The Stock bushings that supports the clutch pin is bad, it wears out and will allow the pin to then eat into the pedal.
This bushing is less than 5 months old.
There is no real fix for the wallered out pedal once it happens other than trying to weld material and make it perfectly circular again.
Well here is a solution.
You will need
10,12,14mm wrenches ratcheting preferred.
22mm OD 8mm ID skateboard bearings 608-2rs worked and are cheap
A way to make a 22mm hole in the pedal, it is very hard. I used carbide.
A way to affix the bearing to the pedal, I originally wanted to press it in. Then resorted to welding it. You shouldn't use JB weld.
If you don't have a spare pedal, set your clutch pedal free play perfectly before you begin. This will make it easier to adjust the push rod at the end as you know how much play the pedal should have exactly. Look in the FSM for this procedure.
I cut a ~21.5mm hole and reamed it out to 21.7mm. Which should of been close enough to press. It sheared the outer casing of the bearing. And made the fit far too loose.
I then tried JB weld. Don't bother.
Pressing the center pin in and out a few times loosened it up. It is not worth the effort.
I then fired up the $80 harbor freight welder because it was the only thing with wire in it. If you're using that POS the settings are HIGH and full speed. Nothing else will cut it. Make sure you can remove both sides of the bearing shield after welding. I re-greased the bearing with moly chassis grease after the abuse.
Make sure the bearing rotates smoothly after your chosen attachment method.
Paint over the exposed metal from welding.
Honestly I would outsource the entire hole/pressing if you have a friendly machine shop. I was quoted a F-off price.
I didn't attempt to make this look good, I do not care. It is important you don't have any hemorrhoid welds in the Range of motion RED or the install path GREEN.
You should do all your test fitting off the car. The Rod bracket does need a bit of persuading to go around the bearing the first time.
Just remember that the pin should install easily between the two sides of the fork.
Nice and swood
Clean up the bolt pivot bushings while you are here. Also try to source the larger bushings.
I believe I posted about the model to grab these from a few years ago.
If you really hate yourself you can get a nyloc nut for the pedal and make install much worse, but never have to worry about it loosening.
IIRC it is m12x1.25.
Here is the factory clutch spring setup.
You will forget.
You may need to choke up fully on the rod adjustment to get it to install. I did.
Here is how I drive the pin in. I use a pry-bar against the steering column catch as a pivot. It pops in really easy.
I put about 25miles on it tonight while trying to find a gas station that doesn't have a 1970's line out in front.
The pedal feels great. It was worth cracking my phone for;almost.The loudest part of the pedal operation is now the clutch engagement switch.There is more than enough thread engagement on the push rod despite the pin center being about 2mm from the factory position. I am not concerned about the bearing failing. This is a lifetime fix to a problem everyone will have in some fashion.
If you would like to contribute to my new screen fund kick me a few bucks on paypal mtthwhllnd A T gmail.com
Or donate to the site.
This bushing is less than 5 months old.
There is no real fix for the wallered out pedal once it happens other than trying to weld material and make it perfectly circular again.
Well here is a solution.
You will need
10,12,14mm wrenches ratcheting preferred.
22mm OD 8mm ID skateboard bearings 608-2rs worked and are cheap
A way to make a 22mm hole in the pedal, it is very hard. I used carbide.
A way to affix the bearing to the pedal, I originally wanted to press it in. Then resorted to welding it. You shouldn't use JB weld.
If you don't have a spare pedal, set your clutch pedal free play perfectly before you begin. This will make it easier to adjust the push rod at the end as you know how much play the pedal should have exactly. Look in the FSM for this procedure.
I cut a ~21.5mm hole and reamed it out to 21.7mm. Which should of been close enough to press. It sheared the outer casing of the bearing. And made the fit far too loose.
I then tried JB weld. Don't bother.
Pressing the center pin in and out a few times loosened it up. It is not worth the effort.
I then fired up the $80 harbor freight welder because it was the only thing with wire in it. If you're using that POS the settings are HIGH and full speed. Nothing else will cut it. Make sure you can remove both sides of the bearing shield after welding. I re-greased the bearing with moly chassis grease after the abuse.
Make sure the bearing rotates smoothly after your chosen attachment method.
Paint over the exposed metal from welding.
Honestly I would outsource the entire hole/pressing if you have a friendly machine shop. I was quoted a F-off price.
I didn't attempt to make this look good, I do not care. It is important you don't have any hemorrhoid welds in the Range of motion RED or the install path GREEN.
You should do all your test fitting off the car. The Rod bracket does need a bit of persuading to go around the bearing the first time.
Just remember that the pin should install easily between the two sides of the fork.
Nice and swood
Clean up the bolt pivot bushings while you are here. Also try to source the larger bushings.
I believe I posted about the model to grab these from a few years ago.
If you really hate yourself you can get a nyloc nut for the pedal and make install much worse, but never have to worry about it loosening.
IIRC it is m12x1.25.
Here is the factory clutch spring setup.
You will forget.
You may need to choke up fully on the rod adjustment to get it to install. I did.
Here is how I drive the pin in. I use a pry-bar against the steering column catch as a pivot. It pops in really easy.
I put about 25miles on it tonight while trying to find a gas station that doesn't have a 1970's line out in front.
The pedal feels great. It was worth cracking my phone for;almost.The loudest part of the pedal operation is now the clutch engagement switch.There is more than enough thread engagement on the push rod despite the pin center being about 2mm from the factory position. I am not concerned about the bearing failing. This is a lifetime fix to a problem everyone will have in some fashion.
If you would like to contribute to my new screen fund kick me a few bucks on paypal mtthwhllnd A T gmail.com
Or donate to the site.
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