1st Gens 1990 4WD work log

[1st Gen]

Pics of under the back of the car

I need to replace the rear brake lines since they're both dripping. I'll tighten them both down another 1/8 turn to see if that solves the problem first. I also need to get that LSD changed out before I get the exhaust work done. It just seems like it would be easier. If I can just loosen all the bolts and have it drop out then no prob. If I have to take the axles out, then it's a bit more of a job.

[FE3-323]

snug up the bolt a little more & see what happens. i've had similar issues with SS lines. buggers need to be tight!

[1st Gen]

snug up the bolt a little more & see what happens. i've had similar issues with SS lines. buggers need to be tight!

I can't forget to do this.

I started it up again today with the spare cluster but the heat gauge still didn't work. I let it run for what I thought was a regular warm up period but got nothing. I'm going to trace the wire next, or just run a separate wire along the length of the harness. Not sure yet.

There was some funky noise coming from the accessories so I took the belt off the power steering pump and all was good. No fluid makes for a noisy sounding hydrolic pump.

The engine sounds like sweet music now.

I also bought some 3/4" weather stripping and isolated the radiator from all metal contacts. I took the tranny cooler off too. It was so noisy that it had to be on it's last legs. The circuit pulled so much juice when I jumped it that it almost melted the wire I used.

Without a functioning power steering rack, there's no point having the pump and hoses cluttering up my engine bay. I'm not sure the best way to loop the hoses but I suppose I'll be doing that soon.

I still have the boost gauge regulator to install, as well as a ton of interior work. It's going to be time to put the front back together soon so I should check all the lights and make sure they work.

[FE3-323]

just loop the line pieces @ the fittings & pull the rest out

[1st Gen]

Took a good look at the dash cluster wires but don't really see any signs of tampering. I'll have to mull this over some more.

Tried to loosen the fittings on the steering rack but don't have a wrench big enough. I can't find my big crescent either

Went to NAPA to buy some exhaust parts since it's employee price Saturday and all I was able to walk out with was some straight pieces. I'm done with those guys.

Went to the used tool store and bought some more 14mm wrenches. I must have a fetish for them because I have 5 now. The tool I went there to get, something to loosen the fittings on the steering rack with, I didn't get.

I did have some good luck at the coffee pot. Maybe I'll takes some pics of how to make coffee. That seems to be all I'm going to get done today.
I just can't seem to get any momentum up.

[Mazda_Powered]

nothing like a good pot of coffee to start the days frustrations lol.

don't sweat it man lol

[1st Gen]

don't sweat it man lol

Good advice. You want a 14mm end wrench? I have plenty.

[FE3-323]

trace the wire for the temp cluster. & touch it to ground. see if the cluster needle actually moves. if not then you know your problem right away

[1st Gen]

trace the wire for the temp cluster. & touch it to ground. see if the cluster needle actually moves. if not then you know your problem right away

Did this and i get the same reverse movement. I'm going to try and switch the wires in the plug and see what happens.

I'm out in the car with the ol lady's laptop. Fricken awkward, but cool.

[FE3-323]

well @ least u know the guage is okay.

[1st Gen]

this is kind of huge actually. thanks

[FE3-323]

^ thats what she said

[1st Gen]

I'm going to give it a rest for tonight. I'm getting tired and I can't seem to figure anything out. It turns out just switching the wires isn't as easy as I first thought. I think there is a common ground for several circuits.

[SgtRauksauff]

there's a bunch of grounds in there, that are in some wierd tentacular fashion going back and forth through the different routings of the circuits.

I just went through a deal with my temp guage this past week myself. Do you have the right temperature sensor? With the wire grounded, the needle should spike to max hot. with it open, it's dead cold.

Is there an air pocket so the sensor isn't reading right?

you've got a copy of the FSM, right? check the instrument cluster section. To test it "properly" you'll probably need to get some resistors.

If you don't have the FSM, just go to sharkpork dot com and click the fsm link. Interestingly enough, it looks like there's about a 4 ohm difference between the w/tachometer gauge, and the w/o tachometer gauge.

Maybe it's time to change over to a different gauge, with actual degree markings instead of just a C/H....

[1st Gen]

It's funny you should mention the temp sensor. I know that the circuit is complete because I grounded it and got the same backward action that I was getting when the engine was warming up. I'm starting to wonder if the sensor is wrong, but how could a wrong sensor make a gauge go the wrong way if it only has one wire going to it?

Thanks for the heads up about Sharkport dot com. I'll look into it.

The dash lights are a mystery too. I'm starting to wonder if my cluster meets muster.
What I did yesterday.

http://www.grandprixforums.net/tune-up-05-grand-prix-3800-iii-42325.html#post507402