c i am paying my coworkers bf $100 to do it for me but i have to get all the parts so i was wondering what stuff do i have to get b/c i cant find his number and call him so yea and he is a licensed mechanic too thats why.but i don't know what else i have to get
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the best gasket sealer is what is called guerilla snot. it is yellow silicone, with of course a guerilla on the front of the tube. do not replace the pulleys. no need. i would not shun you away from replacing the two tensioners though. one is a sliding tensioner and the other stay in place with a bolt. head gasket, only if you know it has not been done in the last 90 to 120k. but with a head gasket job. will need torque specs if you do not use them can damage the head or other parts. make sure you take the head to be milled also. if it is warped at all. will be replacing the gasket again. or worst have over heating problems etc... make sure to scrape all of old gasket off on any and all surfaces. use the spider tight down method on eveything. to even the tighteness. or could cause the gasket not to seal. order all your hardware especially your water pump bolts in case of diff. sizes do not want to mix that up. timimg is easy. looking at the motor from cams side. you will see E and I on the cams. with the 1.8 engine, the cams do not move on you unless you move them. so make sure timing is in. then take old belt off. your manuel will tell you how to time. real easy the cams sit in place on their own. really only have to worry about lining up the crank. which is easy. if you take the underdrive off there is a black gear looking thing behind it with two white dots just make sure they are even with the oil pan lines sitting at 3 and 9 oclock ruffly. a little titled but you will get the idea. if car runs good. it is allready in good timimg so just to to check before taking old belt off. put it at TDC. if does need adj. you have a non- interference motor so can turn cams, or crank with no belt with out hurting your valves in the head. no need to let the silicone dry on your water pump gasket. by the time done puting car back together will be dry already. lol. and sorry if you can not understand this very well. it is just easy so do not know what kind of explaination you need. if you have and car sense you will figureit out. remember best way to learn how to work on cars is just by attempting. if break something keep at fix until you understand and get it right. dont get frustrated working on cars is not easy. well not all of it anyway. takes practice. i learned by trying to do everything myself. and now i am a ASE certified mechanic at firestone. only been working on cars for a couple of years. so you pick up quick.
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Why didn't you get a timing kit... comes with a belt and the tensioner and the idler. Change your acccessory belts too.
High temperature silicone is all you need.
JoN - Automotive Machinist Journeyman/Refrigeration Mechanic Journeyman
Member of MX-3.com
1996 Mazda MX-3 RS - Creek Blue Mica
1993 Mazda MX-3 GS SE - Raspberry... RIP
Racing BP (Project "Blue" Marlin)... Twin Scroll GT3071R, breaking 30psi at the moment!
"Do it ONCE, do it RIGHT!"
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Originally posted by Empire932 View Postwell there was like 4-6 drip marks/lines from where something leaked out from underneath the valve cover..so i was told to replace that
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Originally posted by Empire932 View Posti was going to pay him but now he wants $350 to replace the timing belt and water pump..i'll prob do it myself. i like working on my own things..but im just a lil lost..do i need any special tools?? or any toold that would help alot b/c i want to get everything before i start
You really should just get a Haynes or Chilton manual from your local auto parts store. This job does not require a shop manual since I've always done it with those manuals. This job isn't hard. It's just annoying and tedious due to the horrible space constraints. They add loads to the time and work.
Basic tools are used. Have the standard sockets(short & long), extenders. One note, to take the crankshaft pulley off, you will need a large, non-standard socket. I forgot the size but someone here will tell you. Just put a 1/2 inch breaker bar with that socket on the floor and turn the engine on for a flash moment. That will remove the bolt that's next to impossible to take off by hand.
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wow thats a good idea..that is really good...but how would you put it on??
and breaker bar?? i took auto class awhile back but just blanked out its at the tip of my tounge.lol..
and i do need a torque wrench right?
and yea im going to cash my check tomorrow. and then order the book sence they prob wont have it.. and btw thank you so much youve been soo helpfull.
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Your welcome. Just tighten it up as much as you physically can. Remember, the pulley turns in the tightening direction so there's no chance of it coming off. I've done it like that before and it was just as difficult to take off the next time around. I know it's best to use a torque wrench but, in that area, I never have. It's more important to use a torque wrench on the engine, itself, or on suspension parts where you don't want your wheel coming off while driving. You know what I mean? You'd better hurry up. You guys up there have to start worrying about not being able to work on your cars after it gets too cold. A breaker bar is, well, imagine a regular ratchet wrench but no ratchet at the top and much longer and thicker. You can buy any cheap 1/2 inch breaker bar. Here's a picture:Last edited by mannydingo; 12-14-2007, 11:50 PM.
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before it gets too cold? we got 8 inches of snow the other day, and another 6-10 coming on sunday... LOLEscort GTR -- 11.87 @ 117.6 mph -- 320 HP / 325 Ft. Lbs. @ 23 PSI
... The first FWD BG with a Toyota E153 transmission conversion in the USA!
Looking for BP x Toyota E153 adapter plates? PM me or contact me on Facebook: Riel Performance Parts
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Originally posted by therieldeal View Postbefore it gets too cold? we got 8 inches of snow the other day, and another 6-10 coming on sunday... LOL
I'm a real stinker, ain't I?
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