wish i could dive my hands into that thing. something is seriously amiss.
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1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi
I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it
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Here's my current state. Still have to rotate the distributor to get it to crank, then turn it back for it to idle.... then it dies.
(the battery was low)
How did I go from this \/ to this /\??
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it dying in the video sounds like a vacuum leak/bad vaf caused it.---Has ClubProtege helped you in someway? show your support by Contributing--- Click Here---
1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi
I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it
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If I remember correctly you tried the following:
New disty
New VAF
Triple checked the timing belt.
Do you have a timing light?
Did you try a different ECU?
Sorry if you have already mentioned it it was a long thread.92 Mazda MX3 GS> For sale, $1750 OBO
94 Escort wagon--BP swap coming, VF10 Turbo, COP, EVO ECU, 03 ZX2 front end conversion
"Hold yourself accountable before you are held accountable"
EV14 330cc@3Bar injector kits available.
EV14 GT500 injector kits available for the BP. 610cc@3Bar.
EV14 925cc@3Bar injector kits available
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FS Forged H beam rods awaiting test fit
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FE3 Forged H beam rods coming soon
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Originally posted by 300zxrb26dett View PostIf I remember correctly you tried the following:
New disty
New VAF
Triple checked the timing belt.
Do you have a timing light?
Did you try a different ECU?
Sorry if you have already mentioned it it was a long thread.
I got my rocketman outlet installed today (thanks therieldeal!). I tried a bp10 ecu, still the same.
Today I put all the vacuum lines I modified back to stock. I took my supra bypass valve off and taped over the inlet and outlet holes in my pipes. I put my old distributor back on. The stock O2 sensor was on. I adjusted the B code vaf to where it was set when I opened it.
With the old distributor back on, I have to rotate it toward the firewall to get it to start (I tried to read it and I think it's about 16-18deg. With the new distributor, I have to rotate it toward the radiator to get it to start. With either distributor, it will not stay running in those positions and I have to return it back to where it's supposed to be (~12-14).
This picture shows where it starts (top line) and where it runs (bottom line, ~12deg) on the old distributor.
I put the old distributor on and I'm having an easier time with than with the new distributor.
The engine was dying (see previous video), but it doesn't die with the bypass valve removed. I can't blow air through the valve, but maybe it's bad? I'm going to look into buying another one.
I put my wideband back on, bp26 ecu, got it started, rotated the old distributor forward as shown in the pic above, adjusted the VAF a bit, and it runs without dying. It starts easier when it is warm, but it still will not start without rotating the distributor toward the firewall. The video below is of it running. When the air/fuel ratio starts to move is when I started adjusting the VAF one way then the other. You'll notice a weird misfire? backfire?.. It jumps lean when it happens... I have no idea what could be causing this.
Any ideas regarding why I have to mess with distributor or this misfire?
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your idle afr should be bouncing back and fourth around 14.7. Its closest at 1:00 in the vid. Have you checked the coolant temp sensor for the ecu at the back of the head by the thermostat? Did you try putting the wires you swapped at the ecu back to stock? Disty issue, I have no idea..
Did your car run fine before you started swapping to turbo? I hate to say it, but Id take everything back to 100% stock before anything was touched and see if it even runs right then.
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Originally posted by 92dx View Postyour idle afr should be bouncing back and fourth around 14.7. Its closest at 1:00 in the vid. Have you checked the coolant temp sensor for the ecu at the back of the head by the thermostat? Did you try putting the wires you swapped at the ecu back to stock? Disty issue, I have no idea..
Did your car run fine before you started swapping to turbo? I hate to say it, but Id take everything back to 100% stock before anything was touched and see if it even runs right then.
I haven't tried moving the wires back on the ECU.
The thing is, it ran fine with the turbo until it all of a sudden decided to become possessed.
I set my idle afr to about 14.7, set the timing where it cranks and runs and went for a drive. It was an experience in more ways than one.
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did fixing the boost leaks make any kind of change in the scenario??---Has ClubProtege helped you in someway? show your support by Contributing--- Click Here---
1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi
I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it
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Originally posted by FE3-323 View Postdid fixing the boost leaks make any kind of change in the scenario??
It did improve driveability and the hiccups.
I still have the distributor all the way advanced for it to start and run. Retarding the timing back toward ~14 leads to knocking. Something's weird. I don't know that the timing is actually as advanced as it says it is. It's weird.
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