Need help with my bike

[Turpro]

Oriaginal post from yesterday on another forum
So here's the info ii have

Battery 3-4yrs old
Charge 24 hrs I can ride it for about 3-4 hrs then she'll die at stop lights if I don't keep the reving it.

I'm thinkin its the battery because its old but my bud says it may be the stator. Then after doing a litte google search(which brought me to you guys) I heard a lot of this could be a regulator? Previou owner said he had a voltage regulator put in last yr but idk if that's what I've been readin about. The regulator I'm refering to is called RR for short by some people.

I bought a fsm(must have for any vehicle I buy) so I'll be checking some things out but I figured id ask you guys what your thoughts are. If I throw the charger on it in 24hrs I can ride and not have to worry about it for a few days as I don't ride everyday and I only ride for maybe an hr or so a day

new post
Ok really neeed help now. Look what I found





Now I did all the tests according to the fsm and everything checked out fine. Only problem was the 2 yello wires(burnt 1s). When I probed those 2 wires just a little back on the harnessthe reading were right.

What could cause this? What should I do about this(besides cutting the connector off and redoing the wires)?

[FE3-323]

well if your getting the proper output on the 3 yellows (AC stator power) during both key on bike off/ bike running then replace the rectifier. (green=ground) (red=out put DC battery power)

[FE3-323]

i highly reccomend cutting back those wires & resplicing in a new connector

[SgtRauksauff]

FYI, RR = Regulator/Rectifier.

in cars, the "alternator" has the stator, rotor, regulator, and rectifier built in usually. On bikes, there's not a separate chunk being driven by a belt. The stator (as in STATionary) is usually fixed in the crankcse, and the rotor (as in ROTating) is driven by or attached to the crankshaft. The rectifier turns alternating current into direct current, and the regulator makes sure it stays within parameters for the electrical system.


I'd check for shorts, or for extra load. Did someone try to add bigger lights, or HIDs, or some other nonsense to cause extra load that would heat up the wires?


Oh, and I'm not sure what kind of bike you have, but regardless, do a search for "the stator papers" and give them a read. Good resource for any type of bike, although these were written with Suzuki GS models in mind. There's a really good troubleshooting section in there too, I think Part IV.

Here's an excerpt:

The molten connector is clear evidence of a job screwed up. Connectors don't melt if you don't heat them. The heat sink equipped device would almost certainly be your regulator/rectifier. The fact that this connector is molten may indicate that:

your regulator/rectifier has died;
there is a wiring problem somewhere, meaning a conductivity problem or shortage.

Mind you, this is not an exclusive OR, it's very likely that both problems exist. Most any charging problem starts with defective wiring, and then one by one the expensive components start to fail. That's usually when you find out something is wrong. But do not make the common mistake of replacing the faulty component and leave it at that!

--sarge

[Turpro]

Been doing alot of researching and found out that the f2 and f3(mine) had this problem a lot. The regulator is crap and a lot of the times ppl buy a new one and within a few days its dead again. Damn hondas bs charging system.

So dug deeper and found I can do some upgrading and ppl run the 2003-2004 gsxr 1000 rr and have never had another problem. So I'm in takes with a local bike forum guy about grabbing one of his. Pretty simple upgrade. Splice the connector off and solder in the wires. Hard to fk up

[Turpro]

Here's the how to thread I found after finding other ppls thread with burnt up connectors

http://cbrforum.com/forum/f2-tech-93/regulator-rectifier-r-r-problem-solved-27739/

[FE3-323]

Do et!!!!

[XelderX]

Crappy regulator/rectifiers were also a problem on the older VFRs. I was about to put money on the R/R going out, but I can't recall ever seeing one burn the connector like that. Glad you found a fix for it. I loved the G00F 3 (haven't used that term in a long time) front end I put on my old Hawk GT.