Originally posted by loganss
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
How do you come to a stop in a manual?
Collapse
X
-
it all depends on how Im driving...If I am just cruising around town or driving to the store or whatever, I just shift into neutral and hit the brakes.....
If I am autox'ing or some sort of competitive racing, I rev-match then downshift to keep my brakes from getting to hot. Only use the brakes when needed...Eat ****.
Comment
-
I usually just throw it in neutral and hit the brakes. In NH, it is illegal to sit at a red light with the car in neutral. Its habit for me to do that....its how I was taught to drive. It puts double the wear on the throwout bearing if you keep the clutch depressed when you don't have to. When I was taking my driver's test to get my liscense, the guy from the DMV had to tell me three times to put the car in gear at the lights and stop signs.
Comment
-
Originally posted by lscrxI just keep it in whatever gear it's in while applying the brakes... and put the clutch after i've slowed. I only downshift if i'm anticipating the light to change... in which case I keep it in whatever gear will get me the most oomph for my RPM's so that I can squirt through the light if it does change
Same here1991 Protege LX with GTX swap, DD1990 4WD Protege with GTX swap, Project/garage decoration2006 Mazda 3 with 2.3, Her car1980 Ford F100 Short bed with 300ci 6 cylinder, work truck/home for moss
Comment
-
I also just keep it in gear then push in the clutch when I feel like it. If I feel that the light might change, I shift to whatever gear is necessary within the distance I have from my car to the light(or people in front of me) in relation to my speed. I don't let out the clutch though until I'm sure I'm not going to stop.
1994 Protege BP-Turbo.....1994 Miata Supercharged.....2003 Protege5 stock DD.....1988 323 GT Turbo
On the road soon: 2003 Protege5 V6 swap
My vB Gallery - Full Information and Photos of My Mazdas
Comment
-
If I know I'm going to a complete stop I pop it into neutral.
But if I'm just slowing for a hard corner, driving aggressively, or the light changed I move my heel over give the throttle a blip and downshift.
And like pigeon said NEVER downshift to first.
94 Protege LX: HX-35, Megasquit, ect...
98 Subaru Legacy GT-DD: 1 inch lift, and all the standard N/A stuff.
Comment
-
I neutral up, then brake. If a light changes on me as I approach, I'll tap the throttle and choose an appropriate gear based on vehicle speed so the engine doesn't take a sudden beating when I gently let the clutch out.
Technically, they want you to down shift and let the clutch out in every gear working down until you get to low second, where you stop and slip it into first. I think the law wants the car to be in some gear at all times so that the driver has constant control in the case of an unexpected occurance. This is a similar reason to that of a race driver wanting the engine engaged as much as possible to allow proper throttle application smoothly wherever he is on the track. The thing is I don't race my car and I have the responsibility of maintaining my car so f^(k the law.
Common sense applies... I figure just drive defensively, space my car properly away from other cars, pay attention and it shouldn't realy matter how I do it. I don't like the idea of opposing my ****ty Z5 with the brakes when I can just use neutral.1998 Mazda BHALP SE - Rain Forest Green Mica
Pacesetter short shifter ; Depo tails (thanks beetle_orange) ; Custom CAI nearing completion ; CF hood on the way ; Brembo blanks & KVR pads to be inst. (thanks Pigeon) ; Goodridge brake lines to be inst. ;
Much more to come...
Comment
-
Originally posted by midnightblue97Depends on the situation.
Comment
-
Well w/o reading everyting above:
I tend to do 1 of either of these 2 methods depending on circumstances.
1. Go to N, and use the brakes. If it is not an emergency, and I need to stop at my own pace, then I do this. When I am approaching a light really slow, then I will just do this. My whole point in stage 1 is that I rather burn more brake pads that add stress on my dum tranny.
2. I will go down the gear that is warranted due to the speed that I am driving. I tend to use this method in emergency situations, or when I was driving at a slightly high rate of speed(allegedly) . At this point I could give two ****s about my tranny or brakes becuase my main objective is to stop the car.
IMO, at the T/P/O the choice is really up to you on what you will do. You have to do what you feel is adequate to bring the car under control.
Comment
-
I always downshift from any gear when slowing down (while applying brakes) until i reach the end of second where the rpms are around like...1000....then i just hold the clutch and glide to a stop.....my car doesnt like down shifting into first...and when it does u can hear the synchro go wrrrRRRR and then it pops in.....but the car either starts bucking if i try to speed up or im allready at like...5 mph so its pointless
to me first gear is for accelerating from a stop only....bumper to bumper isnt so bad though....1991 Mazda protege DX (SOHC) 5spd
Short ram cold air
stock muffler back on
NGK plugs
14inch miata steelies w/toyo proxes p185/60r14 82H - back
13inch protege steelies w/toyo proxes S rated - front
stripped a/c
1993 saab 9000cse turbo 5/spd
Garrett TB-25, solenoid cut off at 17psi
Gutted cat w/borla muffler
Aero spec clutch (7k miles old)
Running 5w20 full synthetic...(241,***)
16inch Aero rims
Aero Moldings
Bridgestone Potenza 205/55VR16 91V - all 4
Comment
-
Originally posted by pigeoni downshift and revmatch... but never to first
everOriginally posted by lscrxI just keep it in whatever gear it's in while applying the brakes... and put the clutch after i've slowed. I only downshift if i'm anticipating the light to change... in which case I keep it in whatever gear will get me the most oomph for my RPM's so that I can squirt through the light if it does changeLast edited by Turpro; 01-21-2006, 01:30 PM.1993 Protege LX-Midnight's shadow SOLD
1996 Honda CBR600-Wrecked. Damn Honda crippled me
2002 mazda MPV-family truckster SOLD
2010 VW routon
Originally posted by jay.....they totally underestimated the number of gearheads such as myself that have families but refuse to grow the hell up and stop playing with cars, or that otherwise see the utility of having 4 doors. Obviously I ain't alone, as there are a helluva lotta sti and evo here. Bueler? Beuler? Mazda? Mazda?
Comment
-
Originally posted by turproalso add that if are to come to a complete stop wait(in gear)until the rpm's drop to idle range(700-750). then hit the clutch.or if the light changes before you get to it find the right gear for the speed your doing.(revmatch) If you know how to properly use your trannie you can accualy shift without using your clutch. the only time you need your clutch is to start from 1st.I drive semis for a living and thats how i drive my big truck and my car. shifting without a clutch is tricky at first but once you get use to it you'll be able to float those gears right in without grindage.
I've driven an Eaton Fuller before. They're designed to be shifted without the clutch as are all those trannies.
Our cars are not.
THough I admit that on many occasions I have infact shifted without the clutch on my pro. Lately though I can only seem to upshift from 1-2 and 3-4 and downshift from 5-4 and 3-2 without grinding.Ryan The middle child is always ignored
BP powered 97LX Touring Edition
Vibrant strut tower brace, KVR front brake pads, Tungsram Megalicht H4 headlight bulbs, Phillips Halogen H3 foglight bulbs.... 91 GT rims w/ 195 60 14 Yokohomo Mirada GTX sport
Comment
Comment